Replace the inner tie rod end on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note: the Roadster uses a Lotus Elise-derived chassis and steering rack, so many parts and procedures are shared with the Lotus rather than being Tesla-specific. A wheel alignment is required after this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end (manufacturer-specified for 2012 Tesla Roadster / Lotus-pattern rack) × 1 — OEM specification — verify against VIN
• Cotter pin for outer tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM specification
• Steering rack boot clamps (if damaged on removal) × 2 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P (if equipped), engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery before lifting the vehicle. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front service compartment — refer to the architecture notes and owner documentation for exact location.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points (the Roadster has specific reinforced jack pads — improper lifting can damage the composite/aluminum chassis or HV pack). Support on jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Center the steering wheel and lock it in place (steering wheel lock or seatbelt loop) so the rack does not move during disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Record outer tie rod position
   Before any disassembly, measure and record the exposed thread length on the outer tie rod end, or count threads from the lock nut to the end of the inner tie rod shaft. This preserves a baseline toe setting and minimizes alignment drift after reassembly. Note: a full alignment is still required afterward.
2. 2

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut, then loosen and remove the castle nut. Separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle using a tie rod puller. Avoid striking the knuckle directly — the Roadster's suspension uprights are aluminum and can crack.
   ⚠Do not reuse the cotter pin. A new cotter pin is required on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Loosen the outer tie rod lock nut
   Loosen (do not remove) the lock nut between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod shaft. This will allow the outer tie rod to be unthreaded once the inner is exposed. Mark the lock nut position as a secondary reference for thread count.
4. 4

   Unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod
   Counting and recording every full turn, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record the exact turn count — this is your most accurate toe baseline.
5. 5

   Release the steering rack boot
   Loosen and slide back the outer (large) clamp and the inner (small) clamp on the steering rack bellows boot on the affected side. Slide the boot inboard along the rack housing or off the rack as needed to expose the inner tie rod-to-rack joint. Inspect the boot for tears; replace if damaged.
   ℹ️If the boot is torn or contaminated, replace it now — access will not be easier later.
6. 6

   Remove the inner tie rod from the rack
   Hold the steering rack bar with a soft-jaw wrench on the manufacturer-specified flats — do NOT clamp on the rack teeth or finished bar surface, as this will destroy the rack. Using an inner tie rod removal tool (crowsfoot-style socket sized to the inner tie rod's wrench flats), break loose and unthread the inner tie rod end. Expect significant torque to break free; some units use thread-locker or a staking feature.
   ⚠️Damaging the rack bar surface or teeth requires a complete steering rack replacement. Hold ONLY on the designated flats.
7. 7

   Inspect rack threads and bar
   Inspect the rack bar threads, the rack bar surface where the boot rides, and the rack teeth area for damage, contamination, or wear. Wipe clean. If the threads are damaged, the rack must be replaced — do not attempt to chase or repair them.
8. 8

   Install the new inner tie rod end
   Apply thread-locker only if specified by the replacement part's manufacturer. Thread the new inner tie rod end into the rack bar by hand to verify clean engagement, then torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla/Lotus service manual for the exact inner tie rod-to-rack torque, as this value is not in the verified torque list for this job. Do NOT guess this torque; under-torque will allow the joint to back out, over-torque can crack the rack bar.
   ⚠The inner tie rod-to-rack torque is not in the verified data set. Look it up in the Roadster/Elise service manual before final tightening.
9. 9

   Re-seat and re-clamp the rack boot
   Slide the bellows boot back into its grooves on the rack housing and on the inner tie rod. Ensure the boot is not twisted and that any breather features are unobstructed. Install new clamps if the originals are crimp-style or damaged.
10. 10

    Reinstall the outer tie rod end
    Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft, then thread the outer tie rod end back on, using your recorded turn count from Step 4 to return it to its original position. Snug the lock nut by hand only at this stage — final torque happens after alignment.
11. 11

    Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin; if the castle slots do not align with the stud hole, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts by hand.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Cycle the steering lock-to-lock (with the vehicle on the ground or on alignment plates) to verify smooth operation and no binding.
6. Drive the vehicle ONLY a short distance to an alignment rack — do not return to normal service until alignment is complete.
7. After alignment, torque the outer tie rod lock nut to specification while holding the outer tie rod to prevent it from rotating.

Verification

• Confirm steering operates smoothly lock-to-lock with no clicking, binding, or knocking from the rack area.
• Visually verify the rack boot is properly seated on both ends, undamaged, and not twisted — a torn boot will quickly destroy the new joint.
• Confirm the new cotter pin is installed in the outer tie rod castle nut and its tails are bent over.
• Have a four-wheel alignment performed; verify front toe is within Tesla Roadster specification. Only after alignment, torque the Tie Rod Lock Nut.
• Test drive: confirm the steering wheel is centered when driving straight, no pull, and no vibration. Re-inspect the joint and boot after the test drive.
• Note for the owner: the Roadster's brake fluid should be serviced every 2 years regardless of mileage, and the transmission/gearbox oil is NOT lifetime — both are easy to overlook on a low-mileage vintage Roadster and worth checking while the vehicle is in the shop.

More procedures for this vehicle