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2012 TESLA ROADSTER

Single Motor RWDRWDAUTOMATICev
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suspension

Subframe Bushing

for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
4.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
13

Replace worn subframe bushings on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so subframe and bushing service largely follows Lotus procedures rather than Tesla-specific ones. Service information is scarce — proceed only if you have access to the Roadster Service Manual or equivalent Lotus reference.

Warnings

⚠️The Tesla Roadster has a high-voltage battery pack mounted behind the cabin/in front of the rear subframe area. Do NOT cut, pry against, or pierce any orange cabling or pack housing. If the rear subframe service brings you near HV components, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified Roadster technician.
The Roadster uses a bonded/extruded aluminum chassis derived from the Lotus Elise. Do not strike chassis members with a steel hammer and do not weld or heat near the bonded joints — this can permanently damage the chassis.
Roadster service documentation is rare. If the bushing in question is integral to a subframe casting or requires special Tesla/Lotus fixtures, do not improvise — refer to the Roadster Service Manual.
ℹ️Mark all alignment-critical fasteners and eccentric cams before disassembly. A four-wheel alignment is required after this job.

Tools required

Metric socket set (10–24mm)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Calibrated torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20–200 Nm range)Essential
Heavy-duty floor jackEssential
Four jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Transmission/powertrain jack or subframe support fixtureEssential
Bushing press or hydraulic press with bushing adaptersEssential
Pry bars
Penetrating oil
Paint marker / scribe (for alignment reference)Essential
Soft-faced (dead-blow) hammer

Parts

  • Subframe bushings (Roadster/Lotus-spec) × 4 — Manufacturer-specified subframe bushing set — verify correct front/rear application
  • Subframe mounting hardware (bolts/nuts) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified — replace any single-use fasteners
  • Cotter pins (if any ball joint or castellated nut is disturbed) × 2 — OEM specification

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed equipped cars), and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the Roadster's front compartment/forward of the cabin per the service manual).
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Confirm which subframe (front or rear) requires bushing service. The Roadster's rear subframe carries the motor, gearbox, and is adjacent to the HV pack — exercise extreme caution.
  7. Obtain the correct Lotus/Tesla-spec replacement bushings before starting — these are not generic.
  8. Have the vehicle's alignment specs and an alignment appointment ready for after reassembly.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Raise and support the vehicle
    Loosen wheel lug nuts, then raise the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster uses Lotus-style chassis jacking pads — do NOT jack on the floor pan or bonded sills). Support securely on four jack stands at rated lift points. Remove the road wheels at the affected end.
    Improper jacking points will crush the bonded aluminum chassis. Use only the Lotus/Tesla-specified pads.
  2. 2
    Remove underbody panels and access covers
    Remove the relevant undertray, diffuser, and any access panels needed to view all subframe mounting points. Note fastener locations — the Roadster uses several different fastener types and lengths in the undertray.
  3. 3
    Survey HV proximity and route
    Visually identify the HV pack, any orange cabling, and the motor/gearbox harness near the rear subframe. Plan the disassembly so no tool, jack, or component contacts orange cabling or the pack housing. If the bushing service requires lowering the subframe in a way that loads the pack mounts or HV harness, STOP.
    ⚠️Any contact with orange HV cabling can be lethal. Do not proceed if cabling must be moved or disconnected.
  4. 4
    Mark alignment references
    Using a paint marker, mark the position of every eccentric cam bolt, control arm bolt, and subframe-to-chassis bolt relative to the chassis. This preserves a baseline alignment to ease the post-repair alignment.
  5. 5
    Disconnect suspension components from subframe
    Disconnect the sway bar end links and any control arms or strut connections that prevent subframe drop. Support the lower control arm with a jack before separating any ball joint. Where ball joints are separated, plan to install new cotter pins on reassembly.
    Torque spec
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Disconnect ancillaries crossing the subframe
    Disconnect any brake lines/clips, ABS sensor harnesses, parking brake cables, and (rear) any low-voltage powertrain harnesses routed across the subframe. Do NOT disconnect any orange cable. Cap any opened brake lines.
    ⚠️If subframe removal requires disturbing motor/inverter HV cabling, STOP. This procedure is for low-voltage chassis work only.
  7. 7
    Support the subframe
    Place a transmission jack or subframe support fixture under the subframe at its center of mass. Take up the load before loosening any subframe-to-chassis bolts. On the rear subframe, the motor/gearbox weight is significant — use an adequately rated fixture.
  8. 8
    Remove subframe mounting bolts
    Loosen and remove the subframe-to-chassis bolts in a cross pattern. Lower the subframe slowly, watching for any harness, hose, or cable still attached. Lower only as far as needed to access the bushings — full removal may not be required.
  9. 9
    Remove old bushings
    Using a bushing press or hydraulic press with the correct adapters, press the old bushings out of the subframe (or chassis mount, depending on bushing design). Do not heat the chassis or use flame near bonded aluminum structure. Clean the bushing bores thoroughly.
    Do not apply heat to bonded aluminum chassis structure — adhesive bonds can be damaged.
  10. 10
    Install new bushings
    Press the new manufacturer-specified bushings into the bores using the correct adapters. Ensure orientation marks (if present) align per the service manual. Confirm bushings are seated fully and squarely.
  11. 11
    Reinstall subframe
    Raise the subframe back into position with the support fixture. Start all subframe-to-chassis bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Snug bolts in a cross pattern, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla/Lotus Service Manual for the subframe bolt torque (this value is not in the verified list and must not be guessed).
  12. 12
    Reconnect suspension and ancillaries
    Reconnect control arms, sway bar links, brake lines, ABS harnesses, and any LV connectors. Install new cotter pins on any castellated ball joint nuts. Verify all clips and routing match the original orientation.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
    Strut Bolts115 Nm (85 lb-ft)
    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
  13. 13
    Final torque on control arm bolts
    Reinstall the wheels and lower the vehicle so suspension is loaded at ride height before final-torquing control arm pivot bolts. Torquing these unloaded will preload the new bushings incorrectly and cause premature failure.
    Control arm bolts must be torqued with the vehicle's weight on the wheels, not while suspension hangs free.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall undertray and diffuser panels with original fastener types in original locations.
  2. Reinstall road wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
  3. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  4. Cycle the suspension by rolling the car forward and back several feet before final torque checks.
  5. Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — subframe bushing replacement always disturbs alignment.

Verification

  • Confirm no orange HV cabling was disturbed and no warning indicators are present after reconnecting the 12V battery.
  • Visually inspect all subframe bolts for proper seating and witness marks from torque wrench.
  • Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks, knocks, or rubbing that would indicate a misaligned subframe or unseated bushing.
  • Verify alignment is within Roadster spec on an alignment rack — toe, camber, and caster will all be affected.
  • Note: The Roadster's rear gearbox uses 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil. While the subframe is accessible, this is a good opportunity to inspect the gearbox for leaks — Tesla now recommends drive-unit fluid service rather than treating it as 'lifetime.'
  • Re-check subframe and control arm fasteners after the first 100–200 miles of driving.

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