brakes
Brake Pads - Front
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
11
Steps
9
Replace the front brake pads on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, the front brake hardware is largely Lotus/AP Racing-derived rather than Tesla-specific, and service procedures differ significantly from later Tesla models.
Warnings
⚠️The Tesla Roadster has high-voltage components routed through the chassis. While the front brakes are not HV, do not pierce, cut, or disturb any orange cabling encountered during the job.
⚠The Roadster uses a Lotus-derived bonded/riveted aluminum chassis. Do not strike suspension or chassis components with a hammer — aluminum cracks rather than deforms.
⚠Front calipers on the Roadster are typically fixed-mount AP Racing opposed-piston units (not sliding calipers). Procedure differs from typical sliding-caliper pad replacement — verify your specific caliper type before proceeding.
⚠Roadster service information is rare. If your caliper hardware does not match the description below (e.g., you have sliding calipers), STOP and consult a Roadster specialist or the Tesla Roadster Service Manual.
ℹ️Brake fluid is hygroscopic and damages paint. Tesla recommends a brake fluid flush every 2 years regardless of mileage — consider performing one if overdue.
Tools required
Metric socket setEssential
Torque wrench (5-150 Nm range)Essential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Lug nut socket (vehicle-specific)Essential
C-clamp or caliper piston spreaderEssential
Brake cleaner
Wire brush
Turkey baster or fluid syringe (for brake reservoir)
Thread locker (medium strength)
Silicone brake grease / caliper slide grease
Anti-squeal compound or shims (as applicable)
Parts
- Front brake pad set (Roadster-specific, AP Racing 4-piston caliper application) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster front pad set or equivalent AP Racing replacement — verify against vehicle
- Pad retaining pins / R-clips (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM specification
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid (top-up only if needed)
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in neutral or P (depending on transmission), and engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk/service area — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location and disconnection procedure.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (Roadster jacking pads — do NOT lift on the chassis extrusions or battery enclosure) and support securely on jack stands.
- Remove front wheels and set aside on a soft surface to protect finishes.
- Inspect the brake fluid reservoir level. If full, remove a small amount with a syringe before pushing pistons back to prevent overflow.
- Visually inspect rotors, dust boots, flexible brake hoses, and caliper bodies for damage or leaks before disassembly.
Procedure
- 1Identify caliper typeInspect the front caliper. The 2012 Roadster typically uses a fixed opposed-piston caliper (AP Racing-style) retained by two large bracket bolts to the upright, with brake pads held in place by retaining pins and an anti-rattle clip/spring. If your caliper instead has slide pins and a floating bracket, follow the slide-caliper variant of this procedure and verify torques against the Roadster Service Manual before proceeding.
- 2Remove pad retaining hardwareOn the fixed caliper, remove the R-clips (cotter pins) from the pad retaining pins, then slide the retaining pins out through the caliper body. Remove the anti-rattle spring/clip and set hardware aside in order. Inspect pins for grooving or corrosion — replace if damaged.⚠Pad pins can be tight; tap gently with a brass drift if needed. Do not use steel hammers directly on caliper aluminum.
- 3Push pistons backBefore removing pads, use a piston spreader or wide flat tool to gently and evenly press all caliper pistons back into their bores. On opposed-piston calipers, work both sides simultaneously to avoid cocking a piston. Watch the brake fluid reservoir level — siphon off fluid if it approaches the MAX line.⚠Do not pry directly against rotor friction surfaces with metal tools — use a wood block or plastic spreader.
- 4Remove old padsSlide the old brake pads up and out of the caliper body. Note the orientation of any wear sensors, shims, or pad backing plate clips. If a pad is stuck, gently rock it free — do not pry against the rotor.
- 5Inspect caliper and rotorInspect piston dust boots for tears, caliper body for fluid weeping, and rotor for scoring, heat checking, or excessive wear. Measure rotor thickness against the minimum spec stamped on the rotor hat. Clean the caliper pad abutment areas with a wire brush and brake cleaner.ℹ️If rotor is below minimum thickness or shows heat damage, replace before installing new pads.
- 6Install new padsApply a thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pad backing plate contact points and to the pad ear/abutment surfaces — never on the friction face. Install new pads into the caliper in the same orientation as the originals. Confirm both pads sit flat against the pistons with no binding.⚠Keep all grease and contaminants off the pad friction surface and rotor face.
- 7Reinstall pad retaining hardwareReinstall the anti-rattle spring/clip in its original orientation, then slide the retaining pins through the caliper body and pad backing plate holes. Secure each pin with a new R-clip / cotter pin. Confirm pads cannot move axially out of the caliper.
- 8Repeat on opposite sideRepeat steps 2 through 7 on the opposite front caliper. Always service brakes in axle pairs — never replace pads on only one side of an axle.
- 9Pump brake pedal to seat padsBefore lowering the vehicle, with the 12V reconnected (or after reassembly), pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly multiple times until it becomes firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads. Top up the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid to the MAX line.⚠️Do not move the vehicle until the brake pedal is firm. Initial pedal travel will be long until pistons take up clearance.
Reassembly
- If the caliper bracket was removed for any reason (not required for a pad-only job), reinstall using thread locker and torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Roadster Service Manual.
- Reinstall front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before any are tightened.
- Lower vehicle to the ground.
- Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 12V battery.
- Top off brake fluid reservoir with DOT 3 to the MAX line and verify cap is sealed.
Verification
- With the vehicle stationary, pump the brake pedal until firm — pedal should not sink slowly under steady pressure (a sinking pedal indicates a master cylinder or hydraulic leak).
- Inspect for any brake fluid leakage at the calipers and flexible hoses.
- Perform a low-speed bedding-in procedure per the brake pad manufacturer's instructions (typically 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph followed by a cool-down). Avoid hard stops until pads are bedded.
- Listen for unusual scraping, grinding, or rubbing when rolling the vehicle — pads should not drag on the rotor.
- Confirm no brake warning lights remain illuminated on the Roadster's instrument cluster after a short test drive.
- Reminder: Tesla recommends a brake fluid service every 2 years regardless of mileage. If overdue, schedule a full flush with fresh DOT 3.