steering

Tie Rod Assembly

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replacement of an outer tie rod end (tie rod assembly) on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. This is a steering-critical front suspension job requiring a four-wheel alignment afterward.

Warnings

⚠️Steering tie rod is a safety-critical component. Incorrect torque, missing cotter pin, or improper alignment can cause loss of steering control.

⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. The vehicle's HV battery floor adds significant weight — use rated jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points only.

⚠Do not jack or place stands on the HV battery enclosure or pinch welds without Tesla pucks. Damage to the battery case is catastrophic and not user-serviceable.

⚠A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair. Do not return the vehicle to service until alignment is verified — toe error will cause rapid tire wear and pull.

ℹ️Aluminum and hybrid steel/aluminum body — do not strike suspension components with a steel hammer against body structure. Use a brass drift or dead-blow if persuasion is needed.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV curb weight ~4,050 lb)Essential

Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (to protect battery floor)Essential

Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20-150 Nm range)Essential

Metric socket and wrench setEssential

Tie rod end puller / pickle fork (puller preferred to preserve boot)Essential

Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential

Caliper or thread-marking method (paint pen) to count tie rod threadsEssential

Penetrating oil

Wire brush

Parts

Outer tie rod end assembly (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 LR AWD) × 1 — OEM Tesla front tie rod end - confirm left/right side
New cotter pin for tie rod end castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V (or 16V/48V on applicable models) low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ builds use a lithium 12V under the floor — verify location before disconnecting.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to disable air-suspension self-leveling logic and to prevent unintended motor activation (note: this Model 3 LR has coil suspension, but Jack Mode also disables drive).
Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using Tesla-approved pucks, and support on rated jack stands.
Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
Inspect the inner tie rod boot, ball joint, and steering rack area for any damage or fluid weep before disassembly.

Procedure

1
Mark tie rod thread position
Before loosening anything, mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod threads. Use a paint pen or measure exposed thread length with a caliper. This preserves approximate toe and reduces the post-repair alignment correction required (alignment is still mandatory).
2
Loosen tie rod jam (lock) nut
Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on its flats and break loose the jam nut between the inner tie rod and outer tie rod end. Back the jam nut off slightly but leave it in place against the outer end as a thread reference.
3
Remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer tie rod end
Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end ball stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required for reassembly.
⚠Never reuse a cotter pin. A failed cotter pin can allow the tie rod stud to back out, causing immediate loss of steering on that wheel.
4
Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
Use a tie rod end puller to press the ball stud out of the steering knuckle taper. A pickle fork may be used only if the tie rod end is being discarded, as it will destroy the boot. Avoid hammering on the knuckle — the front suspension uses aluminum components that can crack.
⚠Do not strike the aluminum steering knuckle with a steel hammer. Use a proper puller to avoid cracking suspension castings.
5
Count and unthread the outer tie rod end
Count the number of full turns required to unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod, and record this number. This further preserves your toe setting. Remove the old outer tie rod end.
6
Inspect inner tie rod and boot
With the outer end off, inspect the inner tie rod ball socket for play by hand and check the rack boot for tears or grease loss. If the inner tie rod is loose or the boot is damaged, this job expands to inner tie rod / rack service — stop and reassess before continuing.
7
Install new outer tie rod end
Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns recorded in Step 5, until your reference mark/measurement is matched. Snug the jam nut against it but do not final-torque yet — final torque is set after alignment.
8
Insert ball stud into steering knuckle and torque castle nut
Insert the new tie rod end's ball stud into the knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the castle slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten slightly further to align — never loosen to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
⚠️The castle nut MUST be secured with a new cotter pin. Do not return the vehicle to service without it.
Torque spec
Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9
Preliminary toe check
Visually verify the steering wheel position and rough toe by sighting the wheel against the rear wheel. This is only to ensure the vehicle is drivable to the alignment rack — it is NOT a substitute for a four-wheel alignment.

Reassembly

Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
Close all doors, allow the vehicle to fully wake, and clear any chassis or steering faults from the touchscreen if present.
Drive the vehicle CAREFULLY at low speed directly to an alignment rack — do not perform highway driving with an un-aligned tie rod.
After the four-wheel alignment is set, hold the inner tie rod and torque the tie rod lock (jam) nut to specification.

Verification

Confirm new cotter pin is installed and legs properly bent at the outer tie rod end castle nut.
Have a four-wheel alignment performed and printed; verify front toe is within Tesla's specified range for 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD and that the steering wheel is centered.
After alignment, verify the tie rod jam (lock) nut was final-torqued to specification — this is a common omission that causes toe drift.
Test drive: confirm no steering pull, no vibration, no clunking over bumps, and that the steering wheel returns to center after a turn.
Re-inspect the tie rod end boot for proper seating and absence of pinching after the wheels have been turned lock-to-lock.
While the vehicle is on the lift for alignment, this is a good opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends DOT 4 brake fluid replacement every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi recommended) — Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' marketing does not reflect actual service reality.