Replace both outer tie rod ends on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its front suspension and steering rack with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so most parts and procedures follow Lotus service practice rather than later Tesla architecture.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Lotus Elise/Roadster spec) × 2 — OEM Lotus/Tesla Roadster outer tie rod end — confirm with VIN
• Castle nut cotter pins × 2 — Manufacturer-specified cotter pin matching castle nut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in 1st gear (manual) or P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front compartment — disconnect the negative terminal first.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
7. Raise the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Remove both front wheels.
9. Turn the steering wheel to center and note the position; do not allow the wheel to rotate while the tie rods are disconnected (steering is unassisted but the column should be kept centered).

Procedure

1. 1

   Document existing tie rod length
   Before loosening anything, measure the exposed thread length on each inner tie rod between the rack boot clamp and the lock nut, and record both measurements. Also mark the lock nut position on the inner tie rod shaft with a paint marker or scribe. This preserves a near-baseline toe setting until the alignment shop adjusts it.
2. 2

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod with a wrench on its flats and break loose the lock nut where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner. Apply penetrating oil if seized. Do not yet back the lock nut off — only break it free.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the steering knuckle
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Discard the cotter pin. Remove the castle nut.
   ⚠Discard the cotter pin — never reuse.
4. 4

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the knuckle
   Use a screw-type tie rod separator to press the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle. A pickle fork can be used but may damage the boot — only acceptable if you are replacing the part anyway. Do not strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a hammer.
   ⚠The Roadster steering knuckle/upright is aluminum. Hammer blows can crack it.
5. 5

   Count rotations and unthread the outer tie rod end
   Counting and recording the exact number of turns, unthread the old outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record the count for the driver and passenger sides separately. This gives a starting toe close to original.
6. 6

   Install the new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft, using the same number of turns recorded in the previous step. Confirm the exposed-thread measurement matches the pre-removal measurement within ~1 mm. Snug the lock nut by hand against the new tie rod end — final torque comes after alignment.
7. 7

   Reconnect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle
   Insert the tapered stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification. If the castellations don't align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs over.
   ⚠Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole — never back off.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Repeat for the opposite side
   Perform steps 1 through 7 on the other side of the vehicle, using the side-specific measurements and turn counts you recorded.
9. 9

   Preliminary lock nut snug
   Snug both tie rod lock nuts so the assemblies will not rotate during the drive to the alignment shop, but do NOT apply final torque yet. Final torque is applied after the alignment technician sets toe.
   ℹ️Final lock nut torque is applied AFTER alignment — see reassembly.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the front lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
4. Reconnect the 12V battery (positive first, then negative).
5. Drive carefully and directly to an alignment shop — toe is unverified.
6. After the alignment is completed and the technician has set final toe, hold the inner tie rod and torque the tie rod lock nut on each side to specification.
7. Confirm both new cotter pins are installed and bent over.

Verification

• With the vehicle on the ground and steering wheel centered, both front wheels should point straight ahead with no visible toe-in or toe-out by eye.
• Have a 4-wheel alignment performed and verify front toe and thrust angle are within Lotus/Tesla Roadster spec — this is mandatory after tie rod replacement.
• Test drive: vehicle should track straight with hands lightly on the wheel, no pull, and no clunking from the front end over bumps.
• Re-check both castle nut cotter pins are installed and the lock nuts are at final torque after alignment.
• While under the car, take the opportunity to inspect the steering rack boots, ball joints, and lower control arm bushings — these are wear items shared with the Lotus Elise and are commonly tired on cars of this age.

More procedures for this vehicle