Complete brake fluid bleed on all four corners of the 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, the brake hydraulic system is conventional and largely Lotus-derived — there is no integrated electronic brake booster or iBooster module to scan-tool bleed, making this a straightforward two-person manual bleed.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Bleeder screw dust caps (replace if cracked or missing) × 4 — OEM specification

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. TESLA SAFETY PREAMBLE: Park on level ground, place the transmission in neutral or 1st gear (manual gearbox on early Roadsters), and engage the parking brake firmly.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the Roadster's front trunk / under the front clamshell area — refer to the owner's manual for exact location on this chassis). Disconnect negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Confirm you have at least 1 quart of fresh, sealed DOT 3 brake fluid on hand.
7. Loosen all four lug nuts a half-turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points (Lotus Elise jacking points apply to this chassis — consult the service manual; do NOT lift on the floor pan, sills, or HV battery enclosure) and support on four jack stands.
9. Remove all four wheels and set aside on a non-marring surface.
10. Inspect each caliper bleeder screw for corrosion. If a bleeder is seized, stop and address that before proceeding — a snapped bleeder screw will require caliper removal.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and top off the master cylinder reservoir
   Locate the brake master cylinder reservoir (front compartment on the Roadster). Clean around the cap before opening. Use a clean turkey baster or extractor to remove old, dark fluid from the reservoir, then refill to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Do NOT let the reservoir run dry at any point during the bleed — air introduced at the master cylinder will require a much longer bleed procedure.
   ⚠Do not allow the reservoir to drop below MIN during the bleed or you will introduce air into the master cylinder.
2. 2

   Identify bleed sequence
   Consult the official Tesla Roadster Service Manual for the manufacturer-specified bleed sequence. A common sequence on Lotus-platform vehicles is the corner farthest from the master cylinder first, but this MUST be verified against the service manual before starting. Do not assume a generic sequence.
   ⚠An incorrect bleed sequence can leave air trapped in the system, resulting in a soft pedal or partial brake failure.
3. 3

   Prepare the first caliper
   At the first corner per the verified sequence, remove the rubber dust cap from the bleeder screw. Clean the bleeder fitting with brake cleaner. Attach a clear bleed hose to the bleeder nipple and route the other end into a catch bottle containing a small amount of fresh brake fluid (so the hose end is submerged) or use a one-way check-valve hose.
4. 4

   Bleed the first corner
   If using the two-person manual method: Have the assistant slowly press and hold the brake pedal. Crack the bleeder screw open about a quarter turn — fluid and air will exit through the hose. Close the bleeder before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat until the fluid running through the clear hose is free of air bubbles and looks clean. If using a pressure or vacuum bleeder, follow the tool manufacturer's instructions. Check and top off the reservoir after every 2-3 pedal cycles.
   ⚠Do not overtighten the bleeder screw. The bleeder is a brass/steel fitting in an aluminum or cast caliper body — overtightening will strip threads or snap the bleeder.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Final torque on first bleeder
   With the pedal released, snug the bleeder screw and torque to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft). Wipe away any residual fluid with a clean rag and reinstall the rubber dust cap.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Repeat for the second corner in sequence
   Move to the next corner in the verified bleed sequence. Top off the reservoir, then repeat the bleed procedure exactly as performed on the first corner until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) and replace the dust cap.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Repeat for the third corner in sequence
   Move to the third corner in the verified bleed sequence. Top off the reservoir and bleed until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) and replace the dust cap.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Bleed the final corner
   Move to the final corner in the verified bleed sequence. Top off the reservoir and bleed until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) and replace the dust cap.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Final reservoir level check
   Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Wipe the cap and surrounding area clean, then reinstall the cap firmly. Do not overfill above MAX — fluid expands as the system warms.
10. 10

    Pedal feel test (vehicle still on stands)
    Before lowering the vehicle, slowly press the brake pedal multiple times. The pedal should become firm within 1-2 strokes and hold steady pressure without sinking. A spongy or sinking pedal indicates air is still in the system — repeat the bleed sequence. Do not move the vehicle until the pedal is firm.
    ⚠️A soft or sinking pedal means inadequate braking. Do not drive the vehicle until the pedal is firm and consistent.

Reassembly

1. Verify all four bleeder screws are torqued to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft) and dust caps are installed.
2. Inspect under each caliper for any fluid leaks. Clean any drips with brake cleaner.
3. Reinstall all four wheels.
4. Hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
5. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
6. Final torque all lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
7. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive terminal first, then negative).

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground and engine/HV system NOT yet activated, press the brake pedal firmly several times — pedal must be firm and high, not spongy or sinking.
• Power up the vehicle and verify no brake-related warning lights or messages on the instrument cluster (ABS, brake fluid level, etc.). The Roadster's dash is simpler than modern Teslas — check for any amber/red brake icons.
• Perform a low-speed test drive (under 10 mph) in a safe area and apply brakes gently to confirm normal stopping behavior before driving at road speeds.
• Gradually increase test speeds, verifying straight-line braking with no pulling, no pedal pulsation, and no abnormal noise.
• Re-inspect each caliper and the master cylinder reservoir for leaks after the test drive.
• Record the service date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. Set a reminder for the next interval.

More procedures for this vehicle