Replace the brake caliper mounting bracket on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, so brake hardware is largely Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Brake caliper bracket (manufacturer-specified for 2012 Roadster) × 1 — OEM Lotus/Tesla Roadster brake caliper bracket — verify side and front/rear
• Copper crush washers (only if banjo bolt is disturbed) × 2 — OEM crush washer for brake hose banjo

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (only if hydraulic system is opened) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed early units), engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the Roadster's front service compartment / under the front clamshell area — refer to owner documentation for exact access).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. The Roadster's HV pack runs through the central spine of the chassis.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the affected corner while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the vehicle using OEM-specified lift points (the Roadster has specific reinforced jacking points on the aluminum chassis — do NOT lift on the chassis floor or composite body) and support on jack stands.
8. Remove the wheel and set aside.
9. Inspect the surrounding area: brake hose condition, ABS sensor wiring routing, and bracket-to-knuckle mating surface.

Procedure

1. 1

   Identify bracket type and bolt configuration
   Confirm whether you are working on a front or rear caliper bracket — torque specs differ. Photograph the assembly before disassembly to document hose routing, ABS sensor cable routing, and any anti-rattle hardware.
   ⚠Front and rear caliper bracket bolts have different torque values. Do not mix them up.
2. 2

   Remove brake pads and caliper
   Remove the caliper slide pin bolts (or caliper mounting bolts depending on caliper design) to free the caliper body from the bracket. Suspend the caliper from the suspension using a hanger or bungee — never let it hang by the brake hose.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove brake pads from bracket
   Slide the brake pads out of the bracket. Inspect pads for wear — if pads are at or near minimum thickness, replace them while the assembly is open. Note the position of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reinstallation.
4. 4

   Decide whether to disconnect the brake hose
   If the bracket can be removed without disturbing the brake hose (caliper hung aside), proceed without opening the hydraulic system. If the hose must be disconnected, place a catch pan, remove the banjo bolt, and discard the copper washers — they must be replaced. A hydraulic disconnect mandates a full bleed afterward.
   ⚠DOT 3 brake fluid is corrosive to paint and finishes. Cap the open hose and bracket port immediately to prevent contamination.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt41 Nm (30 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the caliper bracket bolts
   Using a breaker bar, loosen the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle / hub carrier. These are typically installed with thread locker and will require significant force. Support the bracket as the second bolt comes free.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torqued to 102–120 Nm and may be locked with threadlocker. Use proper tools — slipping a wrench near the aluminum upright can damage it.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the bracket and clean mating surface
   Lift the bracket off the knuckle. Wire-brush the bolt threads in the knuckle and clean the bracket mating face with brake cleaner. Inspect the knuckle threads — if damaged, STOP and consult the manufacturer-specified service manual; do not chase aluminum threads aggressively.
7. 7

   Compare old and new bracket
   Place the new bracket next to the old one and verify identical geometry, mounting hole spacing, pad abutment surfaces, and side-specific features. The Roadster shares hardware with the Lotus Elise — incorrect supersession is possible. Do not install if there is any mismatch.
8. 8

   Install the new caliper bracket
   Position the new bracket on the knuckle. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the bracket bolt threads (front bolts: threadlocker recommended per spec). Hand-thread both bolts fully before torquing to avoid cross-threading the aluminum upright.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Torque the bracket bolts
   Torque the bracket bolts to specification — use the FRONT spec for front corners and the standard bracket spec for rear, per the verified torque list. Torque sequence should be verified with the service manual for this vehicle.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall brake pads
    Reinstall the brake pads (and any anti-rattle hardware/shims) into the new bracket in the same orientation as removed. Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to pad abutment points and slide pin contact areas — never on the friction surface.
11. 11

    Reinstall caliper
    Mount the caliper over the pads onto the bracket. Apply thread locker to caliper bolts as specified. Torque caliper slide pin bolts or caliper mounting bolts per the verified spec.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Caliper Mounting Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect and bleed brake hose (if disconnected)
    If the banjo bolt was removed, install with NEW copper crush washers on each side of the hose fitting. Torque the banjo bolt to spec. Bleed the brake circuit at the bleeder screw using fresh DOT 3 fluid until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Do not overtighten the bleeder.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt41 Nm (30 lb-ft)

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to spec.
3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
4. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 if the system was opened.
5. With the vehicle stationary and engine/HV off, pump the brake pedal until firm before attempting to move the vehicle.

Verification

• Confirm a firm, high brake pedal before driving — a soft pedal indicates air in the system or an unbled circuit.
• Inspect the bracket-to-knuckle joint and any disturbed hose fitting for leaks after first application of the brakes.
• Perform low-speed brake tests (5–10 mph) in a safe area before normal driving — listen for any scraping, ticking, or pull.
• After 50–100 miles, re-check bracket bolt torque and inspect for any fluid weeping at the banjo fitting if it was opened.
• Note: if brake fluid was opened or is older than 2 years, perform a full system flush — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.
• Verify wheel lug nut torque after the first 50 miles per general best practice.

More procedures for this vehicle