Rebuild the front brake calipers on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, the front calipers are Brembo-style aluminum 4-piston fixed calipers sourced from Lotus — not Tesla-specific units. This procedure covers caliper removal, seal/piston replacement, and reinstallation.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots) — Lotus Elise/Tesla Roadster front caliper × 2 — OEM Lotus/Tesla Roadster front caliper seal kit — verify against your specific caliper casting
• Caliper pistons (if scored or corroded) × 8 — OEM specification — match caliper bore size
• Front brake pads (recommended while caliper is off) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster / Lotus Elise front pad set
• Copper crush washers for banjo fitting (if applicable) × 4 — OEM specification — size to banjo bolt
• Silicone brake grease / caliper assembly lube × 1 — Brake-rated silicone grease

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P if equipped), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location and disconnect procedure.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front lug nuts while the wheels are on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster's bonded aluminum chassis is easily damaged) and support securely on jack stands.
8. Remove both front wheels.
9. Place a drain pan beneath each caliper to catch brake fluid.
10. Have replacement DOT 3 brake fluid and a rebuild kit ready before opening any hydraulic line.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document caliper configuration
   Before disassembly, photograph each caliper from multiple angles. The Roadster's front calipers are a Lotus-derived fixed (non-sliding) 4-piston design on most units. Confirm whether your caliper uses a banjo fitting or threaded line fitting, and whether pad retention is via pins or a bolt-on retainer. Note any anti-rattle clips or shims for correct reassembly.
   ⚠If your caliper is a sliding/single-piston design rather than fixed 4-piston, this procedure's slide-pin and bracket steps may apply differently. Verify against your actual hardware.
2. 2

   Disconnect the brake hydraulic line
   Using a flare-nut/line wrench, loosen the brake line fitting at the caliper. If a banjo bolt is used, support the banjo with a backup wrench while loosening. Cap or plug the line immediately to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Discard banjo crush washers if equipped — these are single-use.
   ⚠Never use a standard open-end wrench on hydraulic fittings — it will round the soft fitting.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the brake pads
   Remove pad retaining pins, clips, or retainer bolt as applicable. Slide the pads out of the caliper. Inspect pads for thickness and uneven wear; replace if at or below the manufacturer-specified minimum.
4. 4

   Remove the caliper from the knuckle
   Support the caliper with one hand. Remove the two caliper-to-bracket (or caliper-to-knuckle, on fixed calipers) mounting bolts. Lift the caliper free and place it on a clean bench. Do not let it hang by any line.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Extract the pistons
   Drain remaining fluid into a catch container. Using compressed air at low pressure through the fluid inlet (with a wood block between pistons to prevent damage), or a hydraulic piston extractor, walk each piston out evenly. On opposed-piston calipers, you may need to clamp the opposite pistons in place while extracting one side at a time.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of piston bores during compressed-air extraction. A piston ejected at pressure can cause serious crush injury.
   ⚠Do not separate the two halves of an opposed-piston caliper. The bridge bolts are typically not serviceable and disassembly will compromise structural integrity.
6. 6

   Remove old seals and inspect bores
   Using a non-metallic pick, carefully remove the dust boots and piston square-cut seals from each bore. Clean each bore thoroughly with fresh brake fluid or brake parts cleaner suitable for hydraulic seals. Inspect bores for pitting, scoring, or corrosion. Light staining can be polished; any pitting in the seal groove or bore wall means the caliper must be replaced, not rebuilt.
   ⚠Do not use abrasive media (sandpaper, Scotch-Brite) on caliper bores — this destroys the sealing surface.
7. 7

   Inspect and clean pistons
   Clean each piston with brake fluid. Inspect for scoring, pitting, or chrome plating loss. Any defect on the sealing surface requires piston replacement — do not reuse. Phenolic pistons should be inspected for cracks and chips.
8. 8

   Install new seals and pistons
   Lightly coat new piston seals with clean DOT 3 brake fluid and seat them in the seal grooves. Install new dust boots according to the rebuild kit instructions. Lubricate each piston with fresh DOT 3 fluid and press it squarely into the bore by hand or with a piston-spreader tool until fully seated. Seat the dust boot lip into the piston groove.
   ⚠Do NOT use petroleum-based grease, silicone spray, or assembly lube on internal hydraulic surfaces. Only clean DOT 3 brake fluid is acceptable.
9. 9

   Reinstall the caliper
   Mount the caliper to the knuckle/bracket. Apply threadlocker to the mounting bolts as specified and torque to the verified value. Confirm the caliper is square to the rotor with no binding.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Install brake pads and reconnect hydraulic line
    Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to pad backing plate contact points and any anti-rattle clip surfaces (NOT to friction material or rotor). Install pads and retention hardware. Reconnect the brake line using new crush washers if banjo-style, and torque the line fitting to specification.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Bleed the brake system
    Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed each caliper at the bleeder screw, working from the corner farthest from the master cylinder per the Roadster Service Manual sequence. Continue until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. Torque the bleeder screw to specification — do not overtighten, the threads are easily damaged. Since the system was open, perform a full flush of all four corners (this also satisfies Tesla's 2-year brake fluid service interval).
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels and lower the vehicle to where the tires just touch the ground.
2. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
4. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid.
5. Before driving, pump the brake pedal repeatedly with the vehicle stationary until firm pedal pressure is restored — pistons must seat against the pads.

Verification

• With the vehicle stationary, confirm the brake pedal is firm and does not sink under sustained pressure (sign of internal master cylinder leak or remaining air).
• Inspect each caliper, line fitting, and bleeder screw for any sign of weeping fluid after pumping the pedal 20+ times.
• Perform low-speed brake tests (5-10 mph) in an empty area before any road driving. Confirm even braking, no pulling, and no abnormal noise.
• Bed in the new pads (if replaced) per pad manufacturer instructions — typically a series of moderate-to-firm stops from 30-40 mph.
• After the first drive, recheck fluid level and inspect calipers for leaks.
• Log the brake fluid service date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.
• Recheck wheel lug nut torque after approximately 50 miles.

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