steering
Tie Rods - Both Sides
for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
12
Steps
10
Replace both outer tie rod ends on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The Model Y uses an electric power steering rack shared with the Model 3 platform; this job affects toe alignment and requires a four-wheel alignment afterward.
Warnings
⚠️If you encounter ANY orange cabling while working under the vehicle, stop immediately. Orange = high voltage and lethal.
⚠Model Y has an aluminum-intensive front structure. Do NOT strike steering knuckles or suspension components with a steel hammer — use a tie rod puller or dead-blow only on steel sub-components.
⚠Lift only at the designated puck points. Lifting on the battery pack edge or pinch welds will damage the HV pack enclosure.
⚠A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after this job. Do not return the vehicle to the road without one — Model Y is extremely sensitive to toe and chews tires when misaligned.
ℹ️Tesla recommends tire rotation every 6,250 miles on Model Y Performance due to instant torque and heavy curb weight. Inspect tire wear during this job and rotate if due.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for EV curb weight ~4,400 lb)Essential
Tesla-approved jack pad pucks (puck-style lift points)Essential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Tie rod end puller / pickle forkEssential
Needle-nose pliers (for cotter pins)Essential
Side cutters / diagonal pliersEssential
Paint marker or thread-marking pen (to record current tie rod position)
Tape measure or digital caliper (to capture pre-removal length)
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Parts
- Outer tie rod end assembly (Model Y / Model 3 platform) × 2 — OEM Tesla outer tie rod end — manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model Y
- Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 2 — OEM-spec cotter pin (do not reuse)
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob (and any paired phone keys) away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the low-voltage battery is accessed in the front trunk area under the maintenance panel — refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the current location and disconnect procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle on the manufacturer-specified jack pucks and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Remove both front wheels.
- Turn the steering wheel to expose each tie rod end as needed during the job. Note: with the 12V disconnected, the steering will not be powered — turn slowly by hand.
Procedure
- 1Document current tie rod positionBefore loosening anything, mark the threads of each inner tie rod where the outer tie rod jam (lock) nut currently sits using a paint marker, and measure the exposed thread length from the lock nut to the end of the inner rod. This gives a baseline toe setting so the vehicle can be driven safely to the alignment shop.
- 2Loosen the tie rod jam (lock) nutHold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench on its flats and loosen the jam/lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Do not fully remove it yet — back it off just enough to allow the outer tie rod to spin off later. Repeat on the opposite side.
- 3Remove cotter pin and castle nut from steering knuckleStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle, then remove the castle nut. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.⚠Do not reuse the cotter pin. A failed cotter pin can allow the tie rod to separate at speed.
- 4Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckleUse a proper tie rod end puller to release the tapered stud from the knuckle. Avoid pickle forks if possible, as they tend to damage the boot of the new part if reused, and can mar the aluminum knuckle. Apply steady pressure until the taper releases.⚠Do not strike the aluminum steering knuckle with a steel hammer.
- 5Count threads and unscrew the outer tie rod endCount the number of full turns required to unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft, and record it. Spin the outer tie rod off completely. Repeat steps 3-5 on the opposite side.
- 6Inspect inner tie rod and bootWith the outer removed, inspect the inner tie rod boot for tears, the inner tie rod for play (rock the shaft up/down and side/side — there should be no perceptible movement at the inner socket), and the threads for damage. Replace inner components if any issue is found — that is a separate job.
- 7Install new outer tie rod endsThread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft using the same number of turns counted during removal. Stop when the lock nut and outer tie rod approximately match the paint mark made earlier. Do not fully tighten the lock nut yet — final torque is set after alignment.
- 8Seat the tie rod stud in the steering knuckleInsert the tapered stud of the new outer tie rod into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Align the castellation with the cotter pin hole — only tighten further to align, never loosen. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to secure.Torque specTie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 9Repeat on opposite sideRepeat steps 7-8 on the other side of the vehicle, ensuring both sides are installed at the same approximate length so the steering wheel will not be grossly off-center when driven to the alignment.
- 10Snug (do not final-torque) the lock nutsSnug the jam/lock nuts against the outer tie rod ends just enough to prevent the outer from spinning during the short drive to alignment. Final torque is applied AFTER alignment is complete.⚠Do NOT final-torque the lock nut yet. The alignment technician must set toe first, then torque the lock nut to spec.
Reassembly
- Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before any are tightened to avoid cross-threading.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual procedure.
- Close the frunk and re-pair the key fob if any wake-up issues occur after 12V reconnection.
- Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment shop. Do not drive at highway speed until alignment is verified.
- After four-wheel alignment is performed, torque the tie rod lock nuts to specification while holding the inner shaft to prevent rotation.
Verification
- Confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight after alignment — Model Y is sensitive and any offset will be noticed immediately.
- Verify no clunking, looseness, or vibration in the steering when going over bumps or making slow lock-to-lock turns.
- Visually confirm new cotter pins are installed and bent on both sides.
- Verify the lock nut is fully torqued post-alignment — a loose lock nut will allow toe to drift and rapidly destroy front tires (a known Model Y issue even when properly maintained).
- Check Tesla service screen for any steering or chassis-related alerts after first drive.
- While the vehicle is up, check tire wear: Model Y Performance tires wear quickly; Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 mi. Schedule rotation if due.
- Note: Brake fluid (DOT 3) is on a 2-year service interval per Tesla's published recommendation — if the vehicle is approaching 2 years from in-service date, schedule that service as well.