Replace a rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) end link on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. Straightforward suspension job; the main Tesla-specific concern is avoiding the HV pack underneath and supporting the vehicle correctly given its curb weight.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear sway bar end link (manufacturer-specified for Model Y Performance) × 1 — OEM Tesla rear sway bar link assembly — verify fitment for Model Y Performance AWD

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located behind/under the rear seat area on 2024 Model Y). Follow Tesla's documented disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) BEFORE disconnecting the 12V if you intend to use it; otherwise, leveling will be active until power is removed.
7. Loosen the rear lug nuts on the affected side while the wheel is still on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-approved jack points with rubber pucks. Support on jack stands rated for EV curb weight. Never place jacks or stands under the HV battery pack.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Inspect the new end link against the old one to confirm length, stud orientation, and bushing/boot configuration match before installation.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate the rear sway bar end link
   With the wheel removed, locate the rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) running laterally across the rear subframe. The end link connects the end of the sway bar to a mounting point on the rear suspension knuckle/control arm. Clean the upper and lower nut areas with a wire brush and apply penetrating oil if corrosion is present.
2. 2

   Loosen the upper link nut
   Insert an Allen key into the hex socket at the end of the upper ball stud to hold it stationary. Using an open-end wrench, loosen and remove the upper nut. If the stud spins despite holding the Allen key, apply more axial pressure on the wrench and stud, or grip the stud with locking pliers on a non-sealing surface as a last resort.
   ⚠Do not damage the rubber boot on the ball stud — a torn boot on a reused link will cause premature failure.
3. 3

   Loosen the lower link nut
   Repeat the procedure on the lower end of the link. Hold the stud with an Allen key and remove the nut with a wrench.
4. 4

   Remove the old end link
   Separate the link from both mounting points and remove it from the vehicle. If the studs are stuck in their seats, gently tap the mounting eye (not the stud) with a soft-faced mallet to free them. Inspect the sway bar bushings, bracket, and the knuckle mounting hole for damage or elongation while the link is out.
   ⚠Aluminum suspension components — do not strike with a steel hammer.
5. 5

   Install the new end link
   Position the new link with the correct orientation (compare to the removed part — many links are not symmetric). Insert both studs into their respective mounting holes. Hand-thread both nuts onto the studs to ensure clean engagement. Do not cross-thread.
6. 6

   Torque the link nuts
   Hold each ball stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut with a torque wrench. Tighten both upper and lower nuts to the verified specification. Confirm boots are seated and undamaged.
   ⚠If the stud spins inside the joint while torquing, the nut reading will be false. Stop, re-grip the stud firmly with the Allen key, and re-verify torque.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Inspect surrounding hardware
   While in the area, visually inspect the sway bar bracket bolts, control arm bolts, and strut hardware for any obvious looseness or corrosion. Do not retorque without cause; report any findings. If a sway bar bracket was disturbed, torque to its verified specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any torque.
2. Lower the vehicle until the wheel just contacts the ground, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to Tesla's specified wheel torque (refer to Tesla Service Manual — typically 175 Nm / 129 lb-ft for Model Y, but verify).
3. Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Allow the vehicle to wake and complete its self-check. The touchscreen may show a brief calibration message — this is normal after 12V disconnection.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on the rear corner several times — the suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunking from the link area.
• Take the vehicle on a short low-speed test drive over uneven pavement. Listen for clunks, rattles, or knocks from the rear when traversing bumps or making lane changes — these would indicate a loose link or improperly seated stud.
• Re-check the link nut torques after the test drive while the vehicle is back on stands; any loosening indicates the stud spun during initial torquing.
• Confirm no warnings on the touchscreen related to vehicle dynamics or stability. Tesla's chassis control will not throw a code for a sway bar link, but unusual handling complaints (body roll, looseness in corners) should resolve.
• Note: This is not part of any Tesla scheduled maintenance interval — sway bar links are replaced on condition. While under the vehicle, however, this is a good opportunity to verify tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi on Model Y due to weight and torque).

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