Performance Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
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suspension

Control Arm Bushing - Rear

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
10
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace worn rear control arm bushings on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The Model Y rear suspension uses multiple links (toe, camber, trailing arm) — bushings are typically pressed into the arm, so most shops replace the entire arm rather than press individual bushings.

Warnings

⚠️The HV battery pack forms the floor of the Model Y. Use only Tesla-approved jack pad locations — lifting on the pack itself can puncture cells and cause thermal runaway.
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. If you see HV cabling near your work area, stop.
Final torque on control arm bolts MUST be done with suspension loaded at ride height. Torquing bushings in the drooped position will pre-load them and cause premature failure.
Model Y rear suspension geometry is sensitive — an alignment is mandatory after this job.
Aluminum suspension components — do not strike with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow or brass drift.
ℹ️Tesla typically supplies the bushing pre-installed in the arm. Pressing a new bushing into an OEM arm may not be supported — verify availability before disassembly.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under rear seat area on 2024 Model Y — refer to service manual for exact access).
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting — this disables auto-leveling and prevents drivetrain wake events.
  7. Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are on the ground.
  8. Lift rear of vehicle using only Tesla-approved jack points with proper pucks; support on jack stands rated for the curb weight (~4,400 lb).
  9. Remove rear wheel(s) on the affected side.
  10. Identify the specific control arm to be serviced (trailing arm, toe link, camber link, or fore/aft link) and confirm parts on hand match.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Photograph and mark factory positions
    Before disassembly, photograph the suspension and mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts with paint pen. This gives a reference if the alignment shop needs a starting point.
  2. 2
    Support the rear knuckle/hub
    Place a floor jack under the rear knuckle to support the suspension. This prevents the half-shaft and brake hose from being stressed when links are disconnected.
    Do not let the knuckle hang free — it can damage the half-shaft inner CV joint.
  3. 3
    Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
    If the targeted control arm requires sway bar clearance, remove the sway bar end link nut. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Disconnect outboard end of control arm
    Remove the fastener securing the control arm to the rear knuckle. Some Model Y links use a through-bolt with nut; some use a ball joint with a castellated nut and cotter pin. If a cotter pin is present, discard it — a new one is required on reassembly.
    If a ball joint stud is present, separate using a proper ball joint separator — do not pickle-fork an aluminum knuckle.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  5. 5
    Disconnect inboard (subframe) end of control arm
    Remove the inboard control arm bolt securing the arm to the rear subframe. This is the bolt that passes through the bushing being replaced. Note bolt orientation and any cam washers.
    Inboard subframe bolts may be torque-to-yield. Verify single-use status with the Tesla Service Manual before reusing.
  6. 6
    Remove the control arm
    Carefully maneuver the control arm out of the subframe and knuckle brackets. Inspect bushings, ball joints, and the arm itself for cracks, corrosion, or deformation.
  7. 7
    Replace bushing (or install new arm)
    Recommended path: install a new complete control arm with bushing pre-fitted. If pressing a new bushing into the existing arm, use a hydraulic press with proper cups — never strike directly. Lubricate the bushing OD with the manufacturer-specified assembly lube only (no petroleum grease on rubber bushings). Press to the OEM-specified depth/orientation.
    Bushing orientation matters — many Tesla bushings have voids that must align with a specific axis. Refer to service manual.
  8. 8
    Install control arm — start fasteners loose
    Position the control arm and start both inboard (subframe) and outboard (knuckle) fasteners by hand. Do NOT final-torque the inboard bushing bolt yet — bushings must be torqued at ride height to avoid pre-loading.
  9. 9
    Torque outboard fastener
    Torque the outboard ball joint nut or through-bolt to specification. If a ball joint with castellated nut is used, install a NEW cotter pin.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reconnect sway bar link (if removed)
    Reattach sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
  2. Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels (suspension at ride height).
  3. With the vehicle's weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard control arm bolt to specification. This is mandatory for bushing longevity.
  4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  5. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
  6. Allow the vehicle to wake fully and verify no suspension or stability fault messages appear on the center display.

Verification

  • Confirm no warning messages on the touchscreen (suspension, ABS, stability control).
  • With weight on wheels, visually confirm the inboard bolt is fully seated and torqued to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft).
  • Verify outboard ball joint nut is at 88 Nm (65 lb-ft) and a NEW cotter pin is installed if applicable.
  • Verify lug nuts at 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) — re-check after a short test drive.
  • MANDATORY: Take vehicle to an alignment shop familiar with Teslas. Rear toe and camber are highly sensitive on Model Y and incorrect alignment dramatically accelerates the already-high tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi on this platform).
  • Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks or binding. Then highway test for tracking and steering wheel centering.
  • Inspect the bushing area after 100–200 miles for any signs of misalignment or movement.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

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More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
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