Replace the rear control arm bushing(s) on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its rear suspension architecture with the Lotus Elise/Exige platform, so most chassis fasteners and bushing service procedures follow Lotus practice rather than later Tesla designs.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for 2010–2012 Roadster / Lotus Elise-pattern rear arm) × 2 — OEM Tesla Roadster rear suspension bushing — confirm by arm location (upper/lower, fore/aft) before ordering
• New cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — Size to match OEM castle nut
• Replacement self-locking nuts/bolts if specified by service manual × 1 — Per OEM service documentation

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2.5 with selector), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob removed from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the front service compartment on the Roadster) before lifting the vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. The Roadster routes HV cabling through the center tunnel to the rear PEM and motor.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen rear lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified lift points (Roadster has specific reinforced sill jacking pads — do not lift on the floor pan or battery enclosure). Support on rated jack stands.
8. Remove the rear wheels.
9. Inspect the suspect control arm, bushings, ball joint, and surrounding hardware. Photograph orientation of every bracket, washer, and shim before disassembly — Roadster shims set toe/camber and must be reinstalled in the same position.

Procedure

1. 1

   Support the rear hub assembly
   Place a floor jack with a soft pad under the rear hub/upright to support its weight. This prevents the brake hose, ABS line, and (if applicable) drive components from being stressed when the control arm is freed.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar link
   Hold the sway bar link shaft with an Allen key and remove the link nut from the control arm or upright as applicable. Swing the link clear of the work area.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate the ball joint (if required for arm removal)
   If the control arm being serviced connects to the upright via a ball joint, remove the cotter pin and castle nut. Use a proper ball joint separator to part the taper. Do not strike the aluminum upright. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is mandatory on reassembly.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a critical suspension fastener.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Note alignment shim positions
   Before loosening the inboard control arm bolts, mark and bag any alignment shims, noting exact stack order and orientation (inboard/outboard, fore/aft). The Roadster uses shims at the rear control arm pivots to set toe and camber.
   ⚠Losing or reinstalling shims incorrectly will result in severe alignment error and accelerated tire wear.
5. 5

   Remove inboard control arm bolts
   Support the arm and remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) attaching the control arm to the chassis subframe. Withdraw the arm from the vehicle, keeping shims in their marked positions.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Inspect the removed arm
   On the bench, inspect the arm for cracks, corrosion, elongated bolt holes, and ball joint play (if integral). Replace the arm rather than just the bushing if any structural defect is found.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press and properly sized drivers/receivers, press the worn bushing out of the control arm eye. Support the arm squarely so the bore is not distorted. Do not heat the aluminum arm with a torch.
   ⚠Pressing against the arm at an angle can crack or deform the eye — use the correct cup sizes.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the bushing bore
   Clean the bore with a non-corrosive solvent. Inspect for scoring, ovality, or corrosion. Light surface corrosion can be cleaned with fine abrasive; deep damage requires arm replacement.
9. 9

   Press in the new bushing
   Lubricate per the bushing manufacturer's instructions (typically a non-petroleum assembly lube on rubber bushings; dry on poly). Press the new bushing in squarely until fully seated and centered in the arm eye. Verify orientation if the bushing is directional (voided bushings have a specific clocking).
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm
    Position the arm in the chassis bracket, reinstall the alignment shims in their original positions, and start the inboard pivot bolt(s) by hand. Do not fully torque yet — final torque is set with vehicle weight on the wheels.
11. 11

    Reconnect the ball joint
    If parted, reseat the ball joint taper into the upright, install the castle nut, torque to specification, and install a NEW cotter pin. If the slot doesn't align, tighten further (never back off) until it does, staying within spec.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reconnect the sway bar link
    Hold the link shaft with an Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the suspension at normal ride height.
3. With the vehicle weighted, final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification. Torquing while drooped will preload the bushing and shorten its life dramatically.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Verify no tools, rags, or hardware remain in the wheel well or under the vehicle.

Verification

• Confirm the cotter pin is installed and properly bent on any ball joint nut serviced.
• Confirm all CRITICAL fasteners (control arm bolts, ball joint nut, sway bar link) reached final torque with vehicle weight applied.
• Bounce-test the rear corner: suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunks or binding.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — the Roadster's rear toe/camber is shim-adjusted and must be verified after any control arm service.
• Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks, squeaks, or pulling. Recheck torque on serviced fasteners after the first 100 miles.
• While the vehicle is on the lift, take the opportunity to inspect items Tesla now considers service-interval rather than 'lifetime': brake fluid condition (replace every 2 years), gearbox oil (75W-90 GL-5, 2.0 qt — Tesla now recommends periodic service rather than treating as lifetime), and 12V battery health (3–5 year typical life).

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