Replacement of the upper ball joint on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on a modified Lotus Elise/Exige chassis, most front suspension hardware is Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific, and the upper ball joint is integral to the upper control arm/wishbone on most Roadster configurations — verify whether your vehicle uses a serviceable ball joint or requires full upper wishbone replacement before ordering parts.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper ball joint assembly (or complete upper wishbone if non-serviceable) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Roadster upper ball joint — verify against VIN; many Roadster wishbones are Lotus-sourced
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• New pinch bolt (if disturbed) × 1 — OEM-spec single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2.5/Sport with auto-clutch), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the front trunk / forward compartment area on the Roadster — refer to the owner's manual for exact location on your build).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only manufacturer-specified lift points on the aluminum chassis. Support securely on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Inspect the upper wishbone assembly to confirm whether the ball joint is serviceable separately or integral to the wishbone — order the correct part accordingly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Before disassembly, inspect the upper ball joint, boot, and surrounding hardware. Photograph the assembly including any shims, washers, or alignment marks at the upper wishbone mounting points. The Roadster uses shims for camber/caster adjustment at the inboard pivots — note their position and quantity exactly.
2. 2

   Support the upright
   Place a jack under the lower control arm or hub assembly to support the upright once the upper joint is released. Do not allow the upright to hang on the brake hose or ABS line.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar link (if required for access)
   If the sway bar end link interferes with upper wishbone movement, disconnect it at the lower attachment. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Set hardware aside in order.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove cotter pin and loosen ball joint castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen the castle nut but do NOT remove it fully yet — back it off until it sits flush with the end of the stud to protect the threads and prevent the upright from dropping uncontrolled.
   ⚠Discard the old cotter pin — never reuse.
5. 5

   Separate ball joint from upright
   Using a proper ball joint separator (preferred) or a controlled tap on the upright boss with the castle nut still in place, break the taper free. Do NOT strike the ball joint stud directly and do NOT pry against the aluminum upright with excessive force — the Roadster upright is aluminum and easily damaged.
   ⚠Pickle forks will destroy the ball joint boot — only use one if reusing the joint is not planned.
6. 6

   Remove castle nut and free the upright
   Remove the castle nut completely. Lower the upright slightly using your support jack so the ball joint stud clears the upright boss. Secure the upright so it cannot fall outward and stress the brake line.
7. 7

   Remove the ball joint or upper wishbone
   If the ball joint is serviceable separately, remove its retention hardware from the wishbone (typically rivets or fasteners depending on production date) per the OEM service procedure. If it is integral, disconnect the upper wishbone inboard pivots — noting and retaining all alignment shims in their exact stack and position — and remove the wishbone assembly.
   ⚠Camber/caster shims at the inboard wishbone pivots MUST be reinstalled in original quantity and order to preserve baseline alignment.
8. 8

   Install the new ball joint / wishbone
   Install the new ball joint into the wishbone using OEM-specified hardware, or install the new wishbone with all original shims in their documented positions. Hand-tighten the inboard pivot bolts only at this stage — final torque is performed at ride height.
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to upright
   Insert the ball joint stud into the upright. Install a NEW castle nut (or reuse if specified) and torque to spec. Continue tightening to the next slot alignment for the cotter pin if needed — never back off to align. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM practice.
   ⚠️A missing or improperly installed cotter pin can allow the ball joint to separate at speed — verify it is fully seated and bent.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar link (if disconnected)
    Reattach the sway bar end link. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Mount the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the suspension is loaded at normal ride height.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque on suspended-load fasteners
    With the vehicle's weight on the wheels at ride height, final-torque the upper wishbone inboard control arm bolts to specification. Torquing these with the suspension unloaded will pre-stress the bushings and shorten their life.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final wheel torque
    Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the specified value.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Power on the vehicle and verify no suspension/chassis warnings are displayed.
3. Confirm steering moves freely lock-to-lock with no binding or unusual noise.
4. Have a four-wheel alignment performed before road use — Roadster alignment is highly sensitive and any disturbed shim stack must be re-verified.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, grasp the top of the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero play at the upper joint.
• Visually verify the new cotter pin is installed and bent correctly through the castle nut.
• Confirm the ball joint boot is intact and seated, with no pinching.
• Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks over bumps — any noise indicates an under-torqued or misaligned component; re-inspect immediately.
• Complete a four-wheel alignment and record camber/caster/toe values for future reference.
• Note: While the suspension is apart, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid condition — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle