Rebuild the rear brake calipers on a 2012 Tesla Roadster, which uses Lotus Elise-derived Brembo-style rear calipers. This involves removing the caliper, disassembling, replacing seals and boots with a rebuild kit, reassembling, and bleeding the brake system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake caliper rebuild/seal kit (Lotus Elise/Roadster rear caliper) × 2 — OEM-equivalent rear caliper seal kit for 2012 Tesla Roadster (Lotus Elise-based rear caliper)
• Caliper piston (if scored or corroded) × 2 — OEM-spec replacement piston, as needed
• Copper/crush washers for banjo fitting (if applicable) × 4 — OEM-spec sealing washers
• Brake pads (recommended while caliper is off) × 1 — OEM-spec rear pads for 2012 Tesla Roadster

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P if equipped with PEM park), and engage parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V auxiliary battery is typically located in the front service compartment area — refer to the Roadster Owner/Service Manual for exact location).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the front wheels, loosen rear lug nuts while the car is on the ground, then raise the rear of the vehicle on the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands.
7. Remove both rear wheels.
8. Have a clean workbench and parts tray ready — caliper internals must be kept free of dirt and petroleum contamination.
9. Confirm a fresh, sealed bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid is on hand. Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years regardless of mileage per Tesla's published recommendation; consider performing a full system flush while the system is open.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document caliper condition
   Before disassembly, photograph the caliper, brake hose routing, and pad/clip orientation. Inspect for fluid weeping at piston seals, torn dust boots, and corrosion. Confirm caliper design matches expected Lotus Elise-derived rear caliper before ordering proceeds further.
2. 2

   Disconnect brake hose
   Place a catch pan under the caliper. Using a line wrench, loosen the brake line fitting (or banjo bolt) at the caliper. Allow fluid to drain into the catch pan. Cap or plug the open hose end to minimize fluid loss and contamination. Discard any crush washers used at a banjo fitting.
   ⚠Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose at any point during this job.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove caliper from bracket / hub
   Remove the caliper mounting bolts securing the caliper to its bracket (or directly to the upright, depending on configuration). Support the caliper as the last bolt is removed. Remove brake pads and any anti-rattle clips, noting their orientation. If the bracket is to be removed, remove the bracket bolts as well.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Extract piston(s)
   With the caliper on the bench, place a wood block in the caliper opening to cushion the piston. Apply low-pressure compressed air through the fluid inlet port to push the piston out, OR use a piston removal tool. If the caliper is a multi-piston opposed design, remove one piston at a time, plugging the others to maintain pressure. Catch residual fluid with shop towels.
   ⚠️Keep fingers entirely out of the piston path — pistons can eject with crushing force.
5. 5

   Remove dust boots and piston seals
   Using a soft pick, carefully remove the dust boots from their grooves. Then remove the square-section piston seals from the bore, taking care not to scratch the bore surface. Discard all rubber components — they will be replaced from the rebuild kit.
   ⚠Any scratch in the caliper bore will cause leaks. Use only plastic or brass picks, never steel.
6. 6

   Clean and inspect
   Clean the caliper body, bore, and piston with fresh brake fluid or brake cleaner. Inspect the bore for pitting, scoring, or corrosion. Inspect each piston for pitting or plating loss. If the bore is pitted or the piston is damaged, the caliper or piston must be replaced — pitted bores cannot be safely rebuilt. Inspect slide pins (if applicable) for wear and corrosion.
   ⚠Do not hone the caliper bore. The plating is thin; honing destroys it.
7. 7

   Install new piston seal and dust boot
   Lubricate the new square-section piston seal with clean DOT 3 brake fluid (or the assembly lube supplied in the rebuild kit) and seat it fully into the bore groove. Install the new dust boot per the kit's instructions — some kits require seating the outer lip into the caliper groove first, others install with the piston.
8. 8

   Install piston
   Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid. Carefully press the piston squarely into the bore by hand until fully bottomed. If resistance is felt, stop and check for cocking or a pinched seal. Seat the dust boot's inner lip into the piston groove. Repeat for any remaining pistons.
9. 9

   Service slide pins (if applicable)
   If the rear caliper uses slide pins, clean the pins and bores, replace the slide pin boots from the rebuild kit, and apply silicone brake grease. Reinstall the pins.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall caliper bracket and caliper
    If the bracket was removed, clean threads, apply medium-strength thread locker, and reinstall to specification. Install brake pads and any anti-rattle hardware. Mount the caliper to the bracket/upright, applying medium-strength thread locker to the caliper bolts, and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect brake line
    Reconnect the brake hose to the caliper using new crush washers if a banjo-style fitting is used. Torque the line fitting using a line wrench. Verify there are no kinks or contact points along the hose routing.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed the brake system
    Top off the master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed each caliper at its bleeder screw, working from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder to the closest, until clean, bubble-free fluid flows. Maintain the master cylinder reservoir level throughout. Torque each bleeder screw lightly — do not overtighten.
    ⚠Never let the master cylinder run dry during bleeding — air will enter the ABS/proportioning circuit and require a more involved bleed.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both rear wheels and snug lug nuts by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque rear lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3.
6. With the vehicle off, pump the brake pedal until firm — do not move the vehicle until pedal feel is solid.

Verification

• Confirm a firm, high brake pedal that does not sink under sustained pressure.
• Inspect each caliper, bleeder, and line fitting for any sign of weeping after pumping the pedal 20+ times.
• Perform low-speed brake checks in a safe area: 5 mph stops, then 15 mph, then 30 mph, verifying straight, even braking with no pull and no unusual noises.
• Re-check rear lug nut torque after the first 50 miles.
• Inspect for fluid leakage at all four corners after the first drive.
• Record the brake fluid service date — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage; the next service is due 2 years from today.

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