Replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. This is a chassis-only job with no HV exposure, but a post-repair alignment is mandatory.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly × 1 — Tesla Model 3 OEM outer tie rod end (left or right side specific)
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin — do not reuse

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically the lithium 12V/16V unit — refer to architecture notes for exact location on this build (under floor or behind right rear seat back panel).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the steering wheel straight-ahead and lock it with the seatbelt or a steering wheel holder so the rack does not rotate while a tie rod is disconnected.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the Tesla-designated lift points (jack pucks recommended) and support on jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and clean the tie rod assembly
   Wire-brush the tie rod end stud, castle nut, cotter pin, and the lock nut at the inner-to-outer tie rod junction. Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut threads and the castle nut. This is critical on a 2024 vehicle — corrosion on the taper can make removal much harder.
2. 2

   Mark the lock nut position
   Using a paint marker, mark the position of the inner tie rod lock nut on the inner tie rod shaft. Also count and record the number of exposed threads between the lock nut and the outer tie rod end. This preserves toe setting close enough to drive to the alignment shop safely.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin. Loosen the castle nut but do not remove it fully yet — back it off until it is flush with the end of the threads. This protects the threads when separating the taper.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end taper from the steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller (preferred) to break the taper free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if possible — they tear the boot and can damage the knuckle. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and lift the tie rod end stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not let the steering knuckle/hub assembly hang on the brake hose or wheel speed sensor wiring. Support it with a bungee or jack stand.
5. 5

   Loosen the inner tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench on its designated flats — never on the shaft body or boot clamp. Loosen the lock nut. Do not back the lock nut off; just break it free.
6. 6

   Unthread and remove the outer tie rod end
   Count the exact number of full rotations as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record this number — it is your reference for installing the replacement at the same length.
7. 7

   Compare old and new parts
   Place old and new tie rod ends side by side. Verify thread direction (some are reverse-thread depending on side), stud taper size, and overall length match. Transfer the lock nut from the inner tie rod side onto the new outer tie rod if applicable, or use the new lock nut if supplied.
8. 8

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the exact number of rotations you recorded during removal. Confirm against your paint mark and exposed thread count. The lock nut should end up close to its original position — final torque is deferred until after alignment.
9. 9

   Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle and torque the castle nut
   Insert the new outer tie rod stud through the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to retain it.
   ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole. Always tighten further. A loose tie rod end can detach during driving.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Snug the inner tie rod lock nut (do NOT final-torque yet)
    Hand-snug the lock nut against the new outer tie rod end. Final torque is applied AFTER the alignment shop sets toe. Leaving it slightly loose allows the alignment tech to adjust without disturbing your work.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close all doors, allow the vehicle to wake, and verify no chassis or steering faults are displayed on the center screen.
6. Drive carefully (low speed, straight line) directly to an alignment shop — do not drive on highway until alignment is complete and the lock nut is final-torqued.

Verification

• Have a four-wheel alignment performed. Tesla Model 3 alignment specs are tight — toe is the critical adjustment affected by this repair.
• After alignment, torque the inner tie rod lock nut to specification.
• Verify there is no play at the new tie rod end by grasping the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and rocking it — there should be zero clunk or movement at the outer tie rod joint.
• Confirm the cotter pin is installed and bent over.
• Take a short test drive: verify the steering wheel is centered when driving straight, no pulling, and no clunks over bumps.
• Check the center display for any steering, ABS, or stability control warning lamps. The Model 3 may briefly relearn steering angle — if a steering angle sensor fault persists, a Tesla service appointment may be required to recalibrate.
• Wheel lug nuts to be re-torqued after approximately 50 miles.

More procedures for this vehicle