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2012 TESLA ROADSTER

Single Motor RWDRWDAUTOMATICev
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suspension

Upper Control Arm - Front

for 2012 Tesla Roadster Single Motor RWD · RWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.5 h
Tools
10
Steps
11

Replace the front upper control arm on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its front suspension architecture with the Lotus Elise/Exige — most front suspension components are Lotus-sourced, not Tesla-specific.

Warnings

⚠️The Roadster has a high-voltage battery pack mounted behind the cabin. Do not pierce, cut, or contact any orange HV cabling under any circumstance.
The Roadster uses an aluminum/composite chassis tub (Lotus-derived). Do not strike chassis members with a hammer and do not lift on non-reinforced points — use only the manufacturer-specified jacking pads.
Control arm bolts are CRITICAL fasteners and must be final-torqued at ride height (vehicle weight on the wheels) to avoid premature bushing failure.
A wheel alignment is required after this job. Camber and caster will change.
ℹ️Roadster front suspension parts are largely Lotus Elise/Exige hardware. Do not assume Tesla part availability — source through Lotus channels or Roadster specialists if Tesla supply is exhausted.

Tools required

Metric socket set (10-19mm)Essential
Metric combination wrenchesEssential
Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator / pickle forkEssential
Cotter pin pliers / needle-nose pliersEssential
Floor jack and jack stands rated for vehicle weightEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Allen/hex key set (for holding ball joint studs)
Penetrating oil
Drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly support

Parts

  • Front Upper Control Arm Assembly (Roadster/Lotus-pattern) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified upper control arm — verify against VIN; many Lotus Elise/Exige UCAs are dimensionally compatible but confirm before ordering
  • Cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
  • Control arm pivot bolts/nuts (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM-spec hardware — replace if any sign of stretch or corrosion

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place in P (or in gear if manual transmission equipped), engage parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V (APS/auxiliary) battery is accessed per the Roadster Owner's/Service Manual — follow that procedure.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Chock the rear wheels.
  7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
  8. Raise the front of the vehicle using only the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for the load.
  9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
  10. Inspect the area for any orange HV cabling or HV components before proceeding — none should be present in the front suspension area, but verify.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and document
    With the wheel removed, photograph the upper control arm, ball joint orientation, any shims/washers, and bolt orientations. Note any spacers or alignment shims at the inboard pivots — these must be reinstalled in the same position and orientation.
  2. 2
    Support the lower control arm / hub
    Place a floor jack with a soft pad under the lower control arm to support the spring/damper load. The Roadster uses a coilover strut — supporting the lower arm prevents the assembly from dropping when the upper ball joint is released.
    Do not allow the hub/upright to hang unsupported — it will stress the brake hose and lower ball joint.
  3. 3
    Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut
    Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Loosen and remove the castle nut. If the stud spins, hold it with the appropriate hex key on the end of the stud.
    ℹ️Always replace the cotter pin with a new one on reassembly — never reuse.
  4. 4
    Separate the upper ball joint from the upright
    Use a proper ball joint separator to release the upper ball joint stud from the upright. Avoid pickle-fork tools if you intend to reuse the ball joint, as they can damage the boot.
    Do not strike the aluminum upright with a hammer. Use the separator tool only.
  5. 5
    Disconnect any attached components
    If a brake hose bracket, ABS sensor wire, or other component is fastened to the upper control arm, release it now and support it so it is not strained when the arm is removed.
  6. 6
    Remove the inboard pivot bolts
    Remove the two inboard control arm pivot bolts/nuts that secure the upper control arm to the chassis. Capture and label any alignment shims, washers, or spacers in the order and orientation they were installed.
    Shim location and stack order directly affect alignment. Reinstall identically or plan for a full alignment.
  7. 7
    Remove the upper control arm
    Withdraw the upper control arm from the chassis. Compare the new arm side-by-side to the old arm to confirm correct part, bushing orientation, and ball joint position before installing.
  8. 8
    Install the new upper control arm
    Position the new upper control arm at the chassis pivots. Reinstall the original (or new) shims and washers in their documented order. Hand-thread the inboard pivot bolts — do not final-torque yet.
  9. 9
    Reconnect the upper ball joint
    Insert the upper ball joint stud into the upright. Install the castle nut and torque to specification, then advance the nut (do not back off) to align with the cotter pin hole. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
    Never back off a castle nut to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further within spec tolerance.
    Torque spec
    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Reattach ancillary brackets
    Reattach any brake hose brackets, ABS wiring clips, or other items removed from the control arm. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Roadster Service Manual.
  11. 11
    Snug pivot bolts, then load suspension before final torque
    Snug the inboard pivot bolts so the arm is captured but the bushings can still rotate. Lower the vehicle so the full weight is on the wheels (or use drive-on ramps / load the suspension to ride height). Then final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolts.
    Torquing rubber-bushed control arm bolts at full droop will pre-load the bushings and dramatically shorten their life.
    Torque spec
    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
  2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  4. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  5. Cycle the ignition and confirm no warning lights related to ABS or stability control.
  6. Have the vehicle professionally aligned — front camber and caster will have shifted.

Verification

  • Confirm the new cotter pin is installed at the upper ball joint and legs are properly bent.
  • Verify no play at the upper ball joint by rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock positions with the suspension loaded.
  • Visually confirm both inboard pivot bolts are fully seated and torqued (paint-mark them as a torque witness).
  • Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks, and confirm the steering tracks straight.
  • Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — do not delay; incorrect alignment will rapidly destroy Roadster front tires.
  • While the vehicle is up, take the opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and inspect the gearbox oil if service interval is approaching — the Roadster's single-speed/manual gearbox uses 75W-90 GL-5 gear oil.

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