Replacement of a front upper control arm on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The Model 3 front suspension uses a multi-link design with the upper control arm bolted to the strut tower area and connecting to the upper steering knuckle via a ball joint.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Upper Control Arm Assembly (left or right as required) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front upper control arm — confirm side and AWD application
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) is typically located under the front trunk floor or behind the rear seat panel depending on build — verify location before disconnect and follow the manufacturer-specified disconnect order.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in 'Jack Mode' / 'Service Mode' via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V — this disables auto-leveling and prevents the suspension control system from registering faults. (Note: Model 3 has coil suspension, but service mode still suppresses related ABS/stability codes during wheel-off work.)
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Chock the rear wheels.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated front jack points using puck adapters and support on jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Inspect the upper control arm, ball joint boot, bushings, and surrounding components. Photograph the routing of any wiring or brake hose retainers near the control arm so you can re-secure them identically. Verify the new control arm matches the removed unit (left/right specific).
2. 2

   Support the steering knuckle
   Place a jack under the lower control arm or knuckle to support the suspension as you separate the upper ball joint. This prevents the knuckle from dropping and stressing the CV axle, brake hose, or wheel speed sensor harness.
   ⚠Allowing the knuckle to fall freely can damage the CV joint inner tripod and overextend the brake hose.
3. 3

   Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the castle nut. If the ball stud spins, hold it with the manufacturer-specified hex/Allen feature on the end of the stud while loosening the nut.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
   Use a ball joint separator to break the upper ball joint taper free from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork tools if you intend to reuse the boot — but since you are replacing the control arm, a pickle fork is acceptable. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — strike only with a dead-blow or brass drift if needed.
5. 5

   Detach any harness retainers
   Free any wiring clips, ABS sensor harness retainers, or brake hose brackets that route along or attach to the upper control arm. Note their exact positions for reassembly.
6. 6

   Remove inboard control arm pivot bolt(s)
   Support the control arm and remove the inboard mounting bolt(s) that secure the upper control arm to the chassis/frame bracket. Note bolt orientation and the position of any alignment cams or eccentric washers — mark their orientation before removal so initial alignment is approximately preserved.
   ℹ️If equipped with eccentric/cam alignment hardware, scribe a reference mark on the cam and bracket before removing — this preserves rough camber/caster alignment until a professional alignment is performed.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the upper control arm
   Withdraw the upper control arm from the vehicle. Compare old and new arms side-by-side: bushing orientation, ball joint angle, and any integrated brackets must match.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm — inboard side
   Position the new control arm at its chassis mount and install the inboard pivot bolt(s) and any cam hardware in their original orientation. Hand-tighten only at this stage — final torque must occur with the suspension loaded at ride height.
9. 9

   Reconnect the upper ball joint
   Insert the upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Continue tightening (do not back off) only as needed to align the next castellation slot with the cotter pin hole, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
   ⚠Always tighten further to align the cotter pin hole — never loosen below the specified torque.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach harness and hose retainers
    Reinstall all wiring clips, ABS sensor lead retainers, and brake hose brackets to their original locations on or near the new control arm.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so its full weight rests on the wheels (suspension at normal ride height). For a precise final torque, use a drive-on ramp or roll the vehicle onto the ground.
3. With the suspension fully loaded, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). [Control Arm Bolts — CRITICAL]
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft). [Wheel Lug Nuts — CRITICAL]
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Exit Service/Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
7. Wake the vehicle and check the touchscreen for any chassis or stability fault messages. Clear or address as needed.

Verification

• Confirm there are no suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts on the touchscreen after a short drive cycle.
• Perform a four-wheel alignment immediately — replacing an upper control arm changes camber and caster. Driving the vehicle for extended distances without alignment will scrub the front tires.
• After a short test drive, re-inspect the new ball joint cotter pin, the inboard pivot bolt witness marks, and harness routing for any contact or chafing.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after approximately 80 km (50 mi) per Tesla's recommendation following any wheel-off service.
• While the vehicle is on a lift, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check tire wear/rotation interval (every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle