Replacement of accessible low-voltage coolant lines on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. This procedure covers only non-HV coolant plumbing (e.g., radiator-to-expansion-tank or front cooling module hoses); any line connecting to the octovalve, superbottle, HV battery loop, or drive units is out of scope.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Replacement coolant line / hose (manufacturer-specified for affected circuit) × 1 — Tesla OEM coolant line — specify by circuit when ordering
• Spring-band or worm-gear hose clamps as applicable × 2 — OEM specification
• O-rings / quick-connect seals (if line uses QC fittings) × 2 — OEM specification — replace any disturbed seal

Fluids

• Tesla Battery/Motor Coolant (G-48 compatible) — 10 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion) battery is located under the rear seat or in the front trunk area depending on build — refer to the in-vehicle service mode location indicator.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Allow the vehicle to sit and cool for a minimum of 2 hours if it has been driven — coolant circuits can hold heat well after shutdown.
7. Place Service Mode in 'Coolant Service' if available via the touchscreen to depressurize the low-voltage cooling loop.
8. Position a coolant catch pan beneath the work area before opening any fitting.
9. Identify the specific coolant line to be replaced and confirm it is part of the front (low-voltage) cooling circuit, not the HV battery / drive unit loop.

Procedure

1. 1

   Raise and support the vehicle
   Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points (reinforced lift pads required to avoid crushing the battery enclosure). Support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Remove front wheels if access to wheel-well lines is required.
   ⚠Use only Tesla-approved lift pads. The HV battery pack forms part of the structural floor — incorrect lifting can puncture it.
2. 2

   Remove front underbody covers
   Remove the front aero underbody panel and any wheel-liner extensions necessary to access the coolant line routing. Note the locations and lengths of fasteners as you remove them — Tesla mixes plastic rivets and metric bolts.
   Torque spec

   Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the frunk tub (if upper line access required)
   Open the frunk, remove trim fasteners around the tub, disconnect any auxiliary connectors, and lift the tub out to expose the front cooling module and reservoir area. Set aside on a clean surface.
   Torque spec

   Cover Screws11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Depressurize and drain the affected coolant circuit
   Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap to relieve any residual pressure. Position the catch pan, then open the lowest accessible drain point on the affected circuit. Allow coolant to drain completely. Capture and properly dispose of used coolant — do not reuse.
   ⚠Coolant is toxic to pets and wildlife. Contain spills immediately.
   ⚠️If the line you intend to open is connected to the octovalve, superbottle, or HV battery loop — STOP. Output is REQUIRES_HV_TRAINING territory.
5. 5

   Disconnect sensors and wiring near the line
   Photograph and disconnect any low-voltage sensor or harness clip that crosses the line being removed (e.g., coolant temperature sensor, level sensor). Move the harness clear and protect connectors from drips.
   Torque spec

   Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Release line retaining brackets
   Remove bolts securing any P-clamps or routing brackets along the coolant line path. Keep hardware organized by location for reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Disconnect the coolant line fittings
   For quick-connect fittings: depress the locking tabs with the proper QC release tool and pull straight off — do not pry. For threaded fittings: hold the mating port with a backup wrench while loosening to avoid twisting the aluminum component. For hose-clamp ends: release the spring or worm-gear clamp and slide off the barb.
   ⚠Plastic quick-connect bodies become brittle with age and heat cycling. If a connector cracks during release, the entire line assembly must be replaced.
8. 8

   Remove the old coolant line
   Carefully extract the line from the vehicle, noting its exact routing — pay attention to how it passes around HV cabling, A/C lines, and harnesses. Photograph the routing before full removal as a reinstallation reference.
   ⚠️Do not allow the removed line or any tool to contact orange HV cabling during extraction.
9. 9

   Inspect mating ports and seals
   Wipe clean all mating surfaces. Inspect O-rings, quick-connect seals, and barb fittings on the components the line connects to. Replace any seal that looks deformed, cut, or hardened. Verify there is no debris in the ports.
10. 10

    Install the new coolant line
    Lubricate new O-rings with a small amount of fresh coolant (do not use petroleum grease). Route the new line exactly as the original — confirm clearance from HV cabling and any moving/heat-producing components. Engage quick-connects fully until you hear and feel a positive click; tug-test each connection to confirm full lock.
    ⚠An incompletely seated quick-connect can hold pressure briefly then blow off under thermal load. Always tug-test.
    Torque spec

    Coolant Line Fittings15 Nm (11 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall hose clamps and routing brackets
    Install fresh hose clamps where applicable (do not reuse spring-band clamps that have been stretched). Reinstall P-clamps and routing brackets in their original positions.
    Torque spec

    Hose Clamps3 Nm (2 lb-ft)

    Bracket Bolts20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect sensors and harness
    Reseat any temperature/level sensors and harness clips. Confirm connectors click home and the locking tabs are engaged.
    Torque spec

    Sensor Bolts11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Vacuum fill and refill the coolant circuit
    Connect a vacuum-fill tool to the reservoir. Pull the system down to the tool manufacturer's specified vacuum and verify it holds — a falling vacuum indicates a leak that must be fixed before filling. Draw in fresh Tesla-spec G-48 coolant until the reservoir reaches the cold-fill mark. Tesla Model Y total system capacity is approximately 10 quarts, but the affected sub-circuit will take only a portion of that.
    ⚠Air pockets in EV coolant loops can cause pump cavitation and inadequate thermal management. Vacuum fill is strongly preferred over gravity fill.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the frunk tub and any trim removed for access, torquing cover screws to specification.
2. Reinstall front underbody aero panels and any wheel-liner extensions.
3. Reinstall the front wheels and torque lug nuts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery, observing terminal order (positive first, then negative).

Verification

• Power on the vehicle and enter Service Mode. Run the coolant system bleed/circulation routine if available; otherwise let the vehicle idle through a thermal cycle.
• After running, recheck reservoir level cold — top up to the cold mark with G-48-spec coolant only.
• Inspect every disturbed fitting and clamp for weeping or drips after the first heat cycle and again after a short test drive.
• Verify no coolant-related alerts appear on the touchscreen (low coolant, thermal system fault, etc.).
• Log the service date and mileage. Tesla recommends battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi — schedule the next inspection accordingly.
• Check for any new error codes via Service Mode before returning the vehicle to service.

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