Replace the front strut top mount on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note: this vehicle is built on the Lotus Elise platform, so the front suspension uses Lotus-derived components rather than Tesla-specific parts. Service information is rare — verify all parts against the actual vehicle before ordering.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front strut top mount assembly × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front upper strut mount (Lotus Elise/Tesla Roadster front)
• Strut bearing (if separate from mount) × 1 — OEM-specification upper strut bearing
• Cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Strut tower nuts (if single-use) × 3 — OEM-specification — replace if manufacturer specifies

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P (if automatic), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob at least 10 feet away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery before beginning work. On the 2012 Roadster, the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — refer to the owner documentation for exact location and disconnect procedure.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-designated jack points and support securely on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
8. Remove the front wheel(s) on the side(s) being serviced.
9. Inspect the strut, spring, and surrounding suspension components for corrosion, cracks, or prior damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Photograph the strut assembly, mount orientation, and any alignment marks before removing anything. The Roadster shares much of its front suspension geometry with the Lotus Elise, and incorrect reassembly orientation will affect alignment.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link
   Locate the sway bar end link at the strut or lower control arm. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key and remove the retaining nut. Swing the link clear of the strut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Disconnect brake line / ABS sensor bracket from strut (if applicable)
   If the flexible brake hose or ABS wheel-speed sensor harness is clipped or bolted to the strut body, carefully release it. Do NOT stretch the brake line — support the caliper with a bungee or hook if needed. Do not open the hydraulic system.
   ⚠Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
4. 4

   Separate the strut from the upright/knuckle
   Remove the strut-to-knuckle through-bolts (typically two). Note bolt orientation. The 2012 Roadster's front upright is aluminum — do NOT pry against it aggressively. Penetrating oil and gentle persuasion are preferred over hammering.
   ⚠Aluminum upright — do not strike directly with a steel hammer.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support the strut from below
   Place a jack or assistant under the strut to catch it once the upper mount is released. The strut/spring assembly is heavy and under no spring preload at the mount, but it will drop free.
6. 6

   Remove the upper strut tower nuts
   From the front trunk / wheel arch top (access varies — refer to vehicle), remove the strut tower retaining nuts holding the top mount to the chassis tower. Support the strut from below as the last nut is removed.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Lower and remove the strut assembly
   Carefully lower the complete strut/spring/mount assembly out of the wheel arch. Move it to a clean bench for disassembly.
8. 8

   Compress the coil spring
   Install an external spring compressor on the coil spring following the compressor manufacturer's instructions. Compress the spring evenly until it is no longer loaded against the upper perch. Verify the compressor is fully seated and stable before proceeding.
   ⚠️A slipping spring compressor can launch the spring with lethal force. Inspect, seat, and tighten the compressor carefully and evenly.
9. 9

   Remove the top mount nut
   Hold the damper shaft with the appropriate hex/Allen interface and loosen the central top-mount nut. Remove the nut, washer, top mount, and bearing (if separate). Note stack-up order and orientation for reassembly.
   ⚠Confirm the spring is fully decompressed against the perch before removing the top nut. If spring tension still loads the mount, STOP and recompress.
10. 10

    Inspect related components
    With the strut apart, inspect the upper bearing, dust boot, bump stop, spring isolator, and damper rod for wear. Replace any worn items now — labor to access them again is significant. Inspect the damper itself for fluid leaks; if leaking, replace the damper assembly as well.
11. 11

    Install the new top mount
    Reassemble the spring and new top mount onto the strut in the documented orientation. Install the top-mount nut and torque to the manufacturer's specification (refer to Tesla Roadster service manual — this specific torque is not in the verified data set). Hold the damper shaft with a hex key while torquing.
    ⚠Top-mount center nut torque is not in the verified data — torque to OEM specification, do not guess.
12. 12

    Decompress the spring
    Slowly and evenly release the spring compressor, ensuring the spring seats correctly into both the upper and lower perches. Verify spring end orientation matches OEM.

Reassembly

1. Lift the assembled strut into the wheel arch and align the upper studs through the strut tower.
2. Install the strut tower nuts hand-tight, then torque (see Strut Tower Nuts).
3. Align the strut to the upright/knuckle and install the through-bolts. Torque (see Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts).
4. Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key. Torque (see Sway Bar Link Nuts).
5. Reattach any brake hose / ABS sensor brackets to the strut.
6. If the lower ball joint or control arm was disturbed, torque the ball joint nut and install a NEW cotter pin (see Ball Joint Nut). Control arm bolts must be torqued with the vehicle's weight on the wheels (see Control Arm Bolts).
7. Reinstall the front wheel and run lug nuts down hand-tight.
8. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
9. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern (see Wheel Lug Nuts).
10. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, bounce each front corner and listen for clunks, squeaks, or knocking from the strut tower — a properly seated mount is silent.
• Visually inspect that the strut is centered in the tower and that the spring is seated correctly top and bottom.
• Test drive at low speed over uneven surfaces, listening for top-mount knock. Then road-test at higher speed checking for steering wander or pull.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed. Replacing a strut mount on the Roadster will affect camber and likely toe — alignment is required, not optional.
• Re-check strut tower nut and strut-to-knuckle bolt torque after the first 100-200 miles.
• Note: while you have the suspension apart, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage) and to check the rear differential / gearbox oil level on this manual-transmission Roadster — drive unit fluids on Tesla vehicles are not truly 'lifetime'.

More procedures for this vehicle