suspension
Sway Bar Links - Front Pair
for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
8
Steps
8
Replace both front sway bar end links on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster's front suspension is largely Lotus Elise-derived, so most components are accessible via standard suspension techniques rather than Tesla-specific procedures.
Warnings
⚠️The Tesla Roadster has high-voltage battery cabling routed through the vehicle. Although the front suspension area is generally clear of HV cabling, never cut, pierce, or pry against any orange cable or HV component you encounter.
⚠The Roadster has a bonded/riveted aluminum and composite chassis (Lotus-derived). Do NOT strike chassis members with a hammer and do not use the chassis tub as a jacking point — use only the manufacturer-specified jacking pads.
⚠Roadster service parts are scarce. Inspect old links carefully before disposal in case cores or hardware must be reused, and confirm new link length/thread pitch matches the originals before installation.
ℹ️Front sway bar links on the Roadster are short and located in a tight area near the lower control arm — fasteners may be seized. Use penetrating oil and avoid rounding the small hex shaft.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)Essential
Lug wrench / impact socket setEssential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Metric socket set with ratchetEssential
Allen / hex key set (for holding link shaft)Essential
Torque wrench (covering 40-100 Nm range)Essential
Penetrating oil
Wire brush
Parts
- Front sway bar end link (left) × 1 — OEM Roadster front sway bar link — many are shared with Lotus Elise/Exige; verify fitment with a Roadster-specific supplier
- Front sway bar end link (right) × 1 — OEM Roadster front sway bar link — verify fitment with a Roadster-specific supplier
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P (or in gear if equipped with the manual transmission), and engage the parking brake.
- Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the auxiliary 12V battery is located in the front trunk/service area — disconnect the negative terminal first and isolate it.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen front lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
- Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support securely on jack stands. The Roadster's chassis is fragile aluminum — improper jacking will deform it.
- Remove both front wheels and set aside.
- Inspect the area around each sway bar link for any wiring, ABS sensor leads, or brake hoses that need to be moved aside.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and pre-treat fastenersLocate the front sway bar end links connecting the front anti-roll bar to the lower suspension/upright on each side. Wire-brush the exposed threads on both ends of each link and apply penetrating oil. Allow several minutes to soak. Note the orientation and any spacers/washers present so they can be reinstalled identically.
- 2Remove driver-side sway bar link upper nutUsing a wrench on the nut and an Allen/hex key inserted into the end of the link's stud to prevent it from spinning, loosen and remove the upper nut securing the link to the sway bar. Capture any washers.⚠If the stud spins instead of the nut breaking loose, do not apply heat near composite or bonded chassis structures. Use a cut-off tool as a last resort and shield surrounding components.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Remove driver-side sway bar link lower fastenerRemove the lower fastener attaching the link to the lower control arm / suspension mounting point. Hold the link's shaft with a hex key as needed. Once both ends are free, withdraw the link from the vehicle.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Remove passenger-side sway bar linkRepeat steps 2 and 3 on the passenger side. Keep left and right links separated if they differ in any way, and compare each removed link to its replacement before installing to verify length, stud diameter, thread pitch, and orientation match.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 5Inspect related componentsWith the links out, inspect the sway bar bushings and brackets, the lower control arm bushings, and the ball joint boots. The Roadster's front suspension is lightly built; any torn boots, cracked bushings, or excessive play should be addressed now while access is good. Check the sway bar itself for cracks at the link attachment points.
- 6Install passenger-side new linkPosition the new link in the same orientation as the original. Start the lower fastener by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then start the upper nut. Once both are seated, snug both fasteners but do not final-torque yet.
- 7Install driver-side new linkRepeat the install on the driver side. Confirm the sway bar is centered and not preloaded — both links should reach their mounts without forcing the bar sideways. If the bar is offset, loosen the sway bar bracket bolts to allow it to recenter, then retorque the brackets.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 8Final torque sway bar linksTorque the link's body fastener (where the link bolts through to the control arm/sway bar mounting) to the Sway Bar Link spec. Torque the link end nuts (on the studded ends, where applicable) to the Sway Bar Link Nuts spec, holding the stud with a hex key so the stud does not spin. Use the spec that matches the fastener type your replacement link uses — through-bolt vs studded end.⚠Do not overtighten. Roadster links are small and the studs will twist off well before reaching higher truck-style suspension torques.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify no tools, rags, or hardware remain in the wheel well.
- Reinstall both front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the Wheel Lug Nuts specification.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative).
- Cycle the ignition/key and confirm normal vehicle wake-up; no suspension-related fault is expected from this job, but verify no warning lights remain illuminated.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground and at normal ride height, gently rock the vehicle side-to-side and listen for any clunks from the front suspension — properly installed links should be silent.
- Visually confirm both links are seated with washers in correct orientation and that the sway bar is centered (equal exposure of bar past each bracket).
- Test drive at low speed first, then perform a gentle slalom or lane-change maneuver. The car should feel symmetrical with no clunking over bumps.
- Recheck both link fasteners after the first 50-100 miles, as new bushings can settle.
- Note: this job is not part of any Tesla scheduled service interval, but while the front is apart it's a good time to verify brake fluid age (Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years) and check tire wear (Tesla recommends rotation every ~6,250 mi).