Replacement of the front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD. The front hub is a sealed unit bolted to the steering knuckle; the axle (CV) shaft passes through it and must be released to remove the hub.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing hub assembly × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 front hub assembly — match by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use if staked/cotter style) × 1 — OEM-spec axle nut for Model 3 front
• Cotter pin (if applicable) × 1 — OEM-spec
• Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified one-time-use) × 4 — OEM-spec hub-to-knuckle bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake via the touchscreen (Controls > Safety > Parking Brake).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the LV battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024 builds use a lithium 12V/LV unit under the floor — verify location for your VIN before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen (do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground.
7. With service mode disabled and LV disconnected, lift the front of the vehicle using Tesla-approved jack pucks at the designated front lift points and support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel.
9. Have the new hub assembly, axle nut, and any specified one-time-use hardware on hand before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disengage the axle nut
   Remove any axle nut cover/cap. If a cotter pin is present, straighten and remove it. With an assistant pressing the brake pedal (or wheel reinstalled and lowered slightly), break loose the axle nut. Do not fully remove yet — leave a few threads engaged to protect the axle shaft end.
   ⚠Never break the axle nut loose with the wheel off the ground — the rotational load can damage the bearing or cause the vehicle to shift.
2. 2

   Remove brake caliper and bracket
   Re-lift the wheel off the ground if lowered. Remove the two caliper guide pins/slider bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Suspend the caliper from the strut/coil with wire — do not let it hang by the brake hose. Then remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the steering knuckle and remove the bracket.
3. 3

   Remove brake rotor
   Remove any rotor retaining clip/screw if present, then slide the brake rotor off the hub. If the rotor is seized to the hub face, apply penetrating oil to the hub-rotor interface and tap evenly around the rotor hat with a dead-blow — do not strike the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠Do not pry between the rotor and the aluminum knuckle.
4. 4

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Disconnect its harness connector and unclip the harness from any retainers on the knuckle and strut. Remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from the knuckle to prevent damage during hub removal.
   ⚠ABS sensors are easily broken if pried — twist gently while pulling straight out.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the axle nut and free the axle from the hub
   Fully remove the axle nut and discard if it is a single-use staked or cotter-pin style. Push the CV axle stub inboard through the hub splines. If seized, use a hub puller pressing on the axle end — do not hammer the axle threads. Support the axle with wire so it does not hang on the inner CV joint.
   ⚠If the axle splines won't release, separating an outer tie rod or lower ball joint may be required to gain clearance — follow OEM procedure and torque on reassembly.
6. 6

   Remove the hub assembly from the knuckle
   From behind the steering knuckle, remove the hub-to-knuckle mounting bolts (typically 4). Withdraw the hub assembly from the front of the knuckle. If corroded in place, apply penetrant and tap the hub flange evenly with a brass drift or dead-blow — do not strike the aluminum knuckle. A slide hammer with hub adapter may be used if available.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore and mating surfaces
   Wire-brush the hub bore in the knuckle and the bolt threads. Inspect the knuckle for cracks, elongation of bolt holes, or corrosion damage. Clean the axle splines and inspect the outer CV joint boot for tears. Replace any damaged parts before reinstallation.
8. 8

   Install the new hub assembly
   Apply a light film of anti-seize to the knuckle bore mating surface only (not on bolt threads or hub flange face that contacts the rotor). Position the new hub assembly into the knuckle, aligning the bolt holes. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolts if specified by the OEM procedure, then install and snug all bolts evenly in a cross pattern before final torque.
   ⚠Final torque to OEM specification — confirm whether bolts are reusable or one-time-use per Tesla Service Manual for your VIN.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall the axle through the hub
   Slide the CV axle splines through the new hub. Hand-thread the new axle nut to hold the axle in place. Do not final-torque yet.
10. 10

    Reinstall ABS sensor
    Insert the ABS wheel speed sensor into its bore in the knuckle (lightly lubricate the O-ring if present). Install the retaining bolt and reconnect the harness, routing it back into all original clips.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall brake rotor, caliper bracket, and caliper
    Slide the rotor onto the hub. Install the caliper bracket with threadlocker on the bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the caliper over the rotor and torque the slider/guide pin bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
12. 12

    Final torque the axle nut
    Reinstall the wheel hand-tight, lower the vehicle so the tire just contacts the ground (or have an assistant apply the brake). Torque the axle nut to specification. Stake the nut or install a new cotter pin per the OEM design — do not reuse the original.
    ⚠️An improperly torqued or unstaked axle nut can back off and cause loss of wheel control. This is a CRITICAL fastener.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Install wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern, lower the vehicle to the ground, then final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V/LV battery and reinstall any panels removed for access.
2. Verify all harness connectors (ABS sensor) are fully seated and clipped into their retainers.
3. Confirm the axle nut is staked or cotter-pinned and that no tools are left in the wheel well.
4. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the caliper pistons against the pads.

Verification

• With the vehicle on stands, spin the hub by hand — it should rotate smoothly with no roughness, grinding, or wobble.
• Power the vehicle on and check the touchscreen for any ABS, traction control, stability control, or EPB warnings — clear codes via Tesla Service Mode if available, or have a Tesla-certified shop clear them.
• Drive at low speed in a safe area and confirm ABS speed signal at all four wheels (no ABS fault light).
• Test drive at progressively higher speeds and listen for bearing growl or wheel-speed-related noise; verify no pulling or vibration under braking.
• After ~50 miles, re-check axle nut staking/cotter pin and lug nut torque (Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm).
• Note: this is a good time to inspect brake pad thickness and brake fluid condition — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle