Replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The Performance trim uses larger front rotors and red-painted four-piston fixed calipers, which differ from standard Model Y floating-caliper procedures.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (Model Y Performance-specific) × 1 — OEM Model Y Performance front pad set — verify fitment for Performance fixed-caliper
• Front brake rotors (Model Y Performance-specific, larger diameter) × 2 — OEM Performance front rotor — confirm diameter matches Performance trim
• Caliper bracket bolts (if reuse not allowed by service manual) × 4 — OEM-spec, threadlocked

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-off only if needed) — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under rear seat area — refer to service manual for exact 2024 Model Y location).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enable Service Mode (or at minimum disable Sentry/Cabin Overheat) before disconnecting 12V to prevent fault logging — optional but reduces alerts.
7. If equipped, deactivate Auto-Hold and the electric parking brake via the touchscreen prior to lifting (front brakes only — EPB is on rear, but cycling avoids inadvertent activation).
8. Loosen front lug nuts (21mm) one-quarter turn while wheels are on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using puck adapters; support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
10. Remove front wheels and set aside on rubber mats to protect the finish.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document current brake assembly
   Photograph the caliper, brake line routing, pad wear sensor wiring (if equipped), and hardware orientation before disassembly. Note any uneven pad wear that may indicate a sticking caliper or pin issue.
2. 2

   Open brake fluid reservoir and prepare for piston retraction
   Open the hood (frunk) and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Remove the cap and check level — if near MAX, siphon a small amount into a clean container to prevent overflow when pistons are pushed back. Cover surrounding paint with shop towels.
   ⚠DOT 3 brake fluid strips paint. Cover the frunk tub and fenders.
3. 3

   Retract caliper pistons (Performance fixed caliper)
   On the Performance fixed-caliper front brakes, the pads are retained by retaining pins/anti-rattle hardware accessible through the caliper body. Remove the retaining pin(s) and anti-rattle clip per the service manual. Use a brake piston spreader to gently and evenly retract all pistons on each side back into their bores. Do not lever against the rotor surface — push against the old pad backing plate.
   ⚠Retract pistons evenly — cocking a piston in its bore can damage the seal and cause a leak.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads
   Once pistons are retracted and retaining hardware is out, slide the old pads out of the caliper. If equipped with electronic wear sensors, disconnect the connector before fully removing the pad. Note pad orientation (inner vs outer) for the new set.
5. 5

   Remove caliper from knuckle
   Support the caliper with a wire hanger or bungee from the suspension — never let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the two caliper-to-knuckle mounting bolts. On the Performance front, these are the large bracket bolts torqued to a high value; expect significant breakaway force. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend it.
   ⚠️Never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose — this can damage the hose internally and cause a sudden brake failure later.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove rotor
   If present, remove the small rotor retaining screw (typically Torx). Pull the rotor off the hub. If seized, apply penetrating fluid to the hub center and use a dead-blow mallet on the rotor hat — do NOT strike the friction surface or hub. Some rotors have threaded extraction holes; use appropriate bolts to push the rotor off if needed.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle/hub — do not strike with a steel hammer.
7. 7

   Clean hub face and inspect
   Wire-brush the hub mounting face to remove all rust and debris — any high spot will cause rotor runout and pedal pulsation. Inspect the wheel speed sensor and wiring for damage. A very thin film of anti-seize on the hub center (NOT the friction face or studs) prevents future seizing.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil. Place the rotor on the hub and reinstall the retaining screw if originally fitted. Spin to confirm it sits flush with no wobble.
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper
   Position the caliper over the new rotor and align with the knuckle mounting holes. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolts (or use new bolts if specified by Tesla service procedure). Hand-thread both bolts before torquing. Torque to specification using a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install new pads and retaining hardware
    Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the pad backing-plate contact points and abutment surfaces — never on the friction face. Slide the new pads into the caliper. Reinstall the anti-rattle clip/spring and retaining pin(s) per the manufacturer-specified orientation. Reconnect the wear sensor connector if equipped.
    ⚠Keep all grease, fingerprints, and contaminants off the rotor friction surface and pad face.
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 3 through 10 on the other front wheel. Always replace pads and rotors as an axle pair to maintain even braking.
12. 12

    Pump brake pedal to seat pistons
    Before lowering the vehicle, with the 12V reconnected at the very end is fine — but at minimum, pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it becomes solid. Do NOT skip this — the first pedal press will go to the floor and the car will not stop.
    ⚠️Failure to pump the pedal before driving will result in no front braking on the first stop.
13. 13

    Top off brake fluid and close reservoir
    Check the brake fluid level and adjust to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 from a sealed container. Reinstall the reservoir cap. Wipe down any spilled fluid with water immediately.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before torquing to prevent cross-threading the aluminum hub studs.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern in two passes (half-torque, then full-torque).
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close the frunk and reinstall any covers removed for reservoir access.
6. Re-enable Sentry Mode and exit Service Mode if used.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary and in P, pump the brake pedal until firm — pedal should not sink to the floor.
• Check for brake fluid leaks at the caliper banjo and reservoir.
• Confirm no brake-related alerts on the touchscreen after powering up.
• Perform a low-speed bedding-in procedure per the new pad manufacturer's recommendation (typically a series of 30-to-5 mph and 60-to-15 mph decelerations without coming to a complete stop, then a cool-down). Skipping bed-in causes pad glazing and reduced bite.
• Drive at low speed in a safe area to confirm normal braking, no pulling, no pulsation, and no grinding before highway use.
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after the first 50–100 miles in a star pattern.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage and tire rotation every 6,250 miles — schedule both if due.

More procedures for this vehicle