Replace the front sway (anti-roll) bar on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform, the front sway bar and most related hardware are Lotus chassis components, not Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar (Roadster/Lotus Elise-pattern) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front anti-roll bar for 2012 Tesla Roadster
• Sway bar bushings (bracket-to-bar) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified bushings, sized to bar diameter
• Sway bar end links (recommended if worn) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified front end links

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (or P on automated units), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front compartment area — refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact location and disconnect sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using manufacturer-specified jacking points on the aluminum chassis (NOT the fiberglass clamshell) and support securely on jack stands.
9. Remove both front wheels.
10. Remove the front under-tray / belly pan as needed for access to the sway bar brackets and end links.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect routing and HV clearance
   Before loosening anything, visually trace the front sway bar's path across the chassis. Confirm there are no orange HV cables, coolant lines, or wiring harnesses zip-tied to the bar or its brackets. If any orange cable is in the work area, STOP.
   ⚠️Any orange cable contact = stop work.
2. 2

   Apply penetrating oil
   Spray penetrating oil on the sway bar end-link nuts (top and bottom) and on the sway bar bracket bolts. Allow to soak for several minutes. Roadster fasteners are often original and can be seized.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end links from the sway bar
   At each end of the sway bar, hold the end-link stud with an Allen/hex key and loosen the nut with a wrench. Remove the nut and separate the end link from the sway bar eye. Inspect end-link bushings/ball joints for play; replace if worn.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the sway bar
   Place a floor jack or a helper's hand under the center of the sway bar to support it before removing the brackets — the bar is light but awkward in the tight front compartment.
5. 5

   Remove sway bar bracket bolts
   Unbolt the two sway bar mounting brackets (clamps) that secure the bar to the chassis via the rubber bushings. Note bracket orientation for reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Maneuver sway bar out
   Lower the bar and rotate it as needed to clear steering rack, suspension arms, and any chassis cross-members. On the Roadster's Lotus-derived front end, clearance is minimal — patience is required. Do not pry against the aluminum chassis.
7. 7

   Transfer/replace bushings
   Slide the bracket bushings off the old bar. Inspect bushings for cracks, glazing, or deformation; replace as a pair if worn. Install bushings on the new bar in the original orientation, with the split (if present) facing the correct direction per the bushing design. A light film of rubber-safe silicone lubricant on the bushing ID is acceptable; do NOT use petroleum grease.
8. 8

   Install new sway bar
   Maneuver the new bar into position, mirroring the removal path. Position the bushings at the chassis mounting points and start the bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
9. 9

   Torque sway bar brackets
   Tighten both bracket bolts evenly, alternating side-to-side, to the specified torque.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect end links to sway bar
    Reattach each end link to the sway bar eye. Hold the stud with a hex key and tighten the nut to spec. If the end-link studs were also disconnected at the lower control arm/strut side during inspection, torque those to the sway bar link spec.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front under-tray / belly pan and any fasteners or clips removed for access.
2. Reinstall the front wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (negative last).

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, push down firmly on each front corner — the suspension should rebound evenly side-to-side, indicating the sway bar is engaged.
• Confirm there are no clunks or rattles on a slow drive over uneven pavement; a missed end-link torque is the most common cause of post-repair noise.
• After 80–160 km (50–100 mi), re-check sway bar bracket bolts and end-link nut torque — Roadster aluminum chassis fasteners can settle slightly.
• Visually confirm clearance between the sway bar and any chassis wiring, brake hoses, and coolant lines at full steering lock both directions.
• Note: this job does not require Tesla diagnostic software, and no alignment is strictly required for sway bar replacement alone — but if the end links or control arm hardware were disturbed, verify front alignment (toe in particular) at a shop familiar with the Lotus Elise / Roadster platform.
• Unrelated but worth checking while the car is up: 2012 Roadsters are now well past Tesla's 2-year brake fluid interval and the original battery coolant inspection window — note these to the owner if overdue.

More procedures for this vehicle