Replacement of a rear door power window regulator on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Long Range. Requires removal of the rear door trim panel and water shield to access the regulator assembly mounted to the door inner frame.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear door window regulator assembly (left or right as required) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 rear door regulator — refer to VIN-matched OEM listing
• Door panel retaining clips (replacement set, often damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-equivalent door panel clip kit
• Butyl/foam sealant for water shield (if shield is damaged) × 1 — Generic automotive butyl rope sealant

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium on most build dates) is located per the architecture notes — behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor depending on build. Confirm location for your VIN before opening trim.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Lower the affected rear window approximately halfway BEFORE disconnecting 12V to expose the regulator-to-glass fasteners (if accessible through the door access holes). If the window is already stuck, plan to manage the glass manually.
7. Open the rear door fully and protect the door sill and B-pillar with painter's tape.
8. Have the replacement regulator on hand and verify it matches the side (LH/RH) and trim level.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove rear door trim panel
   Carefully pry up the inner door pull/switch bezel using a plastic trim tool. Disconnect the window switch harness. Remove any visible Torx fasteners hidden behind the bezel and at the lower edge of the trim panel. Lift the trim panel upward off the belt-line clip rail, then disconnect any remaining harnesses (courtesy light, speaker if applicable). Set the panel aside on a soft surface.
   ⚠Plastic clips frequently break — work slowly and have replacements ready.
2. 2

   Remove water/vapor shield
   Carefully peel back the foam/plastic vapor shield, preserving the butyl sealant where possible by warming it slightly. Fold the shield up and out of the way; do not tear it. If the shield is damaged, plan to replace the butyl seal on reassembly to prevent water intrusion into the cabin.
3. 3

   Position and secure the door glass
   If the window is operable, jog it to the position that aligns the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts with the door access holes. Apply painter's tape across the top of the door frame to support the glass, OR clamp a suction cup to the glass. Loosen the two glass clamp bolts that secure the glass to the regulator carrier(s). Carefully lift the glass upward and tape it securely to the top of the door frame to keep it out of the work area.
   ⚠️Frameless rear glass will fall into the door cavity and shatter if not supported before loosening the carrier clamps.
4. 4

   Disconnect window motor connector
   Locate the window motor electrical connector on the regulator. Release the locking tab and unplug it. Free the harness from any retaining clips on the regulator frame.
5. 5

   Remove regulator mounting fasteners
   Identify the regulator-to-door fasteners (typically several bolts/nuts around the perimeter of the regulator frame on the door inner panel). Support the regulator with one hand and remove the fasteners. Note the orientation and any spacers/grounds attached.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Extract regulator through access opening
   Tilt and maneuver the regulator assembly out through the large service opening in the door inner panel. The motor end is typically removed last. Take care not to scratch the painted door skin from the inside.
7. 7

   Compare new regulator to old
   Place the new regulator next to the removed unit. Verify the rail length, motor orientation, connector type, and carrier position match. If the new unit ships with a transport lock or shipping clip, leave it in place until the unit is bolted into the door (this protects the cable drum from unspooling).
   ℹ️An unspooled cable drum is not field-serviceable — the regulator must be returned/replaced.
8. 8

   Install new regulator
   Maneuver the new regulator into the door cavity in reverse of removal. Loosely start all mounting fasteners, then snug them in a cross pattern before final torque to the manufacturer-specified bracket bolt value. Reconnect the motor electrical connector and re-secure the harness in its clips. Remove the regulator's shipping lock (if equipped).
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Re-attach glass to regulator carrier
   Lower the glass back down into the carrier(s). Align the glass mounting holes with the carrier clamps, ensuring the glass is fully seated against the carrier stops front and rear. Snug the glass clamp bolts — torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Verify the glass is square in the door before final tightening.
   ⚠Misalignment here will cause the glass to bind, the seals to whistle at highway speed, or the auto-up to fault repeatedly.
10. 10

    Initial function test (before reassembly)
    Temporarily reconnect the door panel switch harness and the 12V battery. Cycle the window slowly through its full range using the switch (manual mode, not auto). Listen for binding, scraping, or motor strain. If movement is correct, fully lower the window, then disconnect the 12V again to complete reassembly safely.
    Torque spec

    Battery Terminal Bolts6 Nm (4 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Re-seat the vapor/water shield, replacing or supplementing the butyl sealant as needed. A poor seal here causes water intrusion into the rear footwell and, on Model 3, can wet under-seat electronics.
2. Reinstall the door trim panel: align the upper belt-line clips first, then press the lower clips home. Reconnect the switch and any auxiliary harnesses BEFORE fully seating the panel.
3. Reinstall trim panel screws and bezel.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery. Torque the terminal bolts per Battery Terminal Bolts spec. Do not overtighten.
5. Close the door and verify panel gaps and flushness.

Verification

• Initialize window auto-up/auto-down: with the door closed and 12V connected for at least 30 seconds, hold the window switch DOWN until the window is fully open and continue holding for ~2 seconds. Then hold the switch UP until fully closed and continue holding for ~2 seconds. This re-teaches the pinch-protection end stops.
• Test auto-down and auto-up — both should run end-to-end with a single tap of the switch.
• Test pinch protection: with the window rising, place a soft obstruction (rolled towel) in the path; the window should reverse automatically.
• Verify no error messages on the center touchscreen related to window or door modules.
• Spray-test or hose-test the door seal area after the butyl/water shield has set, confirming no water intrusion into the rear footwell.
• Road test at highway speed and listen for wind noise around the rear glass — indicates glass alignment in the carriers may need adjustment.
• Note: This is not a scheduled-maintenance item, but while the door is open, this is a good opportunity to confirm cabin air filter status (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and brake fluid service interval (every 2 years per Tesla).

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