Replace the rear upper control arm on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. Note that the Roadster shares its chassis with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so many suspension components and procedures follow Lotus service practice rather than typical Tesla.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear upper control arm assembly (Roadster/Lotus-spec) × 1 — OEM Tesla Roadster rear upper control arm — verify against VIN; Lotus Elise/Exige equivalents may differ
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM specification
• Control arm pivot bolt hardware (if specified single-use) × 1 — Reuse only if OEM permits — refer to Tesla Roadster Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place transmission in gear (or P on 2-speed early cars), and engage the parking brake. Chock the front wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2012 Roadster the 12V auxiliary battery is located in the front trunk area — disconnect the negative terminal first and isolate it.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal. The Roadster's HV pack runs through the center tunnel and behind the seats.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
7. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified lift points (Roadster lift points are limited — incorrect jacking can damage the bonded chassis). Support on jack stands.
8. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
9. Photograph the upper control arm, shim stack, and any alignment marks before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the rear upper control arm, ball joint, bushings, and surrounding hardware. Note the orientation of any camber/toe shims at the inboard mount and record the stack on each side of the bracket. Look for orange HV cabling routed nearby — if any is in your work area, reroute your work plan, do not move the cable.
   ⚠️If orange HV cable is routed through or near the upper control arm bracket, STOP. Do not proceed without Tesla-certified guidance.
2. 2

   Support the rear hub assembly
   Place a floor jack with a rubber pad under the rear lower control arm or hub carrier to support the upright once the upper arm is disconnected. Do not allow the upright to hang on the brake hose or any wiring (ABS sensor, etc.).
3. 3

   Disconnect ABS sensor harness clips (if routed on the upper arm)
   If the ABS wheel speed sensor harness or any clips are secured to the upper control arm, release them carefully so the arm can be removed without straining the harness.
4. 4

   Remove the cotter pin and ball joint castle nut
   Cut and discard the cotter pin at the upper ball joint. Loosen and remove the castle nut from the ball joint stud. The cotter pin must be replaced with a new one on reassembly.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Separate the upper ball joint from the upright
   Using the manufacturer-specified separator tool, release the ball joint taper from the upright. Avoid striking the upright or chassis with a hammer — the Roadster's bonded aluminum structure is not tolerant of impact loads. Once free, support the upright so it does not fall outward.
   ⚠Do not pry against the HV pack enclosure or any orange cabling for leverage.
6. 6

   Note shim stack and remove inboard pivot hardware
   Carefully count and label the alignment shims at the inboard mount(s) of the upper control arm. Remove the inboard pivot bolt(s), keeping shims in their original order and orientation. This preserves a near-baseline alignment until a proper rack alignment is performed.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Remove the upper control arm
   Withdraw the upper control arm from the chassis bracket. Inspect the bracket and bushing bores for damage, corrosion, or elongation. Compare the new arm to the old one to confirm correct part before installation.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm
   Position the new control arm into the inboard bracket, reinstalling the shim stack in its original order and orientation. Hand-thread the inboard pivot bolt(s) — do not final-torque yet.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reconnect the ball joint to the upright
   Seat the ball joint stud into the upright and install the castle nut. Tighten to the verified ball joint nut torque. If the slot does not align with the cotter pin hole at spec, tighten further (never loosen) until the next slot aligns. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per standard practice.
   ⚠Never back the castle nut off to align the cotter pin slot — only tighten further.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach harness clips and verify clearances
    Reinstall the ABS sensor harness clips (if previously removed) and verify the new arm has no interference with the brake hose, harness, sway bar, or HV components through full suspension travel.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel and snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle so suspension is at ride height with full vehicle weight on the wheels before final torquing the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s). Then torque lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolt with weight on wheels
    With the vehicle at ride height (drive-on ramps or alignment-friendly stands), final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to the verified spec. This prevents preloading the bushings in an off-ride-height position.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal in the front trunk; ensure the terminal is fully tightened and any covers reinstalled.
2. Cycle the ignition and verify no ABS, traction control, or chassis warning lights are present.
3. Confirm that all harness clips, brake hose routing, and sway bar end link clearances are correct.

Verification

• Test drive at low speed in a safe area, listening for clunks or binding from the rear suspension.
• Recheck the inboard pivot bolt and ball joint nut torque after the test drive.
• Inspect the new cotter pin to confirm it is fully seated and bent.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — the Roadster uses shims for rear camber/toe, and even with shim preservation the alignment must be verified on a rack.
• While the rear wheel is off, this is a good opportunity to inspect the rear gearbox/drive unit for leaks; note Tesla now recommends gearbox oil service intervals (initial ~12,500 mi, then 25,000–50,000 mi) rather than treating it as 'lifetime.'

More procedures for this vehicle