Replace the blower motor control module (resistor/power module) on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster's HVAC system is largely Lotus Elise-derived, with the blower assembly accessed from the passenger footwell area.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Blower motor control module (OEM-spec replacement for 2012 Roadster HVAC) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified blower control/resistor module — verify against your VIN

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place the transmission in neutral or P (as equipped), and engage the parking brake. Chock the wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk/forward compartment area — refer to the owner's manual for exact location on your VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Allow the HVAC system to cool fully if the vehicle was recently driven — the blower control module and surrounding ducting can be hot.
7. Gather the replacement module and confirm it matches the removed part by connector style and resistor/PCB layout.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate the blower motor housing
   From the passenger footwell, locate the HVAC blower housing. On the Roadster, the blower assembly is mounted under the dash on the passenger side, similar to the Lotus Elise layout. The control module is typically mounted to the side of the blower housing so airflow cools its heat sink.
2. 2

   Remove footwell trim as needed
   Carefully remove any passenger-side footwell trim, kick panel, or under-dash cover required to access the blower housing. Use a trim tool — do not pry against painted or carbon-fiber-look surfaces. Set fasteners aside in order.
   ⚠Roadster interior trim clips are fragile and often unique; replace any broken clips rather than reusing.
3. 3

   Identify the control module
   Identify the blower motor control module mounted on or adjacent to the blower housing. It will have a multi-pin electrical connector and typically two small mounting screws securing it to the housing so its heat sink protrudes into the airflow path.
4. 4

   Disconnect the electrical connector
   Release the locking tab on the module's electrical connector and unplug it. Inspect the connector terminals for heat damage, melting, or corrosion. If damage is present, the harness-side connector must also be repaired or replaced — installing a new module into a damaged connector will cause repeat failure.
   ⚠Do not pull on wires; pull on the connector body only.
5. 5

   Remove the module mounting screws
   Remove the screws (typically two) securing the control module to the blower housing. Support the module as the last screw is removed so it does not fall.
6. 6

   Withdraw the module
   Carefully withdraw the module from the blower housing. The heat sink fins extend into the airflow duct — angle the module out the way it went in to avoid bending fins or damaging the housing seal.
7. 7

   Inspect the blower housing and motor
   With the module out, shine a light into the opening and inspect the blower wheel and housing for debris, leaves, or rodent nesting material. Restricted airflow is a common root cause of control module failure. Also check that the blower wheel spins freely by hand.
   ℹ️If the blower motor itself drags or the wheel is damaged, replace the blower assembly as well — a failing motor will quickly destroy a new control module.
8. 8

   Compare and prepare the new module
   Place the new module next to the old one. Confirm identical connector keying, pin count, mounting hole pattern, and heat sink shape before installation. Do not modify either part to make it fit.
9. 9

   Install the new module
   Insert the new module into the housing in the same orientation as removed, ensuring the heat sink is fully seated in the airflow path and any gasket/seal is properly positioned.
10. 10

    Torque the mounting screws
    Install the module mounting screws and tighten evenly. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the 2012 Roadster (these are small machine screws into a plastic housing; do not overtighten or the housing bosses will strip).
    ⚠No verified torque value exists for these specific small fasteners — snug only, do not apply general 'bracket bolt' torque.
11. 11

    Reconnect the electrical connector
    Plug the harness connector firmly into the new module until the locking tab clicks. Verify the connector is fully seated and the lock is engaged.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall any footwell trim, kick panel, or under-dash cover removed for access. Ensure all trim clips are fully engaged.
2. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. Torque the battery terminal bolts per Battery Terminal Bolts spec (6.0 Nm / 4.0 lb-ft) — do not overtighten.
3. Close the front compartment / battery access cover.
4. Allow a few minutes after reconnecting 12V before attempting to operate HVAC, so vehicle electronics can re-initialize.

Verification

• Power the vehicle on (READY) and turn the climate system on.
• Cycle the blower through ALL fan speeds (low, all intermediate steps, high). Each speed must produce a distinctly different airflow level — if low or mid speeds are missing but high works, the module or its harness is still faulty.
• Run the blower on high for several minutes and verify there is no burning smell, no intermittent dropout, and the module/connector area remains at a normal temperature.
• Verify no new HVAC fault indications appear on the dash/center display.
• While the dash is apart is also a good time to inspect/replace the cabin air filter — Tesla recommends cabin filter replacement approximately every 2 years.
• Reinstall any remaining trim and confirm no rattles in the passenger footwell area.

More procedures for this vehicle