Replace the front lower control arm bushing on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so the front lower control arm and bushings are Lotus-sourced components — service procedures and parts often reference Lotus part catalogs rather than Tesla.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm bushing (Lotus Elise-spec) × 1 — Lotus/Tesla Roadster front lower control arm bushing — confirm against VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin, single use
• Self-locking nuts (if used at control arm pivot) × 1 — Replace any self-locking/nyloc fasteners disturbed

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed early cars), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V auxiliary battery is typically located at the front of the vehicle under the front access panel/clamshell — refer to the owner documentation for exact location on your VIN).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the car is still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
8. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
9. Inspect the area for any wiring, brake lines, or ABS sensor leads that route across the control arm before disturbing fasteners.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document baseline alignment and inspect
   Before disassembly, note any visible alignment marks on the control arm pivot bolts/cams (if present). Inspect the ball joint boot, sway bar link, strut, and brake hose routing. Confirm which bushing is being replaced (front pivot vs. rear pivot of the lower control arm) — the Roadster lower arm has two pivot bushings.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Hold the sway bar link shaft with an Allen key and remove the nut securing the end link to the lower control arm. Swing the link clear. Inspect the link bushings/ball joints while accessible — replace if torn.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the upright and separate the lower ball joint
   Place a jack under the upright/hub assembly to support it. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut and discard it (single-use). Loosen the ball joint nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the upright using a proper separator. Avoid hammering on the aluminum upright.
   ⚠Do not let the upright/brake assembly hang by the brake hose or ABS lead. Support with the jack or a bungee from the chassis.
4. 4

   Disconnect strut from lower arm if required for clearance
   On the Roadster/Elise platform, the front damper bolts to the upright, not the lower arm — clearance for arm removal is usually obtained by lowering the upright once the ball joint is free. If the procedure on your specific arm requires loosening the strut to gain clearance, loosen the strut-to-upright bolts only as needed. Do not fully remove unless required.
   Torque spec

   Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Mark and remove control arm pivot bolts
   Mark the orientation of any eccentric/cam bolts (if equipped) so alignment can be approximated on reassembly. Support the control arm, then remove the inboard pivot bolts securing the lower control arm to the chassis subframe.
   ⚠Pivot hardware threads into the aluminum chassis subframe area. Do not cross-thread on reinstallation — start all bolts by hand.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle
   Maneuver the control arm out of the chassis pocket. Inspect the arm for cracks, bent geometry, or corrosion at the bushing seats — the Roadster arm is aluminum and is not repairable if cracked; replace the arm if any damage is found.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the control arm in a press (NOT a vise with hammer blows). Using bushing cups sized to the arm bore, press the old bushing straight out. Note the orientation and depth of the original bushing before removal — many lower arm bushings are directional (voids oriented fore/aft).
   ⚠Aluminum control arm bores are easily damaged. Press straight, support the arm fully, and never use an angled drift.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the bushing bore
   Clean the bore with a non-abrasive solvent. Inspect for ovaling, scoring, or cracks radiating from the bore. If the bore is damaged, replace the control arm — do not attempt to install a new bushing in a compromised bore.
9. 9

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate the outer shell of the new bushing with rubber-safe assembly lube or soapy water (no petroleum grease on rubber). Align any directional markings to match the original orientation. Press the bushing in straight to the correct depth — flush or to the manufacturer-specified shoulder, matching the original.
   ℹ️If the bushing has a void/slot orientation, getting it wrong will cause premature failure and altered ride feel.
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm to the chassis
    Position the control arm in the chassis pocket and start both pivot bolts by hand. Snug — but do NOT final-torque — the pivot bolts at this stage. Final torque is applied at ride height.
11. 11

    Reconnect ball joint and sway bar link
    Insert the ball joint stud into the upright and install the ball joint nut. Torque the ball joint nut and install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse the old one. If the cotter pin holes do not align at torque, tighten further (never back off) until aligned. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall strut hardware (if disturbed)
    If the strut-to-upright bolts were loosened or removed, reinstall and torque to specification. If strut tower nuts were disturbed, torque those as well.
    Torque spec

    Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle to load suspension
    Install the front wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle until the full weight is on the wheels (or use a drive-on lift / loaded ramp). The control arm bushing must be clamped at static ride height to prevent preload twist in the rubber.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With vehicle weight on the wheels, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolts. This is critical — torquing while drooping will cause the bushing to fail in months.
    ⚠️Failing to torque at ride height is the most common cause of premature bushing failure on this platform.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
15. 15

    Final wheel torque
    With the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Confirm no tools or fasteners remain in the wheel well or on the subframe.
3. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the wheels on the ground to verify no binding, scraping, or contact with brake/ABS lines.
4. An alignment is strongly recommended — any time a lower control arm is removed, front toe (and possibly camber, if cam bolts are equipped) will shift.

Verification

• Visually verify the new cotter pin is fully installed and bent over on the ball joint nut.
• Confirm the control arm pivot bolts were final-torqued at ride height, not at full droop.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area: listen for clunks over bumps, verify steering returns to center, and check for any pulling.
• Recheck wheel lug torque after approximately 50 miles.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment at a shop familiar with the Lotus Elise/Tesla Roadster geometry — generic alignment racks may not have specs loaded.
• While the car is up for related service, remember Tesla-recommended interval items that often get neglected on Roadsters: brake fluid every 2 years (DOT 3 on this car), and gearbox/transaxle oil per the owner manual interval — these are easily forgotten on a low-mileage collector vehicle.

More procedures for this vehicle