Replace the front upper control arm bushing on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so the front suspension uses Lotus-style forged aluminum upper control arms with pressed-in bushings.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front upper control arm bushing (Lotus Elise/Roadster spec) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified upper A-arm bushing — confirm against VIN
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed early cars), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the load. The Roadster's aluminum chassis will deform if lifted incorrectly.
9. Remove the front wheel(s).
10. Inspect the upper ball joint, lower control arm, and strut for additional wear before disassembly — these often need replacement together on cars of this age.

Procedure

1. 1

   Access the front upper control arm
   With the wheel removed, locate the upper control arm (upper A-arm) at the top of the upright. On the Roadster this is a forged aluminum arm pivoting on the chassis at two inboard points and connecting to the upright via an upper ball joint. Spray penetrating oil on the inboard pivot bolts and the upper ball joint stud nut and allow it to soak.
2. 2

   Support the upright/hub assembly
   Place a jack stand or transmission jack under the lower control arm to support the upright. This prevents the strut/spring assembly from dropping when the upper ball joint is separated and avoids straining the brake hose and ABS wiring.
   ⚠Do not let the upright hang on the brake hose or ABS sensor wire.
3. 3

   Disconnect the upper ball joint from the upright
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Separate the ball joint taper from the upright using a screw-type separator. Avoid pickle forks if you intend to reuse the ball joint boot.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the upper control arm inboard bolts
   Mark the orientation and any shim/washer stack at the inboard pivots — front camber on the Roadster is set by shims behind the upper arm mounts. Keep shims in order and labeled for reinstallation. Remove the two inboard pivot bolts and lift the upper control arm out of the chassis.
   ⚠Camber shims must be reinstalled in identical order and orientation or alignment will be incorrect. A four-wheel alignment is recommended after this job regardless.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Inspect the control arm
   With the arm on the bench, inspect the forged aluminum body for cracks, corrosion at the bushing bores, and play in the upper ball joint. The ball joint is typically integral/pressed into the arm on this chassis — if it is worn, the arm or ball joint cartridge must be replaced as a unit per manufacturer specification.
6. 6

   Press out the old bushing(s)
   Using a hydraulic press with appropriately sized cups/drivers, press the worn bushing(s) out of the control arm. Support the arm squarely in the press to avoid bending the aluminum. If the bushing is seized, applying gentle heat to the arm bore (not the bushing) can ease removal — do not exceed temperatures that will affect the aluminum's temper.
   ⚠Never hammer bushings out of an aluminum control arm — you will crack the bore. Press only.
7. 7

   Clean and inspect the bushing bore
   Clean the bore with a non-abrasive solvent and inspect for ovaling, scoring, or cracks. Any damage to the bore means the control arm must be replaced. Lightly lubricate the bore with the bushing manufacturer's recommended assembly lubricant only — do not use petroleum grease on rubber bushings.
8. 8

   Press in the new bushing(s)
   Orient the new bushing per the manufacturer's index marks (if any) and press it squarely into the bore using a cup that contacts only the outer metal sleeve of the bushing. Press until the bushing is centered or shouldered as specified by the bushing manufacturer.
9. 9

   Reinstall the upper control arm
   Position the control arm in the chassis brackets, reinstalling the original camber shims in their exact original locations and orientation. Install the inboard pivot bolts hand-tight only at this stage — final torque must be done at ride height.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect the upper ball joint
    Insert the upper ball joint stud into the upright. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification, then advance (do not back off) the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs properly.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and run the lug nuts down by hand. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but is not yet bearing full weight, then snug the lugs. Final torque to spec in a star pattern once fully on the ground.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque of control arm pivot bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels and the suspension settled (bounce the corner a few times), final-torque the upper control arm inboard pivot bolts. This is critical — torquing bushings while the suspension is drooping will cause the rubber to be permanently preloaded and fail early.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative).
2. Verify all fasteners are torqued and that the cotter pin is installed and properly bent.
3. Confirm the brake hose, ABS sensor wire, and any wheel-speed harness are routed correctly with no rubbing or tension at full lock.
4. Lower the vehicle fully and torque the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.

Verification

• With weight on the wheels, visually confirm the upper control arm sits level in its mounts and that camber shims are seated.
• Test drive at low speed first — listen for clunks over bumps and verify steering is centered and tracks straight.
• A four-wheel alignment is REQUIRED after disturbing the upper control arm on a Roadster, since front camber is shim-adjusted at this arm. Do not skip this.
• After 100-200 miles, re-inspect the cotter pin, ball joint nut, and pivot bolt torque marks for any movement.
• While the vehicle is in the air, this is a good opportunity to inspect items Tesla service intervals call for: brake fluid condition (replace every 2 years), tire wear pattern (rotate every ~6,250 mi), and on this Roadster the transmission/gearbox oil and rear differential oil condition since those are not 'lifetime' fluids.

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