Replace the front sway (anti-roll) bar bushings on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so the sway bar mounts to brackets on the front subframe with two D-bushings retained by U-brackets.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar bushing (D-bushing) — match OEM diameter × 2 — Roadster front anti-roll bar bushing — verify bar diameter before ordering

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (1st or Reverse for the Roadster's manual gearbox), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit the vehicle with the key fob carried at least several meters away. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the rear clamshell/access panel and disconnect the 12V auxiliary low-voltage battery negative terminal. On the Roadster the 12V battery is located in the rear of the vehicle near the PEM area — refer to the owner's manual for exact location.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the tires are still on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands. The Roadster's aluminum tub is easily damaged by improper jacking.
9. Remove both front wheels to access the sway bar brackets.
10. Inspect the sway bar, end links, and bushings for additional wear before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Locate the front sway bar and bushing brackets
   From under the front of the car, identify the front anti-roll bar running laterally across the front subframe. It is retained to the chassis by two U-shaped brackets, each clamping a rubber D-bushing around the bar. Note the orientation of each bracket and bushing split before removal — they typically install with the split facing forward or upward.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end links (if required for clearance)
   Depending on bar geometry, you may need to disconnect one or both sway bar end links from the bar to allow the bar to drop enough to slide bushings off. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning. If the links are in good condition, leave them attached and only loosen the bracket bolts in the next step.
   ⚠If the end link boots are torn or the ball stud spins freely under load, replace the end link — do not reuse.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the sway bar bracket bolts
   Support the sway bar with one hand or a stand. Remove the bolts securing each U-bracket to the chassis/subframe. Set the brackets aside in their original orientation. The sway bar should now drop slightly, allowing access to the bushings.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the old bushings
   Slide each old D-bushing off the sway bar through its split. If the bushing is bonded or stuck, gently pry it open at the split and work it free. Inspect the bar surface where the bushing rode for grooving or corrosion — light surface wear is acceptable, but deep grooves indicate the bar should be replaced.
5. 5

   Verify replacement bushing fit
   Compare the new bushings to the old ones — inner diameter must match the bar exactly, and outer profile must match the U-bracket. The Roadster's front bar diameter must be confirmed; aftermarket bushings sold for Lotus Elise/Exige are commonly compatible but verify before installation.
   ⚠An undersized bushing will allow bar movement and clunking; an oversized bushing will not seat in the bracket and can fail prematurely.
6. 6

   Install new bushings on the sway bar
   Apply a thin film of silicone or rubber-safe grease to the inner bore of each new bushing (do NOT use petroleum grease — it will degrade rubber). Open the split and slide each bushing onto the bar at the original mounting locations. Orient the split per the original bushing or per the manufacturer's marking.
7. 7

   Reinstall sway bar brackets
   Position each U-bracket over its bushing and start both bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading. Once both bolts are seated, tighten evenly side-to-side so the bracket pulls down squarely on the bushing. Final-torque the bracket bolts to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Reconnect sway bar end links (if disconnected)
   If the end links were disconnected in step 2, reconnect them now. Hold the internal shaft with an Allen key and tighten the nut to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery negative terminal.
5. Close the rear access panel.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on each front corner — there should be no clunking or rattling from the sway bar area.
• Take a short test drive over uneven pavement and through a moderate corner. Listen for clunks during suspension articulation; the bar should resist body roll smoothly without binding noises.
• After the test drive, re-inspect the brackets visually to ensure the bushings have not extruded or shifted, and that bracket bolts are still seated.
• While you have the front suspension exposed, this is a good opportunity to inspect ball joint boots, control arm bushings, and brake fluid condition — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle