Replace the front strut top bearing (upper mount bearing) on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis architecture with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so many suspension components are Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Strut top bearing (upper mount bearing) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified bearing for 2012 Tesla Roadster front strut — Lotus Elise/Exige chassis equivalent often interchanges; verify before fitting
• Strut top mount × 1 — Replace if worn or deteriorated — OEM specification
• Cotter pin (if ball joint nut is disturbed) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (1st or Reverse on the manual gearbox), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for any vehicle systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area (refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location on your VIN).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. Orange HV cabling on the Roadster routes between the rear PEM, motor, and the rear-mounted ESS battery pack — keep all work forward of the bulkhead.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified lift points (the Roadster has specific reinforced jacking pads — using the wrong point will damage the bonded aluminum tub). Support securely on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
9. Inspect the strut, spring, and surrounding components for any signs of cracking, corrosion, or damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark alignment references
   Before disturbing anything, mark the position of the strut-to-knuckle bolts and (if visible from below) any camber/eccentric adjusters with a paint marker. This gives a reference point to return to and minimizes alignment drift.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from strut
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut (or lower control arm, depending on configuration). Hold the stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the shaft from spinning. Set hardware aside in order.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect brake line / ABS sensor bracket from strut
   Unbolt any brake hose bracket or wheel speed sensor harness clip attached to the strut body. Support the brake caliper with a bungee or hook so it does not hang by the hose. Do not disconnect the hydraulic brake line.
   ⚠Never let the caliper hang by the flexible brake hose — internal damage can cause delayed brake failure.
4. 4

   Separate strut from steering knuckle
   Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts. Note the orientation of any cam/eccentric washers if equipped. Carefully separate the strut from the knuckle; you may need to spread the knuckle clamp slightly with a wedge — do NOT hammer the aluminum knuckle.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support strut and remove upper strut tower nuts
   Have an assistant or strap support the strut from below. From inside the front trunk/upper strut tower area, loosen and remove the upper strut tower nuts. Lower the strut assembly out of the vehicle.
   ⚠The strut assembly is heavy with the spring still under preload from the top mount — control its descent.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Compress the coil spring
   Secure the strut assembly in a soft-jaw vise by the lower bracket (never by the strut tube or shaft). Install an external coil spring compressor on opposing sides of the spring, ensuring hooks fully capture multiple coils on each side. Compress evenly until the spring is loose between the upper and lower seats.
   ⚠️A spring released uncontrolled has caused fatal injuries. Verify compressor engagement multiple times before loosening the top nut.
7. 7

   Remove top strut nut
   Hold the strut shaft with an Allen/hex key (or the manufacturer-specified shaft tool) while loosening the top center nut. Once removed, lift off the upper mount, the worn strut bearing, the upper spring seat, and any isolators. Note the order and orientation of every component as you remove it.
8. 8

   Inspect and replace the strut bearing
   Compare the new bearing to the old one for correct fit and orientation. Inspect the upper mount, dust boot, bump stop, and spring isolators while everything is apart — replace any deteriorated components now, as the labor to access them is the same.
   ℹ️The Roadster's bearing assembly is closer to a Lotus Elise/Exige part than any modern Tesla part. Confirm fitment before final assembly.
9. 9

   Reassemble strut with new bearing
   Reinstall components in the exact reverse order of removal: spring isolator, upper seat, new bearing (correctly oriented), upper mount, then top nut. Hold the shaft with the hex key and torque the top center nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual / Roadster Workshop Manual.
10. 10

    Release spring compressor
    Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor, verifying the spring seats correctly into both upper and lower spring perches and that the spring end aligns with its locating step. Remove the compressor.
11. 11

    Reinstall strut to vehicle
    Lift the strut assembly into the strut tower, start the upper tower nuts by hand, then engage the lower end into the steering knuckle. Reinstall strut-to-knuckle bolts (in original orientation per your alignment marks) and tighten finger-tight at this stage.
12. 12

    Torque strut fasteners
    Torque the upper strut tower nuts to spec. Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts to spec. If any strut body fasteners (such as a strut tube clamp) were disturbed, torque those to the strut bolt specification.
    Torque spec

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)

    Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)

    Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reconnect sway bar link and brake/sensor hardware
    Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing. Refit the brake hose bracket and any wheel speed sensor harness clips.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. If any control arm bolts were loosened during the procedure, they must be final-torqued with the suspension at ride height (vehicle weight on wheels).
6. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock with the engine/system on to verify no binding or noise from the new bearing.
7. Have a four-wheel alignment performed — the Roadster is sensitive to toe and camber settings.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and listen at the strut tower — a properly installed bearing should produce no clicking, popping, or grinding.
• Bounce the front corner of the car several times — the strut should compress and rebound smoothly with no creaking from the top mount.
• Drive at low speed over a smooth surface while making slow figure-eight turns; listen for any new noises from the strut tower.
• Inspect the strut tower nuts and strut-to-knuckle bolts for paint-mark witness lines after the first 100 miles to confirm fasteners have not loosened.
• Confirm the alignment shop's printout shows toe and camber within Tesla Roadster specification.
• Note: While the front suspension is apart is also a good time to verify your brake fluid service interval — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage, and the 2012 Roadster is well past that interval if it hasn't been serviced recently.

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