brakes
Brake Caliper - Front
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
13
Replace a front brake caliper on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note: the Roadster is built on a Lotus Elise-derived chassis, so front brake hardware is largely Lotus/AP Racing-style rather than Tesla-specific — confirm exact components against the Roadster Service Manual before ordering parts.
Warnings
⚠️The Tesla Roadster is an HV electric vehicle. Even though the brake system is non-HV, the HV pack and orange cabling run through the chassis. Do not pierce, cut, or pry against any orange cable or HV component.
⚠Roadster body panels are composite/aluminum and the chassis is bonded/riveted aluminum (Lotus-derived). Do not strike body or chassis with a hammer and do not use the sills as jacking points — use only the manufacturer-specified jack pads.
⚠Brake fluid is hygroscopic and damages paint/composite. Cover bodywork and never reuse old fluid. Use only fresh, sealed DOT 3.
ℹ️Service info for the 2012 Roadster is rare. If any fastener, line routing, or torque value differs from this guide, defer to the Tesla Roadster Service Manual rather than guessing.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Lug wrench / 19mm socketEssential
Metric socket setEssential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Flare-nut (line) wrench setEssential
Torque wrench (5–25 Nm range)Essential
Torque wrench (40–150 Nm range)Essential
Brake fluid catch bottle and clear hoseEssential
Brake bleeder wrenchEssential
Brake cleaner
Threadlocker (medium-strength, blue)Essential
Shop rags / fender covers
Pressure or vacuum brake bleeder (or assistant for two-person bleed)
Parts
- Front brake caliper (Roadster-spec, side-specific) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster front caliper — confirm left vs right; many Roadster front calipers share Lotus Elise/Exige hardware but verify before ordering
- Copper sealing washers for brake hose banjo × 2 — Manufacturer-specified copper crush washers — replace any time banjo is disturbed
- Brake pads (inspect; replace if contaminated or worn) × 1 — Roadster front pad set — OEM specification
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed, fresh container) — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on units so equipped), and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front service area — refer to the Roadster Owner/Service Manual for exact location and disconnection sequence).
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the car is still on the ground.
- Lift the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jack points and support securely on jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
- Place a drip pan under the caliper and have rags ready — brake fluid will escape when the hose is disconnected.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and documentPhotograph the caliper, brake hose routing, banjo orientation, and any anti-rattle clips or pad retainers before disassembly. The Roadster uses Lotus-derived hardware that is not always intuitive on reassembly.
- 2Relieve residual brake pressureWith the 12V disconnected and the system at rest, gently crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper to relieve any residual line pressure, then re-snug it. This minimizes fluid spray when the banjo is removed.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect the brake hose at the caliperPlace a catch container under the caliper. Using a correctly sized wrench, remove the banjo bolt securing the flexible brake hose to the caliper body. Capture the two copper sealing washers (one each side of the banjo fitting) and discard them — they must be replaced. Cap or plug the hose end immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination.⚠Do not let the hose dangle by its fitting. Support it so the flex line is not stressed or kinked.
- 4Remove the brake padsRemove any pad retaining pins, clips, or anti-rattle springs per the Roadster Service Manual, then slide the pads out of the caliper. Inspect pads and rotor; replace pads if contaminated with brake fluid.
- 5Unbolt the caliper from its mountingThe Roadster front caliper is a fixed (opposed-piston) caliper bolted directly to the upright/knuckle. Support the caliper, then remove the two caliper mounting bolts. Use the verified front caliper bracket bolt torque on reinstallation. Note bolt orientation and any shims for reassembly.⚠These bolts are high-torque and may have factory threadlocker. Use a properly sized 6-point socket to avoid rounding.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
- 6Remove the caliper from the rotorSlide the caliper straight off the rotor. Inspect the rotor for scoring, heat checking, or runout — replace or machine to OEM spec if out of tolerance.
- 7Prepare the replacement caliperCompare the new caliper side-by-side with the old one: piston count, mounting ear spacing, bleeder location (must be at the top once installed), and hose port orientation. Confirm it is the correct side (left vs right). Transfer any required hardware per the service manual.⚠Installing a caliper with the bleeder on the bottom makes proper bleeding impossible and will leave air trapped in the caliper.
- 8Install the new caliperPosition the new caliper over the rotor and align with the mounting holes on the upright. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the mounting bolt threads (unless bolts are pre-applied patch type — in that case replace bolts per OEM spec). Hand-thread both bolts fully before torquing.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
- 9Torque the caliper mounting boltsTorque both front caliper mounting bolts evenly, in the sequence specified by the Roadster Service Manual, to the verified specification.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
- 10Install brake padsInstall pads (new or inspected reusable pads) along with all retaining pins, clips, and anti-rattle springs in their original positions.
- 11Reconnect the brake hose with new copper washersInstall the brake hose banjo fitting onto the new caliper using two NEW copper sealing washers (one on each side of the banjo eye). Start the banjo bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque to the verified banjo specification. Verify the hose is not twisted and has clearance through full steering and suspension travel.⚠Never reuse copper washers — they will weep fluid even if they appear undamaged.
- 12Bleed the caliperReconnect the 12V battery only if needed for reservoir level checking; otherwise keep disconnected during the mechanical bleed. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3. Bleed the replaced caliper using pressure, vacuum, or two-person pedal method per the Roadster Service Manual sequence (typically furthest from master cylinder first). Continue until clean, bubble-free fluid emerges. Torque the bleeder screw carefully — it is easy to strip.⚠Do not let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding or you will introduce air into the entire system.ℹ️Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage — if it has been longer, bleed the entire system, not just this caliper.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 13Final fluid level and leak checkTop off the reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3. With wheels off, have an assistant apply firm, steady brake pedal pressure while you visually inspect the banjo fitting and bleeder for any seepage. Wipe the area dry and re-check after several pedal applications.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery if it was still disconnected.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- With the vehicle stationary, pump the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm — this seats the pads against the rotor and restores pedal travel. Do NOT attempt to drive until pedal is firm.
- Re-check master cylinder fluid level and top off to MAX with fresh DOT 3.
- Clean any spilled brake fluid from suspension, wheel, and bodywork with brake cleaner and water.
Verification
- Pedal must be firm and high after pumping — a soft or sinking pedal indicates air remaining in the system or a leak; do not drive.
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe, empty area: start at 5–10 mph and confirm straight, even braking with no pull, noise, or vibration before increasing speed.
- Bed in the brake pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure (typical: a series of moderate stops from ~30 mph, allowing cool-down between).
- After the first short drive, re-inspect the banjo fitting, bleeder, and hose routing for leaks or rubbing, and re-check the reservoir level.
- Re-torque wheel lug nuts after approximately 50 miles in the star pattern to the verified specification.
- Note Tesla's published recommendation to flush brake fluid every 2 years — record this service date so the next flush can be scheduled.