Replace the inner tie rod end on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The inner tie rod threads into the steering rack behind the bellows boot and requires removing the outer tie rod end and the rack boot for access. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end assembly (Model Y/Model 3 platform) × 1 — OEM Tesla inner tie rod for 2024 Model Y Performance — order by VIN
• Steering rack bellows boot × 1 — OEM rack boot — replace if torn or stretched during removal
• Boot clamps (inner and outer) × 2 — OEM-style ear or band clamps
• Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y the 12V (low-voltage) battery is located under an access panel — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for exact location on this build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the steering wheel straight-ahead and lock it (steering will be loose once the tie rod is disconnected — do not turn the wheel with the rack unsupported).
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-designated lift points with a hockey puck pad. Support on jack stands. Confirm stability before working underneath.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
10. Schedule a four-wheel alignment appointment — required immediately after this job.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document outer tie rod position
   Before disturbing anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod, or count the visible threads. This provides a baseline toe setting so the car is drivable to the alignment shop. This is a reference only — a full alignment is still required.
2. 2

   Remove the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and discard it. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the stud. Use a tie rod puller (preferred) to separate the taper from the steering knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if the boot is being reused. Once free, remove the castle nut completely.
   ⚠Do not hammer the knuckle — aluminum components can crack. Use a proper separator tool.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Loosen the outer tie rod jam (lock) nut and unthread the outer tie rod
   Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on the flats and loosen the jam nut. Unthread the outer tie rod end while counting exact turns and noting orientation — this preserves rough toe setting. Set the outer aside.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the steering rack bellows boot
   Cut or release the inner and outer boot clamps. Slide the bellows boot off the inner tie rod toward the outer side. Inspect the boot — if torn, stretched, or contaminated, replace it. Wipe any grease from the inner tie rod socket area to expose the wrench flats.
   ℹ️Inspect the rack shaft for nicks, pitting, or fluid (there should be no fluid — this is electric power steering). Any rack damage means the rack itself is suspect.
5. 5

   Unscrew the inner tie rod from the steering rack
   Using an inner tie rod removal tool sized correctly to the inner tie rod hex/flats, hold the rack shaft from rotating (per the manufacturer-specified rack-flat location) and unscrew the inner tie rod counterclockwise. The rack itself MUST NOT be allowed to spin or be twisted under load — damage to internal rack components or the EPS sensor can result. Remove the inner tie rod.
   ⚠️Never use a pipe wrench, vise grips, or other crushing tools on the rack shaft. Doing so can deform the shaft and destroy the steering rack — a multi-thousand-dollar repair.
6. 6

   Inspect rack threads and mating surfaces
   Check the rack shaft internal threads for damage or debris. Confirm the rack is centered (steering wheel was locked straight ahead). Compare the new inner tie rod to the old one — same overall length, same thread pitch, same ball-stud geometry.
7. 7

   Install the new inner tie rod
   Apply thread locker only if specified by the new part's instructions (many OEM inner tie rods come pre-applied). Thread the new inner tie rod into the rack by hand to avoid cross-threading. Using the inner tie rod tool, tighten while again preventing rack rotation. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner tie rod-to-rack torque value (this value is not in the verified list and must not be guessed).
   ⚠Inner tie rod-to-rack torque is critical. Do not use the outer tie rod or castle nut torques as substitutes.
8. 8

   Install the bellows boot
   Slide the bellows boot back into position, seating it into the rack housing groove and onto the inner tie rod groove. Install new clamps on both ends. Ensure the boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear and allow contamination into the rack.
9. 9

   Reinstall the outer tie rod end
   Thread the jam nut onto the inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end back on using the turn count recorded in Step 3 to approximate the original toe. Insert the outer tie rod stud into the steering knuckle.
   ℹ️Do not final-torque the jam nut yet — it is set after alignment.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Torque the outer tie rod castle nut and install new cotter pin
    Install the castle nut onto the outer tie rod stud. Torque the castle nut to spec, then advance (do not back off) to align the next castellation with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over.
    ⚠Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin slot — never back off. Use a new cotter pin every time.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft). Tesla specifies these as critical — re-check torque after the first 50 miles of driving.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Wake the vehicle, confirm no steering or stability-control faults on the touchscreen.
6. Drive carefully and directly to an alignment facility — do not drive long distances on the rough toe setting.
7. After four-wheel alignment is complete, the alignment technician will set the final toe by rotating the inner tie rod, then torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft).

Verification

• Confirm no warning messages on the center display: no 'Steering Assist Reduced', no 'Stability Control Disabled', no EPS faults.
• Steering wheel should be centered when driving straight after alignment. If off-center, alignment was not completed correctly.
• Test at low speed in a safe area: steering should feel symmetric left-to-right with no clunks, binding, or play.
• Inspect the bellows boot after the test drive — it should be properly seated, not twisted, and clamps secure.
• Re-check wheel lug nut torque to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) after 50 miles — required by Tesla.
• Reminder: Model Y Performance tires wear unusually fast due to instant torque and curb weight. Rotate every 6,250 miles per Tesla's recommendation. Any toe error from a missed alignment will accelerate wear dramatically — verify alignment printout shows all values within spec.

More procedures for this vehicle