Upper Control Arm - Rear

Replacement of a rear upper control arm (camber link) on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. This is a suspension-only job with no HV system involvement, but final torque must be done with suspension loaded to prevent premature bushing failure.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear upper control arm assembly (camber link) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear upper control arm — verify by VIN
• Control arm pivot bolt(s) and hardware × 1 — Replace if specified as single-use by Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, this is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ units use a lithium 12V located under the floor — confirm location before starting and follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels.
7. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle ONLY at the manufacturer-specified rear jacking points using rubber pucks; support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side and set aside.
10. Mark the orientation of the existing control arm and any cam/eccentric adjusters with a paint pen so the alignment can be approximated on reinstallation.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect work area
   Visually inspect under the vehicle around the rear suspension. Confirm there are no orange HV cables, coolant lines, or wiring harnesses routed across the upper control arm path. The rear upper control arm sits between the rear subframe (inboard) and the upright/knuckle (outboard).
   ⚠️If any orange cable is present in the work zone, STOP immediately.
2. 2

   Support the rear knuckle
   Place a floor jack under the rear lower control arm or hub area and apply light upward pressure to support the knuckle. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the upper arm is disconnected and keeps strain off the half-shaft and brake hose.
3. 3

   Note alignment markings
   If the upper control arm uses an eccentric/cam adjuster at the inboard mount, mark its current rotational position relative to the subframe with a paint pen. This is for reference only — a professional alignment is still required after the job.
4. 4

   Loosen outboard fastener
   Loosen but do not fully remove the outboard fastener securing the upper control arm to the rear knuckle/upright. Use a hex key on the bolt head if required to counter-hold while turning the nut.
5. 5

   Loosen inboard fastener
   Loosen but do not fully remove the inboard pivot bolt securing the upper control arm to the rear subframe. Support the arm with one hand to prevent it from dropping.
6. 6

   Remove fasteners and arm
   Fully remove the outboard fastener, then the inboard fastener. Withdraw the upper control arm from the vehicle. If the bushing sleeve is seized, gently tap the bolt out with a brass drift — do NOT strike aluminum components with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension components dent and crack easily. Use a dead-blow or brass drift only.
7. 7

   Compare new vs. old arm
   Lay the new upper control arm next to the old one. Confirm length, bushing orientation, and ball-stud/eye geometry match. If the original used an eccentric washer set, transfer or match it on the new arm.
8. 8

   Install new control arm
   Position the new upper control arm into the inboard subframe mount first and start the inboard pivot bolt by hand. Then align the outboard end with the knuckle and start the outboard fastener by hand. Do NOT fully torque yet.
9. 9

   Snug fasteners
   Snug both fasteners to hold the arm in place, but leave them loose enough that the bushings can still rotate freely. Final torque must be done at ride height.
10. 10

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so the full vehicle weight is on the suspension at normal ride height. If using a lift, use turn-plates or roll the vehicle off the lift onto level ground.
11. 11

    Final torque — control arm bolts at ride height
    With the suspension fully loaded at ride height, torque the inboard and outboard control arm fasteners to the verified specification. This is critical — torquing at full droop pre-loads the rubber bushing and will cause it to tear out within months.
    ⚠Critical torque — must be done with vehicle weight on wheels.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque — wheel
    Torque the rear wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery following the Tesla-documented reconnect sequence.
2. Close any access panels disturbed during 12V disconnect.
3. Wake the vehicle and allow systems to fully boot. Some driver-assist features may require a short calibration drive.

Verification

• Visually confirm the new upper control arm is seated, both fasteners are torqued, and no tools or rags remain in the wheel well.
• Check that the brake hose, ABS sensor wiring, and parking brake harness are not stretched, pinched, or contacting the new arm.
• Drive the vehicle slowly in a straight line on a quiet road and listen for clunks or knocks from the rear suspension.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — replacing a rear upper control arm changes rear camber and toe. Driving extended miles without alignment will cause rapid inner tire wear (the Model 3 already wears rear tires aggressively due to instant torque and curb weight).
• Reminder of related Tesla service intervals while the vehicle is in for alignment: rotate tires every ~6,250 mi, inspect brake fluid every 2 years, and inspect drive unit fluid per Tesla's revised 25,000–50,000 mi guidance (no longer 'lifetime').

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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