Replace the outer tie rod end on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Because the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, the front suspension and steering tie rod hardware is Lotus-derived rather than Tesla-specific. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end (Lotus Elise/Exige-pattern, Roadster-applicable) × 1 — OEM-specification outer tie rod end for 2012 Tesla Roadster — confirm against VIN
• Cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P (or in gear for manual-transmission early Roadsters), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery before working under the vehicle. See architecture notes — the Roadster's 12V auxiliary battery is separate from the HV pack.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using only OEM-designated jacking points on the bonded aluminum chassis, and support on rated jack stands.
8. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
9. Turn the steering wheel to expose the tie rod end as needed for access.

Procedure

1. 1

   Record current tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, mark the threads of the inner tie rod with a paint marker at the face of the lock nut, OR measure the exposed thread length with calipers. This gives you a baseline so the new tie rod end goes back at approximately the same toe setting — reducing the risk of severe misalignment when driving to the alignment shop.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft with a wrench to prevent it from turning, and break loose the lock nut between the inner tie rod and the outer tie rod end. Do not yet unthread the outer tie rod end — just free the lock nut so it spins freely on the threads.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin — it must not be reused. Loosen the castle nut, but leave it threaded onto the ball stud by a few turns to protect the threads and to prevent the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the taper releases.
   ⚠Never reuse a cotter pin on a steering component.
4. 4

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Use a screw-type tie rod / ball joint separator to break the tapered ball stud free from the steering knuckle. A pickle fork can be used in a pinch but will destroy the boot of the old tie rod end (acceptable since it is being replaced); avoid pickle-forking near the knuckle to prevent damage. Once the taper pops free, fully remove the castle nut and lift the ball stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum upright/knuckle with a hammer — use a proper separator tool.
5. 5

   Count and unthread the outer tie rod end
   Holding the inner tie rod shaft to keep it from rotating, unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Count the number of full rotations as you remove it — record this number. This is your second alignment reference in addition to the paint mark or caliper measurement.
6. 6

   Compare old and new parts
   Place the old and new outer tie rod ends side by side. Confirm thread direction, thread pitch, ball stud taper, stud length, and overall length match. Roadster components are Lotus-pattern — do not assume a part labeled 'Tesla Roadster' is correct without physical comparison.
   ℹ️If the new part does not match the old part exactly, STOP and verify the correct part before installation.
7. 7

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the lock nut onto the inner tie rod shaft (if it was removed) to roughly its original position. Then thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of rotations you counted during removal. Bring the lock nut up against the new tie rod end but do NOT torque it yet — final torque happens after alignment.
8. 8

   Seat the ball stud into the steering knuckle
   Insert the new tie rod end's ball stud into the tapered hole in the steering knuckle. Install a new castle nut (or the original nut if it is in good condition and reuse is permitted) and tighten to specification. Continue tightening only as needed to align the next castellation with the cotter pin hole — never back off to align.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball stud. Bend the legs over to lock the nut. Confirm the pin is fully seated and cannot back out.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
5. Drive carefully and at low speed directly to an alignment shop — do not drive at highway speeds with an un-aligned tie rod.
6. After the four-wheel alignment is performed, torque the tie rod lock nut to specification while holding the inner tie rod shaft to prevent rotation.
7. Note: if the alignment shop performs the lock nut torque themselves, confirm with them that it was done to OEM specification.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground, grasp the front tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and push/pull — there should be zero play at the tie rod end.
• Visually inspect the new tie rod end boot for proper seating and no tears.
• Confirm the new cotter pin is installed and bent over.
• Confirm a four-wheel alignment has been completed and that toe is within Tesla Roadster specification — driving without alignment will rapidly destroy front tires.
• Test drive at low speed first: confirm the steering wheel is centered, there is no pulling, and no clunking from the front end over bumps.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after approximately 50 miles of driving.
• While the vehicle is on a lift for alignment, take the opportunity to inspect Roadster items often missed: brake fluid condition (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years), transmission/gearbox oil level, and 12V battery health — early Roadsters are now well past typical 12V service life.

More procedures for this vehicle