Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The links connect the front sway bar to the strut and commonly fail with clunking noises over bumps; this is a non-HV chassis job but Tesla LV safety steps still apply.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model Y front sway bar link — refer to Tesla parts catalog for current part number
• Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model Y front sway bar link — refer to Tesla parts catalog for current part number

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake via the touchscreen.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y, the 12V (low-voltage) battery is accessed in the front trunk area — remove the frunk liner/cover per service manual and disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front lug nuts (21mm) one-quarter turn while wheels are still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using Tesla-specified front lift points with puck-style adapters to avoid crushing the rocker/battery seal. Support on rated jack stands.
8. Remove both front wheels and set them aside on their sidewalls.
9. Steer the wheels to give clear access to the sway bar links on each side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and prep the link hardware
   Locate the front sway bar end link on each side — it connects the lower end of the strut to the end of the sway bar. Wire-brush the exposed threads on the upper and lower studs. Apply penetrating oil to both nuts and let it soak for several minutes. Identify the size of the nut (commonly 17mm or 19mm) and the hex size on the end of the stud.
2. 2

   Loosen the upper (strut-side) link nut
   Insert the appropriate hex/Allen key into the end of the link stud to keep it from spinning. With the other hand, use a wrench or socket on the nut and break it loose. Remove the nut completely and separate the link from the strut bracket.
   ⚠If the stud spins despite holding it with the hex key, the internal ball is seized. Cut the nut off with a small grinder or air saw rather than damaging the strut bracket.
3. 3

   Loosen the lower (sway-bar-side) link nut
   Repeat the procedure on the lower end where the link attaches to the sway bar: hold the stud with the hex key, remove the nut, and free the link from the sway bar. Remove the link from the vehicle.
4. 4

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Perform steps 2 and 3 on the other side of the vehicle so both old links are removed.
5. 5

   Compare new links to old
   Lay each new link next to the corresponding removed link. Verify overall length, stud orientation (some links are handed), and thread length. Confirm the new nuts and any washers supplied match the originals before installing.
   ℹ️If the new link came with new self-locking nuts, always use the new nuts — do not reuse the old ones.
6. 6

   Install the new link — sway bar end first
   Position the new end link with the correct orientation. Insert the lower stud through the sway bar mounting hole. Thread the nut on by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Snug but do not final-torque yet.
7. 7

   Install the upper end into the strut bracket
   Swing the link up and insert the upper stud through the strut bracket. Thread the nut on by hand. If the link wants to rotate, use the hex key in the stud end to align it.
8. 8

   Torque both link nuts
   Hold the stud stationary with the hex key. Using a calibrated torque wrench, tighten each nut (upper and lower) to the specified value. Confirm the boot has not been pinched or rotated against the mating surface.
   ⚠These are CRITICAL fasteners. Under-torque causes clunking and link failure; over-torque can deform the link housing and destroy the ball joint inside.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Repeat installation on the opposite side
   Install the second new link on the opposite side using the same procedure and torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Visual final check
    With both links installed, verify that each link's boots are intact, the sway bar sits level (not preloaded to one side), and there is clearance between each link and surrounding components (CV boot, brake hose, ABS line) through full steering range. Turn the wheels lock-to-lock by hand and watch for interference.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative). Reinstall the frunk liner/cover.
5. Close the frunk. Allow the vehicle a minute to wake and re-initialize after 12V reconnection.

Verification

• Sit in the driver's seat with the door closed and key present; allow the vehicle to fully boot. Verify no chassis or stability-related alerts on the touchscreen (no ABS, traction control, or vehicle-systems warnings).
• Confirm the steering wheel angle sensor still reads centered when driving straight; if a steering angle warning appears, a brief steering angle re-learn drive (slow figure-eights in an empty lot) typically clears it. Persistent faults require Tesla service.
• Test drive at low speed over uneven pavement and listen for clunks from the front end — properly installed links should be silent.
• At highway speed, verify the vehicle tracks straight and that there is no new vibration or steering wander.
• After 50–100 miles, re-check both link nuts for proper torque using a hex key to hold the stud.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, this is also a good time to check tire wear (Model Y Performance is hard on inner edges), brake pad thickness, and confirm the cabin air filter and brake fluid service intervals (Tesla recommends brake fluid every 2 years and cabin filter every 2 years) are not overdue.

More procedures for this vehicle