Replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. This is a chassis-only job — no HV systems involved — but a four-wheel alignment is mandatory afterward.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Model Y, left or right as applicable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model Y outer tie rod end — verify side
• Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model Y this is located under the rear seat / front trunk area per architecture — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for exact location on your build.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Lift the front of the vehicle using only Tesla-designated jacking points with proper puck adapters. Support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Turn the steering wheel to provide clearance to the tie rod end (turn away from the side being serviced).

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark current tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, use a paint marker or calipers to record the exposed thread length between the inner tie rod shaft and the outer tie rod end's lock nut. Also count and record the number of visible threads. This preserves toe setting roughly until the alignment is performed.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft on its wrench flats with an open-end wrench. Loosen (do not remove) the lock nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod shaft. Back it off only enough to allow the outer end to spin off later.
   ⚠Always counter-hold the inner tie rod shaft. Twisting the inner rack shaft can damage the electric power steering rack internals.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   At the steering knuckle, straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end ball stud. Discard the cotter pin. Remove the castle nut from the ball stud.
4. 4

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller to press the ball stud out of the steering knuckle taper. Avoid pickle fork use if you intend to reuse the boot or knuckle seal area on adjacent components — a puller is preferred. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — striking it can crack the casting. Use a press-style separator.
5. 5

   Count and remove the outer tie rod end
   While counting full rotations, unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record the exact turn count — this is the best mechanical reference to set the replacement at the same position before alignment.
6. 6

   Inspect the inner tie rod and boot
   With the outer end removed, inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears, the inner tie rod shaft threads for damage, and check the inner tie rod for play by hand. If the inner is loose or the boot is torn, replace before reassembly — outer-only replacement is wasted labor otherwise.
7. 7

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the lock nut onto the inner shaft first if it was removed, then thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft using the same number of turns recorded in Step 5. Verify the exposed thread length matches your Step 1 measurement as closely as possible.
8. 8

   Seat the ball stud into the steering knuckle
   Insert the new outer tie rod end's ball stud into the steering knuckle taper. Ensure the taper is clean and dry. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification, then advance (do not back off) the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install a new cotter pin
   Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud. Bend the legs to retain. Never reuse a cotter pin.
   ⚠️A missing or reused cotter pin can allow the castle nut to back off, causing loss of steering control.
10. 10

    Snug the lock nut (do NOT final torque yet)
    Snug the tie rod lock nut against the outer tie rod end by hand-tight plus a light turn — just enough to hold position for driving to the alignment shop. Final torque happens after alignment toe is set.
    ⚠Do not torque the lock nut to spec until the alignment technician has finalized toe — otherwise the alignment cannot be properly set.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to wake; verify no chassis or steering warnings on the center display.
6. Drive slowly and carefully directly to an alignment facility — do not drive at highway speeds with an unaligned vehicle.
7. After four-wheel alignment is performed, counter-hold the inner tie rod shaft and torque the tie rod lock nut to specification.

Verification

• Confirm no steering, ABS, or stability-control warnings on the Model Y center display after wake-up.
• Verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight after alignment; if not, alignment was not completed correctly.
• Inspect the new cotter pin is properly bent and the castle nut is fully seated.
• Visually confirm the lock nut is tight against the outer tie rod end after alignment final torque.
• Road test at low speed first — listen for clunks over bumps and verify no pull.
• Note: Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 mi on Model Y due to fast wear from instant torque and curb weight — a good time to schedule the next rotation if due.

More procedures for this vehicle