Replacement of both inner and outer tie rods on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. This job affects steering geometry and requires a four-wheel alignment afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod assembly × 2 — OEM Tesla Model 3 inner tie rod, left and right (verify part numbers with Tesla parts catalog)
• Outer tie rod end × 2 — OEM Tesla Model 3 outer tie rod end, left and right
• Cotter pins for tie rod end castle nuts × 2 — Manufacturer-specified size

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor depending on build — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla Service Manual for your specific build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place vehicle in Jack/Transport Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE lifting (Service > Jack Mode) to disable self-leveling/regen interactions — do this before disconnecting 12V if possible.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack pad pucks at the front lift points and support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove both front wheels and set aside.
10. Center the steering wheel and lock it in place (a steering wheel holder or seat-belt loop works) to prevent the clockspring from rotating with the wheels off.

Procedure

1. 1

   Measure and mark existing tie rod length
   Before disturbing anything, measure the exposed thread length on each side from the lock nut to a fixed reference on the inner tie rod, or measure the overall tie rod assembly length. Record both sides. Mark the lock nut position with a paint pen. This gives a starting point for toe settings before final alignment and helps the vehicle drive safely to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin and loosen outer tie rod castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin. Loosen but do not fully remove the castle nut — leave it threaded a few turns to protect the threads when separating the taper.
3. 3

   Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller (preferred — preserves the boot for inspection of surrounding parts) to break the taper between the outer tie rod stud and the steering knuckle. A pickle fork is acceptable since the part is being replaced, but avoid striking adjacent aluminum components. Once free, remove the castle nut completely and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not hammer on aluminum knuckle or control arm — strike only the steel taper area or use a press-style separator.
4. 4

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft flats with an open-end wrench and loosen the lock nut between the inner and outer tie rod. Note thread direction (one side may be left-hand thread depending on geometry — verify before applying force).
5. 5

   Remove outer tie rod end (if reusing inner)
   If only replacing the outer end, count the number of turns required to thread it off the inner tie rod shaft and record it. For this job (full replacement of both inner and outer), simply unthread and discard the outer end along with the lock nut.
6. 6

   Access and remove the inner tie rod boot clamp
   Locate the steering rack boot covering the inner tie rod. Release the outer (small) boot clamp and the inner (large) clamp at the rack housing. Slide the boot back along the rack to expose the inner tie rod-to-rack joint. Inspect the boot — if torn or aged, replace it.
7. 7

   Remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack
   Hold the steering rack shaft with an appropriate wrench on its flats (DO NOT clamp or grip the rack teeth or shaft surface — this will damage the rack). Use an inner tie rod removal tool (crow-foot style that engages the inner tie rod housing flats) with a breaker bar to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack. Inner tie rods are typically staked or use a locking feature — apply firm steady force.
   ⚠️Damaging the steering rack shaft will require rack replacement. Always grip the rack only on its designated flats.
8. 8

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Repeat steps 2–7 for the other side of the vehicle. Keep left and right components separated if there is any side-specific difference.
9. 9

   Install new inner tie rod
   Apply a small amount of thread locker only if specified by the new part's manufacturer instructions. Thread the new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand to avoid cross-threading. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Re-stake the joint if the new part is supplied with a stakeable collar and the manufacturer requires it.
10. 10

    Reinstall steering rack boot
    Slide the rack boot back into position. Install new boot clamps (or reuse if in perfect condition and reusable type). Ensure the boot is not twisted and is fully seated on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod groove.
11. 11

    Install lock nut and new outer tie rod end
    Thread the new lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft, then thread the new outer tie rod end onto the shaft. Set the assembled tie rod length to match the measurement recorded in Step 1 — this is a temporary baseline only; final toe will be set during alignment. Do NOT fully torque the lock nut yet.
12. 12

    Insert outer tie rod stud into steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and tighten.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install new cotter pin
    Align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole in the stud. If alignment requires it, tighten the castle nut slightly further — never loosen to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs to retain it.
    ⚠️Never back off the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further within torque tolerance.
14. 14

    Repeat installation on opposite side
    Repeat steps 9–13 on the other side. Verify both sides are set to equal exposed thread length as a starting point.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (Wheel Lug Nuts).
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Exit Jack Mode if it remains active. Allow the vehicle to fully boot — verify no error messages on the touchscreen.
6. Drive vehicle slowly and carefully (straight line, low speed) to the alignment rack. Tie Rod Lock Nut is NOT yet final-torqued — alignment shop will set toe and then torque.
7. After alignment is complete, ensure the alignment technician final-torques the Tie Rod Lock Nut to specification.

Verification

• Confirm a four-wheel alignment has been performed and printed alignment sheet shows toe within Tesla Model 3 specification on both sides.
• Verify Tie Rod Lock Nut is torqued to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) on both sides AFTER alignment.
• Verify new cotter pins are installed and bent on both outer tie rod castle nuts.
• Test drive: confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight, no pull, no clunks over bumps, and no play in steering on-center.
• Check Tesla touchscreen for any chassis, ABS, or Autopilot/camera calibration warnings. Drive the calibration route if Autopilot requests recalibration after alignment.
• Inspect rack boots after first drive for proper seating and no twisting.
• Note: While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is a good opportunity to check brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends DOT 4 brake fluid replacement every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle