Replacement of the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Model Y Performance. On this platform, Tesla does not service the bushing separately at the dealer level — the entire lower control arm is typically replaced as an assembly. Pressing a new bushing into the OEM arm requires a hydraulic press and is only recommended if you have the correct support fixtures.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm bushing (OEM or OEM-equivalent) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified bushing for 2024 Model Y front lower control arm — verify by VIN
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — never reuse
• Control arm pivot bolt(s) × 1 — Replace if specified as one-time-use by Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y, the low-voltage battery is located under the rear seat or in the front trunk area depending on build — consult the in-vehicle service mode or Tesla Service Manual for your specific VIN before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen BEFORE disconnecting 12V, so the air/coil suspension self-leveling and rolling protection are disabled (note: Model Y has coil suspension, but Jack Mode still disables related systems).
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld jack points with puck adapters. Support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling routed near the front subframe. If present — STOP.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the existing control arm orientation, ball joint pin direction, and any alignment marks on the inboard pivot bolts. Note the position of the eccentric/cam washers if equipped — these set camber and must be returned to position.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Remove the sway bar link nut at the lower control arm. Hold the stud/shaft with an Allen key to prevent it from spinning. Swing the end link out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove and discard the ball joint cotter pin. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it threaded on by a few turns to protect the threads and catch the knuckle. Use a screw-type ball joint separator (preferred over a pickle fork — pickle forks tear the boot) to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and lower the knuckle off the ball joint stud. Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a bungee or stand — do NOT let it hang on the half-shaft or brake hose.
   ⚠Hanging the knuckle by the half-shaft can damage the inner CV joint on this platform.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Mark and remove the inboard pivot bolt(s)
   Mark the position of any eccentric/cam washers relative to the subframe before removal. Remove the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) securing the arm to the subframe. Penetrating oil may be required if the inner sleeve has bonded to the bolt.
   ⚠If the inner bushing sleeve has seized to the bolt, the bolt may have to be cut. This is common on this platform — plan for replacement bolts.
5. 5

   Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle
   Maneuver the control arm down and out of the subframe pocket. Take it to the bench.
6. 6

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press with appropriately sized receiver/driver cups, support the control arm at the bushing housing (not on the arm body) and press the old bushing out in the manufacturer-specified direction. Do not heat the aluminum control arm with a torch — this anneals the metal and ruins the arm.
   ⚠️Never apply press load to the aluminum arm itself — only to the steel bushing outer sleeve via the receiver cup. Cracking the arm is catastrophic.
7. 7

   Clean and inspect the bushing bore
   Clean the bore with a non-aggressive solvent. Inspect for cracks, ovality, or galling. If the bore is damaged, the entire control arm must be replaced — do not attempt to install a new bushing into a damaged bore.
8. 8

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate the outer sleeve of the new bushing with the bushing manufacturer's specified lubricant (typically a soap-based, NOT petroleum-based, lubricant — petroleum attacks rubber). Align any indexing marks per the bushing manufacturer's instructions. Press in slowly and squarely until the bushing is seated to the specified depth or is flush per the OEM specification.
   ⚠Many performance bushings are voided/clocked — installing them rotated incorrectly will cause harshness and premature failure.
9. 9

   Reinstall the control arm to the subframe
   Position the control arm into the subframe pocket and start the inboard pivot bolt(s) by hand. Reinstall the eccentric/cam washers in their original marked position. Snug the bolt(s) but do NOT final-torque yet — the bushing must be torqued at ride height.
10. 10

    Reconnect the ball joint to the knuckle
    Lift the knuckle back onto the ball joint stud. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse. If the castellations do not align, tighten further (never loosen) until they do.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect the sway bar end link
    Reinstall the sway bar link nut, holding the shaft with an Allen key, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle so full curb weight is on the wheels.
3. With suspension fully loaded at ride height, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. This step is critical — torquing while drooped will pre-load the new bushing in the wrong position.
4. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Wake the vehicle and confirm no suspension/stability fault messages are present on the touchscreen.
7. Exit Jack/Transport Mode.

Verification

• Confirm no chassis, ABS, or stability control faults appear on the touchscreen after first wake-up.
• Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks over expansion joints — a clunk indicates an under-torqued pivot bolt or incorrectly clocked bushing.
• Check steering centering. The wheel should track straight; if it pulls or the steering wheel is off-center, alignment has shifted (expected after this job).
• REQUIRED: Perform a full 4-wheel alignment. Toe and camber on the front of the Model Y will shift any time the lower control arm or its bushing is disturbed. Driving without alignment will chew tires within hundreds of miles — this Model Y already wears tires aggressively due to instant-torque and curb weight; Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi.
• Re-inspect the new cotter pin is fully seated and bent over after the test drive.
• Note: while the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and inspect the cabin filter (2-year interval).

More procedures for this vehicle