Replace the tie rod assembly on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster is built on the Lotus Elise platform — the steering rack, tie rods, and front suspension hardware are largely Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Tie rod assembly (inner + outer, or as supplied) × 1 — OEM specification for 2012 Tesla Roadster — Lotus Elise-based steering rack
• Castle nut / tie rod end nut × 1 — OEM specification — replace if reused threads are damaged
• Cotter pin × 1 — OEM specification — always replace, never reuse
• Tie rod lock nut (jam nut) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P (or in gear if manual transmission equipped), engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk / forward compartment area — refer to owner documentation for exact access.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle and support on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points (the Roadster has very specific composite-safe lift points — do NOT lift on the floor pan or sills).
8. Remove front wheels.
9. Determine whether you are replacing the inner tie rod, outer tie rod end, or the complete assembly, and confirm the replacement part matches the side (left/right) and rack pattern.

Procedure

1. 1

   Record existing tie rod length
   Before disturbing anything, measure and record the exposed thread length between the outer tie rod end jam nut and the inner tie rod, or the overall length from a reference point on the rack to the center of the outer ball stud. This baseline gets you close to original toe and makes the vehicle drivable to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut at outer tie rod end
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end ball stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must be replaced with new. Loosen and remove the castle nut.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin. Always install a new one on reassembly.
3. 3

   Separate outer tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Use a tie rod end puller (preferred) or a pickle fork to separate the tapered ball stud from the steering knuckle. A puller is preferred because it does not damage the boot. If the boot will be reused, do not use a pickle fork.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum upright/knuckle with a hammer. The Roadster uses lightweight aluminum suspension components (Lotus-derived) that can crack.
4. 4

   Loosen the jam (lock) nut
   Loosen the tie rod lock (jam) nut at the inner end of the outer tie rod end. Do not fully remove it yet if you intend to count threads; instead, mark the position with paint or a marker and count rotations as you unscrew the outer end.
5. 5

   Remove the outer tie rod end (if replacing outer only)
   Unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod, counting and recording the number of turns required to remove it. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting for the trip to the alignment shop.
6. 6

   Remove inner tie rod (if replacing complete assembly)
   If replacing the complete tie rod assembly, pull back or remove the rack boot clamp and the rack boot to expose the inner tie rod-to-rack joint. Use the manufacturer-specified inner tie rod tool (crowfoot or dedicated inner tie rod socket) to unthread the inner tie rod from the steering rack. Hold the rack stationary — do not allow the rack shaft to rotate or be damaged.
   ⚠Do not grip the steering rack shaft with pliers or vice grips — this will damage the rack. Use the proper inner tie rod tool.
7. 7

   Inspect rack, boot, and knuckle taper
   With the tie rod removed, inspect the rack boot for tears, the rack threads for damage, and the steering knuckle taper for wear or ovalization. Replace the rack boot if torn. The Roadster has electric power steering assistance per the data sheet (no hydraulic fluid), so there is no power steering fluid to manage at this joint.
8. 8

   Install new inner tie rod (if applicable)
   Thread the new inner tie rod into the rack by hand, then torque to the OEM specification using the proper inner tie rod tool. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the Roadster inner tie rod-to-rack torque. Reinstall the rack boot and clamp.
9. 9

   Install jam nut and outer tie rod end
   Thread the jam (lock) nut onto the inner tie rod, then thread the outer tie rod end on by the same number of turns recorded during removal so the assembly approximates original length. Snug the jam nut by hand for now — final torque comes after alignment.
10. 10

    Reconnect outer tie rod end to steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod end ball stud into the steering knuckle. Install the new castle nut and torque to spec, then continue tightening (do not loosen) only as far as necessary to align the slot in the nut with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
    ⚠If the slot does not align at spec torque, tighten further to the next slot — never back off to align.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount the front wheels and install lug nuts hand-tight. Lower vehicle to the ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Pre-alignment toe check
    Reconnect the 12V battery. Center the steering wheel and visually verify the wheels track straight. Drive slowly (low speed, short distance) only as far as needed to reach an alignment rack. Do NOT drive the car at highway speeds with un-aligned toe.
    ⚠️Driving with incorrect toe can cause unpredictable handling and rapid tire destruction. Go directly to alignment.
13. 13

    Perform four-wheel alignment and final torque jam nut
    Have a four-wheel alignment performed. After toe is set to specification, hold the outer tie rod end stationary and torque the tie rod lock (jam) nut to final spec.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm new cotter pin is installed and legs bent over at the outer tie rod end.
2. Confirm rack boot is correctly seated and clamped if it was disturbed.
3. Confirm jam nut is at final torque AFTER alignment.
4. Confirm wheel lug nuts are at final torque with vehicle on the ground.
5. Reconnect 12V battery (if not already reconnected) and verify no warning lights on the instrument cluster.

Verification

• Test drive at low speed first: confirm steering wheel is centered when driving straight, no pulling, and no clunking from the front end over bumps.
• Visually re-inspect tie rod end, jam nut, and cotter pin after first drive.
• Re-check wheel lug torque after approximately 50 miles (standard practice after wheel removal).
• Confirm alignment printout is on file and toe values are within Tesla Roadster specification.
• While the vehicle is up, this is also a good time to inspect the front suspension ball joints, control arm bushings, and brake pad thickness — the Roadster's Lotus-derived front suspension wears similarly to an Elise and these items are commonly serviced together. Also note that DOT 3 brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years per Tesla's published guidance regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle