Rebuild of the front brake calipers on a 2024 Model Y Performance, replacing piston seals, dust boots, and slide pin bushings. The Performance trim uses larger fixed/floating calipers than standard Model Y — confirm caliper type before ordering a rebuild kit.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap) × 2 — OEM-specification rebuild kit for Model Y Performance front caliper
• Caliper slide pin boots and bushings × 2 — OEM-specification (if applicable to caliper design)
• Brake pad set (front) — recommended if pads are worn × 1 — OEM-specification Model Y Performance front pads
• Threadlocker (medium strength, blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Silicone brake grease for slide pins × 1 — Manufacturer-specified silicone caliper grease
• Assembly lube / clean DOT 3 brake fluid for seal install × 1 — DOT 3

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage parking brake (Hold).
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the frunk, remove the trim panel, and disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery negative terminal. (On 2024 Model Y, the 12V is in the frunk area; refer to the on-screen 'Power Off' procedure if available before disconnecting.)
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Put the vehicle in Transport/Tow mode or otherwise disable regen-related auto-hold per the touchscreen before lifting (with 12V reconnected if needed for menu access — then disconnect again before working).
7. Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved jack points with rubber pucks to protect the HV pack and rocker pinch welds. Support on jack stands.
9. Remove front wheels and set aside on the pad side to avoid scratching the finish.
10. Inspect rotors, pads, hoses, and dust boots before disassembly — document any additional issues.

Procedure

1. 1

   Relieve and contain brake fluid
   Open the brake fluid reservoir cap briefly to relieve any pressure, then re-cap. Place a brake hose clamp on the rubber section of the front brake hose to minimize fluid loss when the caliper is opened. Do not clamp any hard line.
   ⚠Do not clamp a hose that shows cracking or bulging — replace it instead.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose and wear sensor (if equipped)
   Place a drain pan under the caliper. Unscrew the banjo bolt or hose fitting at the caliper and cap both ends immediately. If the caliper has a brake pad wear sensor connector, unclip it from the strut/knuckle harness.
3. 3

   Remove the caliper assembly
   Support the caliper to avoid hanging it by the hose. Remove the two caliper-to-bracket bolts (or guide pin bolts on a floating design). Lift the caliper off the rotor.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the caliper bracket
   Remove the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. These are high-torque, threadlocked fasteners — expect significant breakaway force. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
   ⚠Use a 6-point socket and a breaker bar. Stripping these bolts is a common Model 3/Y mistake.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove pads and hardware
   Remove brake pads, anti-rattle clips, and abutment hardware from the bracket. Note orientation for reinstallation. Inspect hardware for corrosion; replace if pitted.
6. 6

   Extract the caliper piston(s)
   With the caliper on a workbench and lined with shop rags, use low-pressure compressed air at the brake hose port to walk the piston(s) out. For multi-piston Performance calipers, block all but one piston at a time with a wood spacer so each piston releases evenly. Catch the piston in rags.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of the piston bore. Pistons can eject with significant force and cause crush injuries.
7. 7

   Remove and inspect seals
   Carefully remove the dust boot and the square-cut piston seal from the caliper bore using a non-marring pick. Do NOT scratch the bore. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion — if present, the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt. Inspect the piston for chrome flaking or pitting; replace if not pristine.
   ⚠A scored bore will not seal even with a new kit. Do not proceed with a rebuild on a damaged caliper.
8. 8

   Clean caliper components
   Clean the caliper body, piston, and bore with fresh brake cleaner and lint-free rags. Blow dry with compressed air. Do not use petroleum solvents, wire brushes, or abrasive pads in the bore.
9. 9

   Install new seals and piston
   Lubricate the new square-cut seal with clean DOT 3 brake fluid (or the assembly lube supplied in the kit) and seat it in the bore groove. Install the new dust boot per the kit instructions. Coat the piston with clean brake fluid and press it squarely into the bore by hand until fully seated. Verify the dust boot lip is captured in both the piston and caliper grooves.
   ⚠A cocked piston will tear the seal. If it doesn't go in with steady hand pressure, stop and re-align.
10. 10

    Service slide pins (floating caliper only)
    If applicable, remove slide pins from the bracket, clean the bores, replace the rubber boots/bushings from the kit, and apply silicone brake grease to the pins. Reinstall and verify free, smooth travel.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Clean old threadlocker from the bracket bolt threads and the knuckle threads. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to new or cleaned bolts. Install the bracket and torque the bolts.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Install pads and caliper
    Install anti-rattle hardware and brake pads in the bracket. Apply a thin film of brake grease to pad backing plate contact points only — never on the friction surface. Position the rebuilt caliper over the pads and rotor and install the caliper bolts.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect brake hose
    Install the brake hose to the caliper using new sealing washers (if banjo style). Tighten to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Remove the hose clamp. Reconnect the wear sensor if equipped.
14. 14

    Bleed the brake system
    Top off the master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Bleed each caliper at the bleeder screw until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Tesla's recommended bleed sequence on Model 3/Y is typically furthest-from-master to closest, but follow the current Tesla Service Manual sequence. Pressure or vacuum bleeding is preferred over pedal bleeding because the iBooster/master arrangement does not respond well to traditional two-person pedal bleeding without Toolbox.
    ⚠A full ABS/iBooster service bleed requires Tesla Toolbox. If the pedal feels spongy after a manual bleed or air entered the ABS module, the vehicle must go to a Tesla-certified shop.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until tires just touch the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Lower vehicle fully to the ground.
2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any removed trim.
3. Top off brake fluid to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3.
4. With the vehicle still stationary, press the brake pedal firmly multiple times until it becomes firm — this seats the new pads/pistons against the rotor. Do not move the vehicle until pedal feel is normal.
5. Re-check brake fluid level and inspect the caliper, hose connection, and bleeder for leaks.
6. If equipped, clear any brake-related alerts from the touchscreen (Service menu) — some warnings will self-clear after a short drive.

Verification

• Pedal must be firm with normal travel before any test drive. Spongy pedal = air still in system; do not drive.
• Perform a low-speed (10–15 mph) brake test in a safe area with no traffic, checking for pull, drag, or unusual noise.
• Bed in new pads (if replaced) per the pad manufacturer's procedure — typically several moderate stops from ~35 mph followed by a cool-down.
• After 25–50 miles, re-check caliper bracket and caliper bolts for movement and inspect for fluid weeping at the hose fitting and bleeder.
• Confirm the Model Y touchscreen shows no ABS, Traction Control, or Brake System warnings. Persistent warnings typically indicate trapped air in the ABS module and require Tesla Toolbox service.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years. Log this service date — your next flush is due 2 years from today regardless of mileage.
• Reminder: Tesla recommends front tire rotation every 6,250 mi on Model Y Performance due to high tire wear — schedule the next rotation accordingly.

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