Replace the rear trailing arm (toe link/upper link) bushing on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note: the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so much of the rear suspension hardware is Lotus-sourced rather than Tesla-specific.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Trailing arm bushing (Roadster/Lotus-spec) × 1 — OEM or equivalent — verify against arm casting; Lotus Elise/Exige rear suspension bushings are commonly cross-referenced
• Replacement cotter pins (if any castellated nuts are disturbed) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified size
• Self-locking nuts (if disturbed) × 2 — Replace any single-use prevailing-torque nuts per OEM practice

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed/automatic-equipped early cars), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (Roadster 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area; refer to the Roadster Owner's Manual for exact access).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle ONLY at the manufacturer-designated jacking points (the Roadster's aluminum tub is easily damaged) and support on jack stands.
8. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
9. Inspect the trailing arm, control arms, and bushings for additional wear before committing to the job — if multiple bushings are deteriorated, plan to address them together.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document suspension geometry
   Before disturbing anything, mark the position of any eccentric/cam alignment bolts on the rear suspension with a paint pen. Photograph the trailing arm orientation and bushing flange direction. This will help return the car close to its prior alignment, although a professional alignment is still required afterward.
2. 2

   Penetrate fasteners
   Apply penetrating oil to the trailing arm pivot bolt(s), any sway bar link fasteners that interfere, and adjacent suspension hardware. Allow time to soak. Roadster suspension hardware is often seized due to dissimilar-metal corrosion (steel fasteners in aluminum brackets).
   ⚠Do not heat fasteners with an open flame near the chassis — the bonded aluminum tub and any nearby HV cabling are heat-sensitive.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar link (if it interferes)
   If the rear sway bar end link blocks trailing arm removal, disconnect it at the lower mount. Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the rear hub assembly
   Place a jack with a wood block under the rear upright/hub carrier to support it. This prevents the half-shaft, brake line, and ABS sensor wiring from carrying load when the trailing arm is unbolted.
   ⚠Do not let the upright hang on the brake hose or ABS harness.
5. 5

   Disconnect trailing arm at the upright
   Remove the fastener securing the trailing arm to the rear upright/hub carrier. Note the orientation of any washers, spacers, or shims and keep them in order. If a ball joint is integrated into this connection, remove the cotter pin and castellated nut and separate the joint using a proper ball joint separator (do not hammer the upright).
   ⚠Aluminum upright — do not strike with a steel hammer to free a stuck ball joint. Use a separator tool.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Disconnect trailing arm at the chassis bracket
   Remove the trailing arm pivot bolt(s) at the chassis-side bracket. Support the arm as the bolt is withdrawn. If the bolt is seized in the bushing inner sleeve, work it out gently with penetrating oil and a slide hammer or drift — do not pry against the aluminum chassis bracket.
   ⚠️Verify no orange HV cable is routed against or through the bracket area before applying force.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the trailing arm
   Withdraw the trailing arm from the vehicle. Inspect the arm itself for cracks, corrosion, or elongation of the bushing bore — Roadster arms are not easily sourced, and damage may require sourcing a Lotus-equivalent unit.
8. 8

   Press out the old bushing
   Using a hydraulic press and appropriately sized receiver/driver cups, press the old bushing out of the trailing arm. Keep the arm square in the press. Do NOT use a torch to burn out the rubber against an aluminum arm — this can anneal or distort the casting.
   ⚠If the arm has any aluminum content, avoid heat-based bushing removal.
9. 9

   Clean and inspect the bore
   Wire-brush the bushing bore. Inspect for cracks radiating from the bore, ovality, or galling. Apply a thin film of the bushing manufacturer's specified lubricant (typically a silicone-based or soapy lubricant — never petroleum grease on rubber bushings).
10. 10

    Press in the new bushing
    Orient the new bushing per the manufacturer's reference marks (voids/flats often must align with the load axis). Press it in squarely until it is fully seated to the specified depth or flange contact. Do not hammer the bushing in.
    ⚠Incorrect bushing clocking will cause premature failure and altered rear toe behavior.
11. 11

    Reinstall the trailing arm to the chassis
    Position the trailing arm in the chassis bracket and install the pivot bolt finger-tight. Do NOT final-torque yet — the bushing must be clamped at ride height to avoid pre-loading the rubber.
12. 12

    Reconnect the trailing arm to the upright
    Reattach the trailing arm to the upright/hub carrier. If a ball joint is involved, install a NEW cotter pin after torquing the castellated nut. Reconnect the sway bar link if it was disconnected, holding the stud with an Allen key.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the suspension is loaded at normal ride height (wheels on the ground or on drive-on ramps/alignment stands).
3. With the suspension loaded, final-torque the trailing arm chassis-side pivot bolt to the Control Arm Bolts spec. Torquing under load is critical so the new bushing is not preloaded in twist.
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to the Wheel Lug Nuts spec.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Confirm no orange HV cabling, brake lines, or ABS wiring was pinched, rubbed, or rerouted incorrectly during the repair.

Verification

• Visually verify the trailing arm sits centered in its bracket with no bushing flange deformation.
• Bounce-test the rear suspension and listen for clunks; a properly clamped bushing should be silent.
• Take the vehicle to a four-wheel alignment shop familiar with the Tesla Roadster / Lotus Elise platform — rear toe and thrust angle MUST be checked and set after any trailing arm work.
• Road test at low speed first, checking for tracking pull, rear-end wandering, or unusual tire scrub.
• Re-inspect torque on the trailing arm pivot bolt after the first 100–200 miles, since suspension fasteners can settle on this chassis.
• Note: This job is not on a Tesla scheduled service interval, but while the rear is apart, inspect rear brake pad/rotor wear and verify the gearbox oil condition — Tesla now recommends drive unit / gearbox fluid service rather than treating it as 'lifetime,' and the Roadster's gearbox oil (10 qt, Tesla-spec) should be inspected periodically.

More procedures for this vehicle