Replacement of upper and lower front ball joints on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. On this platform the lower ball joint is integral to the front lower control arm (the arm is replaced as an assembly), while the upper ball joint is serviced as part of the upper control arm/knuckle interface — confirm which joint(s) are being replaced before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly (includes lower ball joint) — manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model Y Performance × 1 — Tesla OEM front LCA assembly — verify by VIN
• Upper ball joint or upper control arm assembly — manufacturer-specified × 1 — Tesla OEM upper component — verify by VIN
• Ball joint castle nut and new cotter pin (if applicable to the joint being replaced) × 1 — OEM hardware kit
• New steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — OEM single-use pinch bolt
• New control arm-to-subframe bolts (if specified as single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if marked single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y the 12V (Li-ion) is located behind/under interior trim — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for exact access on this build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V if you intend to lift it; otherwise the air-less coil-sprung Model Y will simply lift normally — verify suspension is not in any service-disabled state.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front lift points using puck adapters; support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
10. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling, coolant lines, or wiring harnesses routed near the control arms before proceeding.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and confirm the failed joint
   With the wheel off, check upper and lower ball joints for play by levering the knuckle. Confirm which joint(s) you are replacing. On this platform the lower ball joint is integral with the front lower control arm — the arm is replaced as an assembly. The upper ball joint is similarly part of an upper arm assembly. Order the correct assembly by VIN.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Hold the end-link stud with an Allen key and remove the upper sway bar end-link nut. Swing the link out of the way. This unloads the knuckle and gives clearance for ball joint separation.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect the steering tie rod end (if needed for clearance)
   Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) and castle nut from the outer tie rod end. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle using a proper tie-rod puller — do NOT use a pickle fork on the boot side if the joint is being reused.
   ⚠Avoid prying against aluminum knuckle ears with steel tools — protect surfaces.
4. 4

   Release the upper ball joint pinch bolt (or castle nut)
   Identify the upper ball joint retention method on your specific build — either a pinch bolt clamping the joint stud into the knuckle, or a castle nut with cotter pin. Remove and discard the pinch bolt (single-use). If a castle nut, remove cotter pin and nut.
   ⚠Pinch bolt is single-use. A new bolt is required for reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle
   Carefully separate the upper joint from the knuckle. Use a dead-blow on the knuckle ear (not on the ball joint stud) or a proper spreader tool. Support the knuckle so it does not hang on the half-shaft or brake hose.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle dangle — it stresses the wheel speed sensor harness and CV joint.
6. 6

   Release the lower ball joint
   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint stud. Separate the lower joint from the knuckle using a ball joint separator. Support the knuckle/hub assembly.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the lower control arm (if replacing as assembly)
   Remove the inboard control arm-to-subframe bolts. Note bolt orientation and any cam/eccentric markings for reinstallation reference. Remove the control arm from the vehicle. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual to confirm whether these fasteners are single-use on your build.
   ℹ️Mark eccentric bolt positions before removal — alignment will still be required, but this minimizes initial misalignment when driving to the alignment shop.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Remove the upper control arm (if replacing as assembly)
   If the upper ball joint is integral to the upper arm, remove the strut tower nuts or upper arm pivot fasteners as specified by the Tesla Service Manual to free the upper arm. Note position of any shims or alignment hardware.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new lower control arm / lower ball joint assembly
   Position the new lower control arm into the subframe. Hand-thread the inboard bolts with new hardware where specified. Do NOT final-torque yet — the control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on the wheels to correctly preload the bushings.
10. 10

    Install new upper arm / upper ball joint
    Position the new upper arm assembly. Install strut tower nuts or pivot hardware and snug — final torque per the Tesla Service Manual. Reconnect the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle.
    Torque spec

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Seat ball joints and install retention hardware
    Seat the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle and install the castle nut. Torque to specification, then advance (do not back off) to align the cotter pin slot if required, and install a NEW cotter pin. Install a NEW pinch bolt at the upper joint (or castle nut + new cotter pin if that style) and torque to specification.
    ⚠Use the 102 Nm spec when the joint requires a new cotter pin; use 88 Nm if the joint design uses a self-locking nut without cotter pin. Verify which applies on your specific assembly.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect tie rod and sway bar link
    Reinstall the outer tie rod into the knuckle, torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual — and install a new cotter pin if applicable. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to ride height
    Reinstall the front wheel(s). Snug lug nuts, lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded at normal ride height (tires on ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment rack).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque control arm bolts under load
    With the vehicle at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm bolts. This is critical — torquing at full droop will twist the bushings at static ride and dramatically shorten arm life.
    ⚠If you cannot access the inboard bolts at ride height under your own lift, use a transmission jack or floor jack under the lower arm to simulate ride-height load before torquing.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Final torque lug nuts in star pattern
    With wheels on the ground, torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec. Re-check after a short test drive.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Power on the vehicle and clear any chassis/suspension faults shown on the touchscreen.
3. Verify steering wheel is centered before driving — if off-center, do not adjust tie rods yourself; correct at alignment.
4. Drive directly to an alignment shop. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after any front control arm or ball joint service on this vehicle.
5. After alignment, road-test for clunks, pulls, or steering wander.

Verification

• With wheels off the ground after settling, grip the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero ball joint play.
• Inspect new cotter pin(s) are fully bent over and seated.
• Verify pinch bolt and ball joint nut were torqued with a calibrated wrench (these are CRITICAL fasteners).
• Confirm control arm inboard bolts were torqued at ride height — visually re-check no marks/movement after first drive.
• Check the touchscreen for any suspension, ABS, or stability control alerts after the first drive cycle.
• Schedule four-wheel alignment immediately. Note: Model Y Performance tire wear is unusually high — pair this repair with a tire rotation if rotation interval (~6,250 mi) is near.

More procedures for this vehicle