suspension

Trailing Arm Bushing

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Advanced

Time

2.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replace the rear trailing arm (fore link) bushing on a 2024 Model 3 Long Range AWD. The bushing presses into the body-side mount of the trailing arm; this job requires a hydraulic press or a heavy-duty bushing press tool and careful suspension support.

Warnings

⚠️The HV battery pack is floor-mounted directly inboard of the rear suspension. Do NOT place jack stands or lift pads on or near the HV pack case — use only the manufacturer-designated lift points.

⚠️If you see any orange cable routed near the rear subframe area, STOP. Do not cut, pinch, or pry against orange cabling.

⚠Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike aluminum control arms or body brackets with a steel hammer — use a brass drift or dead-blow.

⚠A four-wheel alignment is required after this work. Mark all eccentric/cam bolt positions before disassembly to allow approximate reassembly, but do not skip the alignment.

⚠Suspension bolts that load the bushing rubber must be final-torqued at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels) or the bushing will be preloaded and fail prematurely.

ℹ️Tesla's 'no scheduled maintenance' claim is marketing. While here, inspect the other rear suspension bushings, ball joints, and brake fluid age (DOT 4, 2-year service interval).

Tools required

Floor jack (3-ton minimum)Essential

Jack stands (rated for EV curb weight)Essential

Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential

Torque wrench (extended range to 200 Nm)Essential

Breaker barEssential

Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential

Metric combination wrench setEssential

Hydraulic shop press OR heavy-duty bushing press tool kitEssential

Bushing driver / receiver cup set sized to bushing ODEssential

Pry bar

Penetrating oil

Wheel chocksEssential

Drift punch / brass drift

Paint marker (for alignment reference marks)Essential

Parts

Rear trailing arm bushing (manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 rear trailing arm bushing — match by VIN at parts counter
Trailing arm-to-body mounting bolt (single-use, if specified by Tesla) × 1 — OEM specification — replace if Tesla service info indicates single-use

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically the lithium 12V/16V unit — refer to architecture notes and the in-vehicle service mode disconnect procedure.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Chock the front wheels.
Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated lift points and support on rated jack stands. Never lift on the HV battery case.
Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
Inspect the trailing arm, surrounding bushings, and fasteners. Photograph original orientation and mark any eccentric/cam alignment bolts with a paint pen.

Procedure

1
Support the rear suspension
Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the rear lower control arm or hub assembly to support suspension load. Raise just enough to neutralize spring pressure on the trailing arm. Do not place the jack against the HV pack.
⚠The coil spring is captive between the lower control arm and body. Maintain support throughout the procedure.
2
Mark fastener positions
Use a paint marker to reference the trailing arm bolt head, washer, and body bracket position. If an alignment cam/eccentric is present, mark its rotational orientation. These marks aid reassembly but do not replace a post-repair alignment.
3
Disconnect ancillary components if obstructing
If the parking brake cable, ABS/wheel-speed harness, or brake hose bracket is clipped to the trailing arm, release the clips and route the harness aside. Do not stretch or stress the wheel-speed sensor cable.
⚠Damaged ABS wiring will trigger stability control faults that require diagnostic tool clearing.
4
Remove the trailing arm body-side bolt
Loosen and remove the through-bolt securing the trailing arm to the body bracket. Apply penetrating oil if corroded. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn.
⚠Bolt may be tight from factory thread-locker. Use a breaker bar; do not use an impact on aluminum brackets.
5
Remove the trailing arm hub-side fastener
Remove the bolt(s) connecting the trailing arm to the rear knuckle/hub carrier. Support the arm as it is freed. Set hardware aside, keeping it organized by location.
6
Remove the trailing arm from the vehicle
Maneuver the trailing arm out of the body bracket and away from the knuckle. Inspect the arm for cracks, corrosion, or deformation before proceeding.
7
Press out the old bushing
Secure the trailing arm in a hydraulic press with appropriate receiver cups supporting the arm housing (not the bushing flange). Use a bushing driver matched to the bushing OD to press the old bushing straight out. Do not press against the rubber — press on the outer steel sleeve.
⚠Never strike an aluminum trailing arm to remove a bushing — it will crack. Use a press only.
⚠️Bushings can release stored energy when freed. Keep hands and face clear of the press centerline.
8
Clean and inspect the bushing bore
Clean the bore with a non-abrasive solvent and a clean rag. Inspect for scoring, ovalization, or cracks. Light surface corrosion can be removed with a Scotch-Brite pad; do not use a die grinder or sandpaper that changes bore dimensions.
9
Press in the new bushing
Lubricate the outer sleeve of the new bushing with the manufacturer-specified assembly lube (or a thin film of soapy water if no lube is specified — never use petroleum grease on rubber). Align the new bushing squarely in the bore and press it in using a driver that contacts only the outer sleeve. If the bushing has an indexing mark or void orientation, align per service-manual specification.
⚠Bushing must be installed at the correct depth and orientation. Misindexed voided bushings cause uneven wear and ride harshness.
10
Reinstall the trailing arm
Maneuver the arm back into the body bracket and knuckle. Hand-thread both the body-side through-bolt and the hub-side fastener to verify alignment, then snug — but do not final-torque yet.

Reassembly

Reattach any ABS wiring, parking brake cable, or brake hose brackets to the trailing arm in original routing.
Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts.
Lower the vehicle so its full weight rests on the wheels (ride height) before final-torquing the trailing arm bolts. This prevents bushing preload.
Final-torque the trailing arm body-side and hub-side fasteners at ride height to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Use the Control Arm Bolts spec (165 Nm / 122 lb-ft) ONLY if Tesla service info confirms it applies to this fastener; otherwise consult the manual.
Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
Allow the vehicle to wake fully and verify no chassis warnings on the touchscreen.

Verification

Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings appear on the center display after a key cycle.
Visually verify the trailing arm sits naturally in its bracket with no twist on the new bushing.
Road-test at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps; any clunk indicates incomplete torque or misindexed bushing.
Schedule and perform a four-wheel alignment — Model 3 rear suspension is alignment-sensitive and tire wear is fast on EVs.
While the vehicle is up, check brake fluid age (DOT 4 service is every 2 years per Tesla), tire rotation interval (~6,250 mi), and inspect remaining rear suspension bushings for similar wear.
Re-check the trailing arm fasteners for movement after the first 100–200 miles.