Performance Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
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brakes

Brake Pads - Front

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
12
Steps
11
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace the front brake pads on a 2024 Model Y Performance. Performance trim uses larger front calipers than standard Model Y, but the pad replacement procedure is conventional. Brake regen on Teslas means pads often outlast ICE vehicles, but inspect rotor wear and slide pin condition while apart.

Warnings

⚠️NEVER jack the Model Y on the HV battery pack floor. Use only the manufacturer-specified jack points with puck adapters — striking or compressing the pack can rupture HV cells.
⚠️If you see ANY orange cabling near the work area, stop. Front brakes should not expose orange cables, but route inspection is mandatory before tool use.
Performance trim has larger front rotors/calipers than standard Model Y. Confirm pad part number matches Performance brakes — non-Performance pads will not fit.
Aluminum suspension/knuckle components — do not strike with steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or rubber mallet if persuasion is required.
Disable Sentry Mode and Dashcam in the touchscreen before service. Camera feeds and motion-triggered systems can keep accessories live.
ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If due, perform a full flush rather than just topping off.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-off only if needed)

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on Model Y — refer to architecture notes). This also prevents the parking brake or wheel-speed sensor systems from activating during service.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. In the touchscreen (before disconnecting 12V): enable Service Mode if available, disable Sentry Mode, and put the vehicle in Tow/Transport or Jack Mode if you intend to lift it (Jack Mode disables self-leveling — relevant for air suspension models, not this coil-suspension Model Y, but still good practice).
  7. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
  8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using puck adapters; support on jack stands.
  9. Remove front wheels.
  10. Open hood and remove brake fluid reservoir cap; check level — if near MAX, remove some fluid with a baster to prevent overflow when retracting pistons.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect brake assembly before disassembly
    Visually inspect the caliper, rotor, slide pin boots, and brake hose. Note any torn boots, leaking fluid, scored rotors, or uneven pad wear (which can indicate seized slide pins). Photograph the assembly for reference.
  2. 2
    Remove caliper slide/guide bolts
    Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the inboard side of the caliper. Hold the slide pin with a wrench if it spins, and remove both bolts. The caliper body will separate from the bracket, leaving the bracket and pads in place.
    Do not let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — support it with a bungee or hook to the suspension/coil.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  3. 3
    Lift caliper off and support it
    Carefully slide the caliper body off the pads and rotor. Suspend it from a coil spring or strut with a hook or zip-tie. Do not stress the brake hose.
  4. 4
    Remove old pads and inspect hardware
    Remove inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation of any wear shims, anti-rattle clips, or hardware. Inspect the abutment clips on the bracket — replace if corroded or deformed.
  5. 5
    Inspect and clean slide pins
    Pull the slide pins out of the bracket bores. Wipe off old grease, inspect rubber boots for tears, and check for smooth movement. Re-grease pins with silicone brake grease and reinstall. Replace boots if compromised.
    Do not use petroleum-based grease on slide pin boots — it will swell and destroy the rubber. Use silicone brake grease only.
  6. 6
    Compress caliper piston(s)
    Using a C-clamp or piston compressor tool, slowly retract the caliper piston(s) fully back into the bore. Watch the brake fluid reservoir to ensure it does not overflow. Performance front calipers may have multiple pistons — retract evenly.
    Compress slowly. Forcing pistons can damage seals or push fluid back through the ABS module.
  7. 7
    Clean rotor and bracket
    Spray rotor friction surface with brake cleaner and wipe off any oils or fingerprints. Wire-brush the bracket abutment surfaces where pads contact. Inspect rotor for grooves, lip wear, or heat checking — measure thickness against the minimum stamped on the rotor hat if in doubt.
  8. 8
    Install new pads
    Apply a thin layer of anti-squeal/caliper grease to the pad backing plates where they contact the piston and caliper fingers — NOT on the friction surface. Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket, ensuring any wear sensor (if equipped) is on the correct side.
    Keep grease off the friction surface and rotor. Contaminated pads must be replaced — they cannot be cleaned.
  9. 9
    Reinstall caliper over new pads
    Slide the caliper body back over the new pads onto the bracket. Confirm slide pins move freely. Hand-thread both caliper slide bolts before torquing.
  10. 10
    Torque caliper slide bolts
    Torque both caliper slide pin bolts to specification. Verify boots are seated and not pinched.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Repeat on opposite front wheel
    Perform steps 1–10 on the other front brake assembly.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying torque.
  2. Lower vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star/cross pattern. Verify sequence with service manual.
  4. Top off brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 if needed; reinstall cap.
  5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  6. Close hood.

Verification

  • With the vehicle still stationary and ignition on (brake-by-wire active), pump the brake pedal firmly 5–10 times until pedal feel is firm. The first press will feel soft because pistons are fully retracted — DO NOT drive until pedal is firm.
  • Re-check brake fluid level after pumping; top off to MAX.
  • On the touchscreen, check for any ABS, brake, or traction control warnings. Clear Service Mode if it was enabled.
  • Perform low-speed (5-10 mph) brake tests in a safe area before road use. Listen for scraping, dragging, or pulling.
  • Bed-in the new pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure (typically a series of moderate stops from 35–40 mph, avoiding full stops while hot). Note: Tesla regen braking will reduce pad use during normal driving — be deliberate about bedding-in via friction braking.
  • Recheck lug torque after 50–100 miles.
  • Reminder: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — check service history and schedule a flush if overdue.
  • Reminder: front tires on Model Y Performance wear quickly due to torque and curb weight — rotate every ~6,250 miles.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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