Ball Joint - Lower

Replacement of the front lower ball joint on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. On this platform the lower ball joint is integrated into the front lower control arm — the ball joint is not serviced separately, the entire lower control arm assembly is replaced.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm Assembly (includes lower ball joint) — left or right as required × 1 — Tesla Model 3/Y front lower control arm — confirm side and revision against VIN
• Front Suspension Pinch Bolt (single-use) × 1 — OEM steering knuckle pinch bolt — replace with new
• Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut (if applicable to fitted hardware) × 1 — OEM cotter pin — replace with new

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V/16V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area or in the front trunk depending on build — verify on this 2024 Model Y before cutting power).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place Tesla in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) BEFORE disconnecting the 12V battery, to disable auto-leveling and air suspension logic (not applicable to coil-only Model Y, but Jack Mode also disables certain ride-related warnings).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle using only Tesla-approved lift points with puck adapters, and support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Never lift on the battery pack edge.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually confirm the failed lower ball joint (play, torn boot, knocking). Photograph the orientation of the control arm, sway bar link, and pinch bolt before disassembly. Confirm the replacement control arm matches side and revision.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Hold the end-link stud with an Allen/hex key to prevent rotation, then remove the nut securing the sway bar link to the lower control arm (or to the strut, depending on configuration). Swing the link out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Release the lower ball joint pinch bolt
   Locate the pinch bolt clamping the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle. Remove and DISCARD the pinch bolt — it is single-use and a new one must be installed on reassembly. Apply penetrating oil to the joint area if corroded.
   ⚠Do not pry the knuckle slot open with excessive force or a wedge that deforms the aluminum. Use a proper spreader tool.
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle
   If the design uses a castle nut/cotter pin instead of (or in addition to) a pinch bolt, remove the cotter pin and back off the castle nut to the end of the threads (do not fully remove yet — it protects the threads during separation). Use a pickle fork or, preferably, a ball joint separator to break the taper. With a pinch-bolt design, gently spread the knuckle slot and pry the lower control arm downward to release the ball joint stud. Support the hub/knuckle assembly with a wire or strap so it does not hang on the CV axle or brake hose.
   ⚠Never let the hub assembly hang by the brake line or ABS/wheel-speed sensor wiring. Damage to either is expensive and safety-critical.
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm inboard bolts
   Support the control arm with a jack. Remove the two inboard control arm bolts at the subframe mounts. Note bolt orientation and any alignment cams/washers — mark their position so the new arm goes in at the same baseline alignment. Lower and remove the control arm assembly.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Compare old and new control arms
   Set old and new arms side by side. Confirm bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, sway link mount, and overall geometry match. The lower ball joint is integrated into the new arm — there is no separate joint to press in.
7. 7

   Install the new lower control arm — inboard side
   Position the new control arm into the subframe mounts. Install the inboard bolts hand-tight only at this stage. Final torque must be applied with the suspension loaded at ride height (see reassembly).
8. 8

   Engage the ball joint stud into the knuckle
   Lift the control arm and guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle bore. Ensure the stud is fully seated and the pinch-bolt groove (or castle-nut threads) is properly aligned with the knuckle.
9. 9

   Install new pinch bolt and/or castle nut
   Install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to specification. If the configuration uses a castle nut, install the nut and torque to the lower spec, then continue tightening (not loosening) to align the slot with the stud hole and install a NEW cotter pin; final torque must meet the cotter-pin spec.
   ⚠️Never loosen a castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — only tighten further. A loose ball joint nut can fail and cause loss of steering control.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect the sway bar end link
    Reconnect the sway bar link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (tires on ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment-rated stands at the tires).
3. With the vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard control arm bolts to specification — Control Arm Bolts: 165 Nm (122 lb-ft).
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern — Wheel Lug Nuts: 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Power on the vehicle. Allow systems to fully boot. Clear any chassis/ABS faults from the touchscreen if present.
7. Drive the vehicle directly to a four-wheel alignment — required after any control arm replacement on a Model Y.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down hard on the front corner and release — suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunk.
• Grasp the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock — there should be zero vertical play at the lower joint.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot for proper seating and no tears.
• Verify the new pinch bolt is fully seated and the cotter pin (if used) is bent over correctly.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and confirming the steering is centered.
• Confirm a 4-wheel alignment has been performed and printout shows toe/camber within Tesla Model Y spec — this is critical because Model Y tire wear is unusually aggressive and misalignment will scrub tires within a few thousand miles.
• Re-check torque on the inboard control arm bolts after the first 100–500 miles of driving.
• While the vehicle is in the air, this is also a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and check tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi on Model Y).

More procedures for this vehicle