Replacement of a rear door power window regulator on a 2024 Model Y Performance. The rear door uses a bonded glass-to-regulator interface and a one-piece interior trim panel; care is needed to avoid damaging the vapor barrier and the frameless glass.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear door window regulator assembly (with motor) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model Y rear regulator — verify left vs right side
• Butyl/foam vapor barrier sealant (if barrier is disturbed) × 1 — OEM-equivalent door vapor barrier sealant
• Replacement plastic retainer clips for door card × 1 — OEM-spec door panel clips

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place the vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model Y, the 12V (Li-ion on this build) is located under the rear seat / rear cargo area trim — refer to architecture notes.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before disconnecting the 12V, lower the affected rear window approximately halfway (or fully up — see Step 1) so the regulator-to-glass fasteners can be accessed through the door access holes.
7. Lay a fender cover or blanket over the door sill and rear quarter to protect paint and glass.
8. Identify left vs right regulator — they are not interchangeable.

Procedure

1. 1

   Position and secure the window glass
   Before disconnecting 12V, raise the rear window fully and use strong painter's tape across the top of the glass and onto the door frame to hold it in the up position. This prevents the glass from dropping into the door when the regulator carrier bolts are removed. If the regulator is already failed and the glass cannot be raised, support the glass manually from inside the door once the trim panel is off.
   ⚠Frameless glass will fall freely once regulator clamps are released — taping is mandatory.
2. 2

   Disconnect the 12V battery
   With windows positioned, disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery negative terminal per the safety preamble. Wait 2 minutes before working on door electrical connectors.
   Torque spec

   Battery Terminal Bolts6 Nm (4 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the interior door pull / switch trim
   Using a non-marring plastic trim tool, gently pry up the trim insert at the interior door pull / armrest area to expose the hidden fastener(s) underneath. Disconnect any switch pack electrical connector by releasing its locking tab — do not pull on the wires. Remove the exposed fasteners retaining the door card.
   ℹ️Some connectors have a red secondary lock that must be slid before the primary tab releases.
4. 4

   Detach the rear door card
   Starting at a lower corner, work around the perimeter of the door card with a wide plastic trim tool, releasing the push-pin clips. Lift the panel up and off the window sill. Disconnect any remaining electrical connectors (courtesy lamp, tweeter, switch harness) and set the panel aside on a soft surface, finished side up. Inspect for broken clips and replace as needed.
5. 5

   Peel back the vapor barrier
   Carefully peel the vapor/sound barrier away from the butyl seal only as far as needed to access the regulator and motor. Do not tear the barrier. If the barrier is foam-bonded plastic, work slowly and warm the butyl with mild heat if needed.
6. 6

   Disconnect the regulator motor connector
   Locate the window motor electrical connector inside the door. Release the locking tab and disconnect. Free the harness from any retaining clips along the regulator rail.
7. 7

   Release the glass from the regulator carrier
   Through the door's service access holes, locate the two fasteners or clamp bolts securing the glass to the regulator carrier(s). Loosen them and slide/lift the glass free of the carrier. With the glass still taped to the upper frame, it will remain in place. If working alone, add a second strip of tape for safety.
   ⚠Do not let the glass slip — a falling rear glass can shatter and damage the door inner skin.
8. 8

   Remove the regulator assembly
   Remove the regulator-to-door fasteners (typically perimeter bolts/nuts around the door inner panel that retain the regulator rail and motor). Maneuver the regulator assembly out through the large service opening. Note the orientation of the motor and harness routing for reinstallation. Torque to OEM specification on reinstall — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the regulator-to-door fastener spec.
9. 9

   Compare old and new regulators
   Place the failed regulator next to the replacement and confirm: handedness (LH vs RH), motor connector keying, rail length, and carrier hardware. Transfer any clips or grommets that did not come on the new unit.
10. 10

    Install the new regulator
    Maneuver the new regulator into the door cavity in the same orientation as removed. Start all door fasteners by hand, then snug them in a cross pattern. Final-torque the regulator mounting fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reconnect the motor electrical connector and ensure the locking tab clicks.
11. 11

    Reattach the glass to the carrier
    Lower the glass into the regulator carrier(s) and align the mounting holes. Install the glass-to-carrier fasteners and tighten evenly to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Remove the painter's tape and verify the glass moves freely by hand through its travel before powering up.

Reassembly

1. Re-seal the vapor/sound barrier with fresh butyl sealant where the original adhesive was disturbed — a poor seal will cause wind noise and water intrusion into the cabin.
2. Reconnect any door card harness connectors (switch pack, tweeter, courtesy lamp) and confirm locking tabs seat fully.
3. Align the door card to the upper sill first, then press the perimeter clips home one by one. Reinstall the hidden screws behind the pull handle trim and snap the trim insert back in place.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal and torque to the Battery Terminal Bolts spec. Do not overtighten.
5. Re-initialize the window: with the door closed, hold the switch in the DOWN position until the glass is fully down, hold an additional 1-2 seconds; then hold UP until fully closed and continue holding 1-2 seconds. Repeat if auto-up/down does not function — this teaches the controller the new end stops and re-enables anti-pinch.

Verification

• Cycle the window up and down at least 5 full times — listen for binding, scraping, or motor strain.
• Verify auto-up and auto-down both function from the door switch (and from the driver master switch if the rear is being operated remotely).
• Verify anti-pinch: with the window auto-closing, lightly obstruct the glass with a folded towel — the window should reverse automatically.
• Spray water along the top of the glass and door seal; check the inside of the door card and footwell for any leaks indicating the vapor barrier was not re-sealed properly.
• Confirm no rattles when closing the door firmly.
• Note: while the door is apart is a convenient time to check the cabin air filter service interval (Tesla recommends every 2 years) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi on Model Y Performance due to high tire wear).

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