suspension
Ball Joints - Upper and Lower
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
Replace upper and lower ball joints on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note: the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so suspension components and procedures largely follow Lotus service practice rather than later Tesla models.
Warnings
⚠️The Roadster has a high-voltage ESS (battery pack) behind the seats with orange HV cabling routed through the chassis. Do not pierce, cut, or pry against any orange cable or HV junction during this job.
⚠The Roadster body is fiberglass/composite over a bonded aluminum tub. Do NOT strike chassis members with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only. Aluminum cracks rather than dents.
⚠Roadster service documentation is rare. If your specific suspension layout differs from this guidance (e.g. ball joint integrated into upright vs. control arm), STOP and consult a Roadster-experienced specialist before forcing components apart.
⚠Ball joint nuts are CRITICAL fasteners. Always use a NEW cotter pin and torque to spec — never reuse.
ℹ️Wheel alignment WILL be disturbed. Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately after this job — Roadster shimmed/eccentric adjustments are sensitive.
Tools required
Metric socket set (10-22mm)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle fork or tie-rod separatorEssential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Pry bar
Torx and Allen key set
Plastic/rubber mallet (no steel hammer on aluminum)Essential
Alignment shop appointment (post-repair)Essential
Parts
- Upper ball joint (manufacturer-specified for Roadster/Lotus chassis) × 2 — OEM Lotus/Tesla Roadster upper ball joint
- Lower ball joint (manufacturer-specified for Roadster/Lotus chassis) × 2 — OEM Lotus/Tesla Roadster lower ball joint
- New cotter pins for ball joint castle nuts × 4 — Standard size matching OEM nut
- New pinch bolt(s) if equipped × 2 — OEM single-use pinch bolt
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (1st or Reverse) on manual cars or P on automated units, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage auxiliary battery (located in the front trunk/frunk area on the Roadster) before lifting the vehicle. Refer to architecture notes for exact location.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster has dedicated chassis lift pads — DO NOT lift on the aluminum tub directly) and support securely on jack stands.
- Remove the wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
- Take reference photos of suspension geometry, shim placement, and any alignment marks before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and document existing suspensionVisually inspect the upper and lower control arms, ball joint boots, and surrounding hardware. Note any shims, eccentric washers, or alignment marks. Photograph orientation of each ball joint and the routing of the brake line and ABS sensor wire.
- 2Disconnect sway bar linkRemove the sway bar end link from the lower control arm to free the suspension. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Support the lower control armPlace a floor jack under the lower control arm with light upward pressure to control spring/strut load when the ball joints are released. The Roadster uses a coilover-style strut — the lower arm carries the spring reaction.⚠Do not allow the hub assembly to swing freely once both ball joints are disconnected — the brake hose and ABS wire will be damaged.
- 4Remove brake caliper and rotor (if required for access)If the upright must be moved significantly to release the ball joints, unbolt the brake caliper and suspend it from the chassis with mechanic's wire — DO NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the rotor if needed for clearance. Torque to OEM specification on reassembly — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
- 5Release the upper ball jointStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Loosen the nut but leave it threaded a few turns to capture the joint. Use a proper ball joint separator (preferred) to break the taper. Avoid pickle-fork use if the boot is to be reused — but since you are replacing the joint, the fork is acceptable. Once the taper releases, remove the nut fully and separate the joint from the upright.⚠Do not strike the aluminum upright with a steel hammer to free the taper. Use a separator tool.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 6Release the lower ball jointRepeat the cotter-pin and castle-nut removal on the lower ball joint. Maintain jack support of the lower control arm. Use a separator to break the taper, then remove the nut and lower the arm slightly to free the upright.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 7Remove ball joints from control arm or uprightRoadster ball joints may be press-fit into the control arm, threaded, or bolt-in depending on revision. Identify your configuration before forcing anything. For press-fit, use a manufacturer-specified ball joint press. For bolt-in joints, remove the retaining hardware. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual on reinstall.⚠If the joint configuration does not match what you see, STOP and verify against a Lotus Elise/Exige service reference — the Roadster suspension is closely related.
- 8Install new ball jointsInstall the new upper and lower ball joints into the control arm or upright per your configuration. Ensure boots are oriented correctly and not pinched. Apply manufacturer-specified grease if the joint is greasable.
- 9Reconnect upright to control armsInsert the upper and lower ball joint studs into the upright. Install the castle nuts and tighten to spec. Advance the nut (do not back off) to align the cotter pin hole, then install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over fully.⚠️Never back off a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further. A loose ball joint nut can cause loss of vehicle control.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect sway bar linkReinstall the sway bar end link to the lower control arm. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall brake hardware (if removed)Reinstall the rotor and brake caliper if they were removed. Verify brake hose and ABS wire routing is correct and unstressed at full steering lock and full suspension travel.
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then final-torque control arm pivot bolts (if disturbed) with weight on the suspension to set bushing preload at ride height.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Final-torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V auxiliary battery.
- Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary on the ground to settle suspension geometry.
- Verify no warning lights related to ABS or stability systems on the instrument cluster after a short drive.
Verification
- Confirm new cotter pins are installed at both upper and lower ball joints and bent over fully.
- Bounce-test the corner: suspension should compress and rebound without clunking.
- Drive at low speed and check for steering pull, clunks over bumps, or loose feel — investigate immediately if present.
- Schedule a four-wheel alignment within the first few miles. Roadster camber and toe are sensitive and tire wear will be rapid if neglected.
- Re-inspect torque on ball joint nuts and control arm bolts after the first 100-200 miles of driving — any settling can be caught before it becomes a safety issue.
- Note: this is a chassis service, not an electrical system service, so no Tesla published service interval directly applies. However, since the vehicle is on a lift, take the opportunity to inspect brake fluid (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage) and gearbox oil condition (Roadster manual gearbox uses 75W-90 GL-5).