Replace a front wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2012 Tesla Roadster. The Roadster shares its front suspension and hub design with the Lotus Elise/Exige, so most parts and procedures follow Lotus service practice rather than later Tesla models.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing/hub assembly (Roadster/Lotus Elise-spec) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front hub assembly for 2012 Tesla Roadster
• Axle/hub nut cotter pin (or replacement stake nut) × 1 — OEM cotter pin per service manual
• Hub mounting bolts (if single-use) × 1 — Replace per OEM specification if specified single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place the transmission in 1st gear (or P on 2-speed/automatic-equipped cars), and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit all doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery (located in the Roadster's front trunk area / forward compartment). See architecture notes — Roadster 12V layout differs from later Tesla models.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Chock the rear wheels.
7. Loosen (but do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts while the car is on the ground.
8. With the brake firmly applied by an assistant, break loose the front axle nut while the wheel is still on the ground. Do not fully remove yet.
9. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands at the manufacturer-specified lift points (Lotus-style chassis pads — do not lift on body panels or suspension arms).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove the front wheel
   Fully remove the lug nuts and pull the front wheel off. Inspect tire wear pattern as a clue to bearing/alignment condition.
2. 2

   Remove the brake caliper
   Unbolt the front brake caliper from its bracket (or unbolt the caliper bracket from the upright, depending on what gives clearance). Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee — do not let it hang by the flexible brake hose. If removing the caliper bracket, note that those bolts are critical.
   ⚠Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
3. 3

   Remove the brake rotor
   Remove any rotor retaining screws if fitted, then slide the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is stuck, tap evenly around the hat with a soft-faced mallet.
4. 4

   Disconnect the ABS sensor
   Locate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the upright. Remove its retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor from its bore. Unclip the harness from any brackets to free the sensor away from the work area.
   ⚠Do not pull on the ABS sensor cable — pull on the sensor body. Damaged sensors trigger ABS/traction faults.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the axle/hub nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin (or remove the stake nut if equipped). Fully remove the axle nut and the washer behind it. Discard the cotter pin — it is a single-use item.
6. 6

   Separate the CV/driveshaft from the hub
   Push the CV stub axle inward through the hub. If it is stuck, tap gently with a soft-faced mallet on the threaded end (protect the threads with the nut threaded on flush, or use a brass drift). Support the outer CV joint so it does not hang on the inner joint.
   ⚠Avoid over-extending the inner CV joint — excessive plunge can damage the joint or boot.
7. 7

   Remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly from the upright
   From the rear of the upright, remove the wheel bearing hub mounting bolts. Withdraw the hub assembly from the upright. If corroded in place, use a puller or carefully tap from behind with a soft-faced mallet; do not pry against the aluminum upright.
   ⚠The Roadster's upright is aluminum (Lotus-derived). Damage from prying or hammer strikes can require an expensive upright replacement.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the upright
   Clean the hub mating face and bolt holes in the upright. Inspect for cracks, elongated bolt holes, corrosion, or contact damage. Inspect the CV stub splines for wear. Replace any damaged parts before reassembly.
9. 9

   Install the new wheel bearing/hub assembly
   Position the new hub on the upright. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub bolts if specified by the manufacturer. Install the bolts and tighten in a star/cross pattern in two passes to the final torque.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the CV stub through the new hub
    Slide the CV stub axle splines through the new hub. Install the washer and a new axle nut (or reuse per service manual). Snug only at this stage — final torque is done with the wheel on the ground.
11. 11

    Reinstall ABS sensor, rotor, and caliper
    Reinstall the ABS sensor into its bore and torque its retaining bolt. Install the brake rotor onto the new hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket (with threadlocker as noted) and caliper. Confirm pads are seated and the rotor spins freely with normal pad drag only.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final-torque the axle nut and install new cotter pin
    Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle so the tire bears the load (or have an assistant firmly hold the brake). Final-torque the axle nut to specification, then install a new cotter pin (or properly stake the nut if a stake nut is used). If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten slightly further to the next slot — never back off.
    ⚠️An under-torqued or unsecured axle nut can allow the hub to walk off the CV stub, causing loss of wheel control.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Torque the wheel lug nuts
    Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V battery.
2. Allow the vehicle systems to wake; verify no ABS, traction, or stability fault lights remain after a short drive.
3. Pump the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the pads against the rotor.
4. Re-check wheel lug nut torque after the first 50 miles.

Verification

• Spin the wheel by hand (off the ground) and listen for grinding, roughness, or rumble — a new bearing should spin smoothly with only light brake-pad drag.
• Check for any axial play by rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock — there should be no perceptible movement at the bearing.
• Test drive at low speed first, then highway speed: listen for bearing hum that changes with cornering load, which would indicate an installation issue.
• Confirm ABS warning lamp is off after the first drive cycle — if it remains on, the wheel speed sensor may be unseated or damaged.
• While the car is in the shop, note Tesla's service intervals that may be due: brake fluid replacement every 2 years, and on Roadster the gearbox oil should be inspected per the Roadster Service Manual (this car has a true gearbox, unlike later Teslas).

More procedures for this vehicle