Replace the inner tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack and is accessed by removing the outer tie rod end and sliding back the rack boot; a four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end assembly × 1 — Manufacturer-specified inner tie rod for 2024 Model 3 AWD — match left/right side
• Steering rack boot clamps (inner and outer) × 2 — OEM-style crimp or band clamps
• Castle nut cotter pin (outer tie rod) × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Steering rack boot × 1 — Replace if torn or aged

Preparation

1. TESLA SAFETY PREAMBLE: Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically a Li-ion 12V/16V unit — refer to architecture notes and the in-vehicle service mode procedure for disconnect location.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' / 'Transport Mode' via the touchscreen before lifting (prevents air suspension faults on equipped cars and disables auto-leveling logic — Model 3 is coil-only but Service Mode is still recommended).
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jacking points and rubber pucks. Support on jack stands rated for the Model 3 AWD curb weight (~4,050 lb).
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Mark the position of the outer tie rod jam nut and measure exposed thread length so toe can be approximated on reassembly (alignment is still mandatory).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Straighten the cotter pin and remove it from the outer tie rod castle nut. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the stud. Use a tie rod separator tool to break the taper free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork separators as they will tear the boot. Once free, fully remove the nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠The steering knuckle area is close to the brake rotor and ABS sensor wiring — protect the wheel speed sensor harness during separation.
2. 2

   Loosen jam nut and remove outer tie rod
   Loosen the tie rod lock (jam) nut against the inner tie rod shaft. Count the number of turns as you unthread the outer tie rod from the inner shaft — record this for reassembly reference (alignment still required). Set the outer tie rod aside.
3. 3

   Release and slide back the steering rack boot
   Locate the inner and outer boot clamps on the rack boot. Cut or release both clamps using boot clamp pliers. Slide the boot inward off the rack housing and back over the inner tie rod shaft to expose the inner tie rod socket where it threads into the rack. Inspect the boot for tears — replace if damaged.
   ℹ️Inspect the steering rack interior for grease loss, contamination, or rack travel damage before continuing.
4. 4

   Prevent rack rotation and unthread inner tie rod
   Hold the steering rack shaft with a back-up wrench on the flats provided (do NOT clamp on the rack teeth or rod body). Using an inner tie rod removal tool sized to the inner tie rod hex, unthread the inner tie rod counterclockwise from the rack. Some inner tie rods have a staked or peened locking feature — relieve any staking before unthreading to avoid damaging rack threads.
   ⚠Twisting the rack shaft without a back-up wrench can damage internal rack components and is not covered by warranty.
5. 5

   Inspect rack threads and prepare new inner tie rod
   Clean the rack shaft threads and inspect for damage. Compare old and new inner tie rods side-by-side to confirm correct length, thread pitch, and ball-socket orientation. Apply thread locker only if specified by the replacement part instructions — many OEM inner tie rods come pre-applied.
6. 6

   Install new inner tie rod
   Thread the new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand to avoid cross-threading. Using the inner tie rod tool with the back-up wrench on the rack flats, torque the inner tie rod to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual (inner tie rod-to-rack torque is not in the verified list). If the part includes a staking step, stake per the manufacturer's instructions.
   ⚠Do not substitute a generic 'tie rod nut' torque value for the inner tie rod-to-rack joint — these are different fasteners.
7. 7

   Reposition rack boot and install new clamps
   Slide the rack boot back into its grooves on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod shaft. Make sure the boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear during steering travel. Install new clamps on both ends and crimp/secure per clamp type.
8. 8

   Reinstall outer tie rod to approximate previous toe
   Thread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod shaft, then thread the outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft the same number of turns recorded during disassembly. This is an approximation only — final toe must be set during alignment.
9. 9

   Reconnect outer tie rod to steering knuckle
   Insert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and torque to the verified specification. If the cotter pin slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) until the slot aligns. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to lock.
   ⚠Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — always tighten to align.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Final tightening of tie rod jam nut (post-alignment)
    Snug the jam nut by hand for the drive to the alignment rack. After the alignment shop sets final toe, the tie rod lock nut must be torqued to the verified spec. Do NOT fully torque the jam nut before alignment — toe will need to be adjusted.
    ℹ️Final lock nut torque applies AFTER alignment is complete.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire contacts the ground, then torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any panels removed for access.
4. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake fully and verify no chassis or steering warnings appear on the display.
6. Drive carefully — straight line only at low speed — directly to an alignment shop. Do not drive long distances on an un-aligned vehicle.
7. After alignment, return and torque the tie rod lock (jam) nut to spec while holding the inner shaft to prevent rotation.

Verification

• With the wheels straight ahead, confirm steering wheel is centered. If off-center, the alignment shop must re-set toe split.
• Check the touchscreen for any 'Steering Assist Reduced', 'Power Steering', or Autopilot calibration alerts. The Model 3 may require an Autopilot camera/steering angle re-calibration drive (straight road, ~25 mph, lane markings visible).
• Inspect the rack boot at full left and full right lock — boot must not twist, balloon, or rub.
• Verify the outer tie rod castle nut cotter pin is installed and bent.
• Confirm tie rod lock nut is torqued to specification AFTER alignment.
• Test drive: check for pulling, vibration, or clunking. Re-check inner/outer tie rod fasteners after the first 50 miles.
• Note: Model 3 wears tires aggressively — Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi. Inspect tire wear pattern at the next rotation to confirm alignment held.

More procedures for this vehicle