suspension

Upper Control Arm - Rear

for 2024 Tesla Model Y Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.5 h

Tools

Steps

Replacement of a rear upper control arm (camber link) on a 2024 Model Y Performance AWD. The rear suspension uses a multi-link design; the upper arm sets camber and must be torqued at ride height to preserve bushing life.

Warnings

⚠️The HV battery pack forms the floor of the vehicle. Only lift at Tesla-designated jack/lift points using rubber pucks. Lifting on the pack case will damage HV cells and can cause thermal runaway.

⚠️If you see any orange cable, HV connector, or pyrofuse near your work area: STOP. This job should not require contact with HV components.

⚠Rear upper control arm sets camber. The vehicle MUST be aligned after this repair — do not return to road service without an alignment.

⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be done at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels) or the bushing will be pre-loaded and fail prematurely.

⚠Model Y uses extensive aluminum suspension components. Do not strike with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or brass drift if persuasion is required.

ℹ️Mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts before disassembly to retain a rough alignment for the drive to the alignment rack.

Tools required

Floor jack with rubber pad/puck adapterEssential

Jack stands (rated for EV curb weight)Essential

Tesla-approved lift pad pucks (to protect HV pack)Essential

Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential

Breaker barEssential

Metric socket set (with deep sockets)Essential

Metric combination wrench setEssential

Allen/hex bit setEssential

Ball joint separator or pickle fork (only if ball-joint style end is used)

Penetrating oil

Paint marker (to index original eccentric/cam bolt position)Essential

Alignment rack (post-repair)Essential

Parts

Rear Upper Control Arm (camber link) assembly × 1 — OEM Tesla Model Y rear upper control arm — confirm by VIN
Replacement control arm hardware (if reuse not permitted by OEM) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified bolt/nut set

Preparation

Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the low-voltage battery is located behind/under the rear seat area — refer to the service manual for exact access on your build.
DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
Place the vehicle in Jack Mode (Controls > Service > Jack Mode) before lifting to disable self-leveling and prevent fault codes. (Coil-sprung Model Y does not have air suspension, but Jack Mode also suppresses other vehicle behaviors.)
Loosen rear lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
Lift the rear of the vehicle at the OEM-designated jack points using rubber pucks; support on jack stands rated for the curb weight.
Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1
Inspect and document
Photograph the rear suspension before disassembly. Note the orientation of the upper control arm, the routing of any wheel speed sensor/parking brake wiring, and the position of any cam/eccentric alignment bolts. Mark eccentric washers with a paint pen relative to the subframe.
2
Support the rear knuckle
Place a floor jack with a wood block or rubber pad under the rear lower control arm/knuckle to support the assembly. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the upper arm is released and keeps the half-shaft and brake hose from being stressed.
⚠Do not let the knuckle hang on the half-shaft, ABS sensor lead, or flexible brake line.
3
Remove obstructing components if needed
If access to the upper control arm inboard or outboard fastener is blocked, temporarily reposition or remove the obstructing item (e.g., wheel speed sensor lead clip, splash shield fasteners). Do not disconnect any orange HV cable or HV harness.
⚠️If access appears to require moving an orange HV cable or pack-mounted component, STOP.
4
Release the outboard end of the upper control arm
Hold the stud and remove the nut at the outboard end of the upper control arm where it attaches to the rear knuckle. If a ball-joint style end is used, separate it from the knuckle using an appropriate separator without striking the aluminum knuckle directly. If it is a through-bolt design, withdraw the bolt straight out.
⚠Do not pry against the aluminum knuckle with sharp tools — surface damage can create stress risers.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5
Release the inboard end of the upper control arm
At the subframe/body bracket, remove the inboard pivot bolt. If equipped with a cam/eccentric bolt, ensure your paint mark is preserved so the eccentric can be reinstalled near its original position. Withdraw the bolt and lift the arm out of the bracket.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6
Remove the upper control arm
Maneuver the arm out of the wheel well. Compare the new arm side-by-side with the original to confirm length, bushing orientation, and ball stud taper match.
7
Install the new upper control arm — inboard first
Position the new arm into the inboard subframe bracket. Install the pivot bolt (with eccentric/cam washer if equipped) hand-tight. Align the cam to the previously marked position to retain a near-stock camber for the drive to alignment.
⚠Do NOT final-torque the inboard pivot bolt at this stage — it must be torqued at ride height.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
8
Install the outboard end into the knuckle
Seat the ball stud (or through-bolt) into the knuckle. Install the nut/bolt and torque to spec. Hold the stud with a hex key on the flats if applicable to prevent spinning.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
9
Reinstall any displaced wiring/clips
Reattach the wheel speed sensor harness clip, brake line clip, or splash shield hardware that was moved for access. Verify nothing is pinched or rubbing against rotating components.
Torque spec
Mounting Bolts27 Nm (20 lb-ft)

Reassembly

Reinstall the rear wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Lower the vehicle so the full curb weight is on the wheels.
With the vehicle at ride height, final-torque the inboard upper control arm pivot bolt to the Control Arm Bolts spec. This is critical — torquing at full droop will pre-load the bushing.
Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the Wheel Lug Nuts spec.
Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery and reinstall any covers/trim removed for access.
Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service).

Verification

Take the vehicle to a four-wheel alignment rack — rear camber and toe MUST be reset after replacing the rear upper control arm. Do not delay this; incorrect camber will chew rear tires within hundreds of miles on a Performance Y.
Check the touchscreen for any chassis or ABS faults after the 12V is reconnected; a brief drive may be required to clear stored codes.
Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and verifying straight-line tracking under light braking.
Re-inspect all fasteners after the first 100 miles, particularly the inboard pivot bolt that was torqued at ride height.
Tesla recommends rear tire rotation every 6,250 miles on Model Y due to high curb weight and instant torque — schedule the next rotation accordingly, especially after any rear suspension service that may have shifted alignment.
While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, this is also a good time to verify brake fluid service interval (Tesla recommends every 2 years) is current.